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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2018 19:37:42 GMT
Will investigate further...
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2018 19:37:54 GMT
I deleted my post as not relevant
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 26, 2018 19:49:11 GMT
Tone generators are widely available. I have one. However when you get a bunch of wires all taped together the tone ends up appearing everywhere (although it is louder on the ‘real’ one).
Have a look on eBay. They’re cheap.
As previously mentioned, disconnect the power feed end first.
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 26, 2018 19:50:20 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2018 20:24:40 GMT
You can still get ‘tone injectors’ for data cables, can’t see why it wouldn’t work with power cables but you may need to disconnect both ends of the cable or you may find the tone in many cables as it will be coming back via a common earth. The switches on the panel don't seem to do what they should do. If I turn everything on everything works. If I turn some things off at the switch on the panel I'm not sure what I'm turning on or off as the crib sheet doesn't seem to relate to reality. Physically tracing wires would be a major undertaking, isolating everything might be easier - just trying to understand my options. Turn one switch on at a time then check to see what's on! This assumes single pole switches.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Oct 26, 2018 20:30:21 GMT
I seem to have to have to have the freezer on to get the water pump working.... My guess here would be that a previous owner needed a feed for the water pump for some reason, and since the freezer was in continuous use he decided to take it off of that.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2018 20:33:43 GMT
The switches on the panel don't seem to do what they should do. If I turn everything on everything works. If I turn some things off at the switch on the panel I'm not sure what I'm turning on or off as the crib sheet doesn't seem to relate to reality. Physically tracing wires would be a major undertaking, isolating everything might be easier - just trying to understand my options. Turn one switch on at a time then check to see what's on! This assumes single pole switches. Yes tried this and hence the post about trying to work out what was wrong. Don't like having to have a freezer on to also run the water pump....
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Post by Telemachus on Oct 27, 2018 7:22:01 GMT
The problem with a tone generator is that one set of wires is all connected to +12v and the other set of wires is all connected to ground. So unless you disconnect all the wires at the battery end, injecting a tone won’t help any more than just turning switches on one at a time to see what works
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2018 7:42:51 GMT
All sorted now. I remembered where the internal switch for the freezer is..... Still don't like the fact that the freezer switch on the panel needs to be on for the water pump to work but I'll live with it.
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Post by JohnV on Oct 27, 2018 7:47:21 GMT
The problem with a tone generator is that one set of wires is all connected to +12v and the other set of wires is all connected to ground. So unless you disconnect all the wires at the battery end, injecting a tone won’t help any more than just turning switches on one at a time to see what works Oddly, the mains ones do work ..... just not very well (at least providing there is a breaker in the circuit) You can run the probe along the fuseboard ..... all will indicate but the actual one is a little louder. To be honest though, I never found it that useful and it lingered unloved in the toolbox until one day it got squashed. The telephone/data pair checkers were very useful especially when faced by a 10 foot row of punch down terminals in an old fashioned system
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Post by bargemast on Oct 27, 2018 20:18:37 GMT
All sorted now. I remembered where the internal switch for the freezer is..... Still don't like the fact that the freezer switch on the panel needs to be on for the water pump to work but I'll live with it. It would surely not be too difficult for a man with your background in wires to simply install a seperate swith for your freezer, or for your waterpump, so that they'll each have their own feed switch, preferably with their own fuses too. I wish you happy boatwork. And as I haven't reacted before on your boat buy, congrats with that, hope it will work out to have been the right choice for you. Peter.
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Post by smileypete on Oct 27, 2018 21:32:18 GMT
1. Slightly translucent paper 2. A pencil Very good, but there must be something more helpful. Yes, a clamp ammeter that can read DC amps. Something like the Unitrend UT210E (Amazon and Ebay have it) It will allow you to easily 'see' which cables are carrying a current without disconnecting them. So with a load switched on and all the others off, it will be fairly easy to work out which cables are carrying the load, between it and the batteries.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2018 21:37:45 GMT
Very good, but there must be something more helpful. Yes, a clamp ammeter that can read DC amps. Something like the Unitrend UT210E (Amazon and Ebay have it) It will allow you to easily 'see' which cables are carrying a current without disconnecting them. So with a load switched on and all the others off, it will be fairly easy to work out which cables are carrying the load, between it and the batteries. Sounds good, comments about this from others welcome.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2018 21:41:35 GMT
All sorted now. I remembered where the internal switch for the freezer is..... Still don't like the fact that the freezer switch on the panel needs to be on for the water pump to work but I'll live with it. It would surely not be too difficult for a man with your background in wires to simply install a seperate swith for your freezer, or for your waterpump, so that they'll each have their own feed switch, preferably with their own fuses too. I wish you happy boatwork. And as I have reacted before on your boat buy, congrats with that, hope it will work out to have been the right choice for you. Peter. My background was a long time ago... Many years have passed when I've just been able to pay others to sort it out. Big learning curve started...
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Post by Telemachus on Oct 27, 2018 22:31:58 GMT
Yes, a clamp ammeter that can read DC amps. Something like the Unitrend UT210E (Amazon and Ebay have it) It will allow you to easily 'see' which cables are carrying a current without disconnecting them. So with a load switched on and all the others off, it will be fairly easy to work out which cables are carrying the load, between it and the batteries. Sounds good, comments about this from others welcome. Dc clampmeters aren’t very accurate and suffer from temperature dependant offsets. But yes with an adequate load (an amp or more) you can work out which wire from a bundle is carrying the current. But I’m not sure that is going to help much, you still need to create a diagram and that mostly involves physically tracing cables and visualising it in your head.
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