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Post by naughtyfox on Nov 2, 2018 18:56:51 GMT
Next question; any thoughts on whether an anti-freeze tester is useful or not? No. Instead, change your engine coolant. Then you will know how much antifreeze there is in the new mix. I think 25% concentration is suitable for an English winter. Do you know when the coolant was last changed? If not, why not? Do you know how much coolant there is in the whole system? Do you know when the water pump impeller was last changed? If not, change it ASAP!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2018 19:05:33 GMT
Next question; any thoughts on whether an anti-freeze tester is useful or not? No. Instead, change your engine coolant. Then you will know how much antifreeze there is in the new mix. I think 25% concentration is suitable for an English winter. Do you know when the coolant was last changed? If not, why not? Do you know how much coolant there is in the whole system? Do you know when the water pump impeller was last changed? If not, change it ASAP! And potentially cost me far more than a tester would. Thanks!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2018 23:21:47 GMT
Just avoid tomorrow and Monday evenings, I'll be dealing with a Mutt who is petrified of fireworks.... You might find moving the mutt onto the boat helps quite a bit, Ive no idea quite why as sound travels over water, maybe its to do with the combined shock waves not getting through the steel... my theory...not at all scientific ... just from experience with a very nervy dog who was much calmer about fireworks when on the boat. and with loud music to muffle the bangs! You might be correct but after the first 'bang' tonight we are back in the caravan for the duration of darkness over the next few days - the mutt has chosen the caravan as her safe place, hopefully that will change over time (probably once the new sofa arrives!).
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Post by thebfg on Nov 3, 2018 8:04:48 GMT
but you've not used your angle grinder yet. when I'm playing I have three each one set up for cutting, grinding and a flap disc. helps when yiur welding isent the greatest. So you are a grinder rather than a welder then I have a cheap arc welder and haven't been doing it for long. I will get better
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2018 8:21:22 GMT
So you are a grinder rather than a welder then I have a cheap arc welder and haven't been doing it for long. I will get better Have a look here. www.mig-welding.co.uk/arc-tutorial.htmThe most important things to consider are:- Joint prep and cleanliness - clean any paint and shite with a grinder, good practice to waft a blow lamp over to drive off moisture. Secure connection of work return (commonly called the earth - it's not, that's in the 13a plug top ) Electrode selection - stick with good quality 6013 General Purpose electrodes, I would think your set will only be capable of lighting up a 3.2mm rod max Arc length - this is the most common cause of poor welds for beginners, the arc isn't kept at the correct length as it takes time and practice to feed the electrode downwards as well as traveling along the joint as the electrode is consumed. Other important things to get right are electrode Tilt and Slope angles along with travel speed. Above all else practice makes perfect - whether it's the physical act of nailing a couple of bits of metal together or understanding the principles and theory as to why and how to do it. Good luck!
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Post by naughtyfox on Nov 3, 2018 9:53:41 GMT
No. Instead, change your engine coolant. Then you will know how much antifreeze there is in the new mix. I think 25% concentration is suitable for an English winter. Do you know when the coolant was last changed? If not, why not? Do you know how much coolant there is in the whole system? Do you know when the water pump impeller was last changed? If not, change it ASAP! And potentially cost me far more than a tester would. Thanks! Ask at any car garage or boatyard for a tester, although, if you don't know the age of the coolant why would you want to keep that old unknown-unspecified-unclean mixture in he engine of your new boat? We paid £15 for 5 litres of 'pink' (concentrated) antifreeze - mix with 15 litres of water to get 20 litres of a 25% mix. At the same time you give the keel tank a flushing to see what dirt (if any) comes out. You still haven't answered the questions about what you know/don't know about the coolant that's in there now.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2018 10:27:36 GMT
And potentially cost me far more than a tester would. Thanks! Ask at any car garage or boatyard for a tester, although, if you don't know the age of the coolant why would you want to keep that old unknown-unspecified-unclean mixture in he engine of your new boat? We paid £15 for 5 litres of 'pink' (concentrated) antifreeze - mix with 15 litres of water to get 20 litres of a 25% mix. At the same time you give the keel tank a flushing to see what dirt (if any) comes out. You still haven't answered the questions about what you know/don't know about the coolant that's in there now. @newboater will have a man armed with a hydrometer heading his way this week 👍🍻
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Post by naughtyfox on Nov 3, 2018 10:51:12 GMT
Ask at any car garage or boatyard for a tester, although, if you don't know the age of the coolant why would you want to keep that old unknown-unspecified-unclean mixture in he engine of your new boat? We paid £15 for 5 litres of 'pink' (concentrated) antifreeze - mix with 15 litres of water to get 20 litres of a 25% mix. At the same time you give the keel tank a flushing to see what dirt (if any) comes out. You still haven't answered the questions about what you know/don't know about the coolant that's in there now. @newboater will have a man armed with a hydrometer heading his way this week 👍🍻 Please divulge details! The first thing I'd like to know is: 1) Does Donkey know the 'history' of the coolant? If not, why not? Is there no info written up in the boat's Maintenance Folder (such as wot we have)? 2) What does the hydrometer say? 3) What would Donkey do about it if the reading was 'OK', say a 25% mix. Just leave it at that, with an unknown age to the coolant, or just change it anyway (as I would) and start from that point? Changing the coolant could show what muck there is in it. If it all comes out clean, then you could always pour it back in! (but then, new antifreeze contains anti-corrosion chemicals/additives, which in themselves become effectiveness-depleted over time). It could be worth sealing the in-out pipes to the engine whilst draining the coolant, so that you don't get air locks inside the engine. OK, so there will be a small amount of old coolant remaining within the old mix, but that's negligababable.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2018 11:12:11 GMT
