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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2018 19:10:03 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2018 19:17:57 GMT
I've got an old Freedom Combi on the barge which has a master volt digital display/control panel. The voltage about 0.3v out (low)
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2018 19:20:55 GMT
Yep, mine is a bit flashier than that as it has green amber and red markings on it, but basically the same,
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Post by JohnV on Nov 23, 2018 7:31:44 GMT
I bought a cheap amp/volts module from t'internet for a few bob ..... it gives voltage to 2 decimal places for my 24 volt banks. Checked by a calibrated multimeter it was within the .01 volt of the calibration ..... I have no idea of the accuracy of the shunt/amps reading but I don't need that kind of accuracy anyway. With the lithiums you need very accurate voltage measurement
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Post by Clinton Cool on Nov 23, 2018 8:35:02 GMT
I was going to be all smug with my gas fridge but now Calor has increased the price of bottled gas to ridiculous levels, without any cause to do so, the smugness has been wiped off my face.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2018 9:50:56 GMT
I was going to be all smug with my gas fridge but now Calor has increased the price of bottled gas to ridiculous levels, without any cause to do so, the smugness has been wiped off my face. It's easier to replace a gas bottle than shagged batteries. Stick with the gas fridge - quiet too.
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 23, 2018 9:59:10 GMT
I was going to be all smug with my gas fridge but now Calor has increased the price of bottled gas to ridiculous levels, without any cause to do so, the smugness has been wiped off my face. It's easier to replace a gas bottle than shagged batteries. Stick with the gas fridge - quiet too. However with decent solar, running a fridge is free in summer at least. Gas fridges are really inefficient and do cost a not-insignificant amount to run. My caravan gas fridge makes a faint roaring sound and is only marginally quieter than the boat's electric one. Though neither are generally noticeable.
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Post by peterboat on Nov 23, 2018 10:41:55 GMT
I would continue as I was for the moment the weather has been bad for solar this last week, its surprising how much when added up all the electrical items can take. I think a power audit is a good start, you could also turn off the fridge overnight to see if it makes a difference to the morning readings. I would have the fridge on when engine running [if needed] because as Nick knows batteries cut back on charging very rapidly so the alternator wont be working hard. John and I went the LifePo4 route because they are light years better than lead acids, its no good saying that Lead acids are better for the environment, because the life of our batteries if looked after is literally for ever with our usage, how much pollution has been caused recycling lead acids in that time? the answer is a lot
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2018 10:52:28 GMT
Charging batteries at the moment, will turn engine off at 12 and give it a while for voltages to settle. Then I'll report voltage of battery bank with engine off (plus what the mppt is saying) and then start engine (around 12k revs) and measure alternator to hull voltage. Does that seem ok?
Turning fridge off has helped but I'd like to use this opportunity to try to sort things out, I'm at Fenny Stratford so have access within walking distance of shops selling tools that I might need.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2018 11:23:39 GMT
Charging batteries at the moment, will turn engine off at 12 and give it a while for voltages to settle. Then I'll report voltage of battery bank with engine off (plus what the mppt is saying) and then start engine (around 12k revs) and measure alternator to hull voltage. Does that seem ok?
Turning fridge off has helped but I'd like to use this opportunity to try to sort things out, I'm at Fenny Stratford so have access within walking distance of shops selling tools that I might need. Measure alternator b+ to its case you want to know what it is shoving out at source. If you can get on the engine negative for these tests:- Then measure at isolators - both terminals, then at batteries. Record all readings. If it's 14.4+ the hunt begins for the lost volts at the battery
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 23, 2018 12:05:29 GMT
With his engine running at 12k revs I expect all the connections have vibrated off.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2018 12:11:37 GMT
Oops
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2018 12:11:44 GMT
With his engine running at 12k revs I expect all the connections have vibrated off. I missed that - my VFR sounds good at 12k
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2018 13:10:43 GMT
At the moment battery voltage is reading 12.9 both across the battery terminals and on the mppt, I'm assuming I need to wait a bit longer for voltages to settle.
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 23, 2018 13:37:17 GMT
At the moment battery voltage is reading 12.9 both across the battery terminals and on the mppt, I'm assuming I need to wait a bit longer for voltages to settle. Presumably this is with the engine stopped? What is the voltage across battery and alternator with engine running at 1200 rpm or so? Is the MPPT voltage display also showing 12.9?
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