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Post by Clinton Cool on Nov 20, 2016 20:32:34 GMT
I've had my 27TMX for the best part of 2 weeks now. I've charged it every day either fully or partially. A few questions for the experts:
1/ I've not taken it below 70% yet, 12.4V. Is this OK, or would I get better performance or longevity by allowing it to drop to 12.2?
2/ However long I charge it for I can't seem to get the tail current to be less than 1.5A. I had the genny running for 5 hours today, it wouldn't go below that. Being a 105AH battery I would have expected it to be less than this. Anything to be concerned about?
3/ I can equalise/ disulphate at 15.5V with my generator and battery charger. Should I do this routinely and if so how often, and for how long? Should the batteries be fully charged before starting desulphation?
Cheers.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 20, 2016 20:41:42 GMT
Must say for some reason (possibly beer) I found the title "managing my trojan" very funny  |
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Post by tomsk on Nov 20, 2016 20:51:17 GMT
I will have a stab at this though having ABSOLUTELY NO experience or qualifications in the field:-
1)Perhaps so, opinions differ and the subject is both contentious and divisive.
2) Maybe, as I understand it 'fully charged' is a contentious and emotive term usually entailing the tail charge thingy to reduce to 1% of total and not reduce further for at least one hour, or something.
3) Equalisation charges should not be done too often and only with wet cell batteries that can be topped-up. The batteries should be fully charged I think. I'm almost definitely wrong about this but everyone is entitled to an opinion apparently and this is mine.
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 20, 2016 20:54:49 GMT
1/ If you analyse the cycles vs SoC graph for the T105 you get the best total energy out of the battery by cycling to 40% SoC. However this perhaps doesn't take account of time left in a low SoC when the daily energy usage is low (ie your situation), which might give rise to sulphation. You don't say how long it takes to get down to 70% SoC, but if only 1 day, try leaving it for 2 days.
2/ 5 hours isn't that long I'm afraid! Although 1.5% tail current is a pretty reasonable point to stop charging. If you were to continue for another 5 hours the tail current would come down, but probably not worth it!
3/ Get a hydrometer or refractometer and only equalise if there is more than .030 difference between cells or you are falling significantly short of the 1.277 original gravity (compensated for temperature) when fully charged. You only want to equalise when it's actually necessary, as ultimately it causes plate material shedding. Equalising is done after the batteries are fully charged.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Nov 20, 2016 21:07:18 GMT
Great, thanks! I'm not familiar with refractometers or hydrometers which would you recommend as being best?
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 20, 2016 21:33:37 GMT
Great, thanks! I'm not familiar with refractometers or hydrometers which would you recommend as being best? A hydrometer is like a turkey baster with a float inside. You have to suck up lots of electrolyte, but after taking the reading you squirt it all back again. But I suppose you can leave a few drops inside. You have to store it carefully to prevent getting acid in the wrong place. Also, when taking the reading you have to be careful that the float isn't stuck to the sides. With a refractometer you just put a drop on the slide. The drop can't easily be returned, but then it's just a drop. Personally I find the refractometer much easier. This kind of thing www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glycol-Refractometer-Antifreeze-Fluid-Battery-Engine-Coolant-Tester-Tool-TE397-/262312571282?hash=item3d130c3192:g:bkMAAOSwZetXOp4z |
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Post by Ditchcrawler on Nov 20, 2016 22:31:51 GMT
Great, thanks! I'm not familiar with refractometers or hydrometers which would you recommend as being best? A hydrometer is like a turkey baster with a float inside. You have to suck up lots of electrolyte, but after taking the reading you squirt it all back again. But I suppose you can leave a few drops inside. You have to store it carefully to prevent getting acid in the wrong place. Also, when taking the reading you have to be careful that the float isn't stuck to the sides. With a refractometer you just put a drop on the slide. The drop can't easily be returned, but then it's just a drop. Personally I find the refractometer much easier. This kind of thing www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Glycol-Refractometer-Antifreeze-Fluid-Battery-Engine-Coolant-Tester-Tool-TE397-/262312571282?hash=item3d130c3192:g:bkMAAOSwZetXOp4zI liked the refractometer ones, much easier and faster to use. I must admit I never check my batteries SG. When they no longer have enough capacity for my usage I will change them out. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2016 6:41:35 GMT
Leave it at the gates of Troy.
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Post by JohnV on Nov 21, 2016 8:21:22 GMT
Beware of Greeks bearing gifts !!!