@newboater will have a man armed with a hydrometer heading his way this week 👍🍻 Please divulge details! The first thing I'd like to know is: 1) Does Donkey know the 'history' of the coolant? If not, why not? Is there no info written up in the boat's Maintenance Folder (such as wot we have)? 2) What does the hydrometer say? 3) What would Donkey do about it if the reading was 'OK', say a 25% mix. Just leave it at that, with an unknown age to the coolant, or just change it anyway (as I would) and start from that point? Changing the coolant could show what muck there is in it. If it all comes out clean, then you could always pour it back in! (but then, new antifreeze contains anti-corrosion chemicals/additives, which in themselves become effectiveness-depleted over time). It could be worth sealing the in-out pipes to the engine whilst draining the coolant, so that you don't get air locks inside the engine. OK, so there will be a small amount of old coolant remaining within the old mix, but that's negligababable. I'm sure he'll be Ok
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2018 11:37:55 GMT
Please divulge details! The first thing I'd like to know is: 1) Does Donkey know the 'history' of the coolant? If not, why not? Is there no info written up in the boat's Maintenance Folder (such as wot we have)? 2) What does the hydrometer say? 3) What would Donkey do about it if the reading was 'OK', say a 25% mix. Just leave it at that, with an unknown age to the coolant, or just change it anyway (as I would) and start from that point? Changing the coolant could show what muck there is in it. If it all comes out clean, then you could always pour it back in! (but then, new antifreeze contains anti-corrosion chemicals/additives, which in themselves become effectiveness-depleted over time). It could be worth sealing the in-out pipes to the engine whilst draining the coolant, so that you don't get air locks inside the engine. OK, so there will be a small amount of old coolant remaining within the old mix, but that's negligababable. I'm sure he'll be Ok Don't be too sure, if it needs emptying and flushing I'm going to fill it with beer as an emergency supply!
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Post by Jim on Nov 3, 2018 11:55:53 GMT
@newboater will have a man armed with a hydrometer heading his way this week 👍🍻 Please divulge details! The first thing I'd like to know is: 1) Does Donkey know the 'history' of the coolant? If not, why not? Is there no info written up in the boat's Maintenance Folder (such as wot we have)? 2) What does the hydrometer say? 3) What would Donkey do about it if the reading was 'OK', say a 25% mix. Just leave it at that, with an unknown age to the coolant, or just change it anyway (as I would) and start from that point? Changing the coolant could show what muck there is in it. If it all comes out clean, then you could always pour it back in! (but then, new antifreeze contains anti-corrosion chemicals/additives, which in themselves become effectiveness-depleted over time). It could be worth sealing the in-out pipes to the engine whilst draining the coolant, so that you don't get air locks inside the engine. OK, so there will be a small amount of old coolant remaining within the old mix, but that's negligababable. This reminds me of a bit of kit some think essential. An anorak!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2018 12:01:04 GMT
I'm sure he'll be Ok Don't be too sure, if it needs emptying and flushing I'm going to fill it with beer as an emergency supply! You need something with a high alcohol content to stop it freezing, barley wine, special brew or any of the rank high strength Eastern European lagers will do.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2018 12:42:39 GMT
Please divulge details! The first thing I'd like to know is: 1) Does Donkey know the 'history' of the coolant? If not, why not? Is there no info written up in the boat's Maintenance Folder (such as wot we have)? 2) What does the hydrometer say? 3) What would Donkey do about it if the reading was 'OK', say a 25% mix. Just leave it at that, with an unknown age to the coolant, or just change it anyway (as I would) and start from that point? Changing the coolant could show what muck there is in it. If it all comes out clean, then you could always pour it back in! (but then, new antifreeze contains anti-corrosion chemicals/additives, which in themselves become effectiveness-depleted over time). It could be worth sealing the in-out pipes to the engine whilst draining the coolant, so that you don't get air locks inside the engine. OK, so there will be a small amount of old coolant remaining within the old mix, but that's negligababable. This reminds me of a bit of kit some think essential. An anorak! Foxy must be single handedly keeping the oil and antifreeze industry going with the frequency of his changes 👍😂
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Post by duncan on Nov 3, 2018 16:31:57 GMT
So time to splash some cash. When I moved I got rid of all my power tools, many were fairly knackered and were not chosen for narrowboat living. So far on my wish list are;
Battery operated drill Small reciprocating saw Power checking pen thingy Some sort of multi-meter
Would welcome suggestions for the above plus other suggestions for very useful tools - I have spanners/screwdrivers/sockets etc.
You obviously need drill bits to go with the drill if you want to make holes. I recently needed to drill some 7mm holes in a 12mm mild steel bar. My HSS drill bits were struggling, I bought a cheap set of Cobalt bits from Toolstation which made short work of the job.
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Post by naughtyfox on Nov 3, 2018 19:21:26 GMT
Don't be too sure, if it needs emptying and flushing I'm going to fill it with beer as an emergency supply! You need something with a high alcohol content to stop it freezing, barley wine, special brew or any of the rank high strength Eastern European lagers will do. Or Andyberg's 2nd-hand piss.
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