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Post by smileypete on Nov 22, 2016 12:21:19 GMT
I've had my 27TMX for the best part of 2 weeks now. I've charged it every day either fully or partially. A few questions for the experts: 1/ I've not taken it below 70% yet, 12.4V. Is this OK, or would I get better performance or longevity by allowing it to drop to 12.2? For proper traction type batts I don't think there's any worthwhile economic benefit to discharging to 20-30% instead of 50-60%. But of course the lower you take it, the longer it'll take to recharge...2/ However long I charge it for I can't seem to get the tail current to be less than 1.5A. I had the genny running for 5 hours today, it wouldn't go below that. Being a 105AH battery I would have expected it to be less than this. Anything to be concerned about? It's not the absolute level of the tail current that matters, just that it stabilises at a steady low level, usually between 0.5 to 2%. For open/non-sealed batts it can help if the acid is gassing gently at the end of charge, like a glass of half flat coke if the batt is newish. 3/ I can equalise/ disulphate at 15.5V with my generator and battery charger. Should I do this routinely and if so how often, and for how long? Should the batteries be fully charged before starting desulphation? I'd keep an eye on the SGs with a hydrometer, and equalise if they are down more than 0.010 to 0.15 to prior max levels having waited 2 hours after a FULL charge. Or if they diverge by 0.03 at any state of charge. The turkey baster types aren't the most accurate but I'd have thought them fine for a relative measurement on the same batt over time. Yes the batts should be fully charged, but for times sake I'd start EQ once the tail current drops to 3%.Cheers. Answers in red (sorry if it hurts your eyeballs  For more comprehensive answers best have a look at The Battery FAQ (and the websites for Trojan or US Battery): www.batteryfaq.org/jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq9.htm#equalizeAs per usual carefully observe all safety precautions in The Battery FAQ on the above two pages, and in the manuals for the battery, chargers etc. |
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Post by Ditchcrawler on Nov 22, 2016 13:40:24 GMT
I've had my 27TMX for the best part of 2 weeks now. I've charged it every day either fully or partially. A few questions for the experts: 1/ I've not taken it below 70% yet, 12.4V. Is this OK, or would I get better performance or longevity by allowing it to drop to 12.2? For proper traction type batts I don't think there's any worthwhile economic benefit to discharging to 20-30% instead of 50-60%. But of course the lower you take it, the longer it'll take to recharge...2/ However long I charge it for I can't seem to get the tail current to be less than 1.5A. I had the genny running for 5 hours today, it wouldn't go below that. Being a 105AH battery I would have expected it to be less than this. Anything to be concerned about? It's not the absolute level of the tail current that matters, just that it stabilises at a steady low level, usually between 0.5 to 2%. For open/non-sealed batts it can help if the acid is gassing gently at the end of charge, like a glass of half flat coke if the batt is newish.3/ I can equalise/ disulphate at 15.5V with my generator and battery charger. Should I do this routinely and if so how often, and for how long? Should the batteries be fully charged before starting desulphation? I'd keep an eye on the SGs with a hydrometer, and equalise if they are down more than 0.010 to 0.15 to prior max levels having waited 2 hours after a FULL charge. Or if they diverge by 0.03 at any state of charge.
The turkey baster types aren't the most accurate but I'd have thought them fine for a relative measurement on the same batt over time. Yes the batts should be fully charged, but for times sake I'd start EQ once the tail current drops to 3%.Cheers. Answers in red (sorry if it hurts your eyeballs For more comprehensive answers best have a look at The Battery FAQ (and the websites for Trojan or US Battery): www.batteryfaq.org/jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq9.htm#equalizeAs per usual carefully observe all safety precautions in The Battery FAQ on the above two pages, and in the manuals for the battery, chargers etc.I have not been over here for long but I find this reply almost impossible to read with the pinkish red type on a blue background. Is this due to the way my computer is set up or is it the same for all? |
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 22, 2016 13:53:40 GMT
Answers in red (sorry if it hurts your eyeballs For more comprehensive answers best have a look at The Battery FAQ (and the websites for Trojan or US Battery): www.batteryfaq.org/jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq9.htm#equalizeAs per usual carefully observe all safety precautions in The Battery FAQ on the above two pages, and in the manuals for the battery, chargers etc.I have not been over here for long but I find this reply almost impossible to read with the pinkish red type on a blue background. Is this due to the way my computer is set up or is it the same for all? You need to switch to the light skin which gives black text on a white background. Click Profile then Edit Profile then the Settings tab then select 'Light" from the theme dropdown. |
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Post by JohnV on Nov 22, 2016 13:57:09 GMT
Answers in red (sorry if it hurts your eyeballs For more comprehensive answers best have a look at The Battery FAQ (and the websites for Trojan or US Battery): www.batteryfaq.org/jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq9.htm#equalizeAs per usual carefully observe all safety precautions in The Battery FAQ on the above two pages, and in the manuals for the battery, chargers etc.I have not been over here for long but I find this reply almost impossible to read with the pinkish red type on a blue background. Is this due to the way my computer is set up or is it the same for all? Go to profile select edit profile (right hand side) then select settings and scroll down to forum theme (blue is the default) edit to add many prefer the white background but I prefer the blue |
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Post by smileypete on Nov 22, 2016 14:01:13 GMT
Sorry, I've changed it to italics which I hope is better... Anyone know a good highlight colour for the blue backround?
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Post by Ditchcrawler on Nov 22, 2016 14:29:46 GMT
I have not been over here for long but I find this reply almost impossible to read with the pinkish red type on a blue background. Is this due to the way my computer is set up or is it the same for all? You need to switch to the light skin which gives black text on a white background. Click Profile then Edit Profile then the Settings tab then select 'Light" from the theme dropdown. Thanks |
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