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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:03:49 GMT
This is the router. No switch, just a power in socket. I think it's generally used for embedded systems but it ticked all the boxes for what I needed. And since I’ve cut the power cable to put the switch in between, and re-fitted the power plug, it’s now dimming the lights and not powering the modem/router. So perhaps something to do with resistance? I’m not sure. Just a guess here. I may have to route a new power cable from the fuse board into the room I’ve got this set up but didn’t think that using this extra, unused power outlet would have done any harm. I guess it’s wired up in some way I probably can’t use it. Seems odd to me though.
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Post by Telemachus on Mar 1, 2019 0:08:04 GMT
What sort of fuses do you have? If the “continental” type (ie a plastic tubular “slug” with soft metal ends, gripped between a pair of springy contacts) I’d give those a wiggle and see if the lights get brighter. They suffer from corrosion and bad connections.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:13:30 GMT
Welly do you have a test meter .... even a basic one ? Yep! Got a power meter. Checked the voltage coming out of that power line and it reported 12.69
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:14:42 GMT
This is the router. No switch, just a power in socket. I think it's generally used for embedded systems but it ticked all the boxes for what I needed. And since I’ve cut the power cable to put the switch in between, and re-fitted the power plug, it’s now dimming the lights and not powering the modem/router. So perhaps something to do with resistance? I’m not sure. Just a guess here. I may have to route a new power cable from the fuse board into the room I’ve got this set up but didn’t think that using this extra, unused power outlet would have done any harm. I guess it’s wired up in some way I probably can’t use it. Seems odd to me though. [br Does your router input require normal or reversed polarity?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:17:00 GMT
What sort of fuses do you have? If the “continental” type (ie a plastic tubular “slug” with soft metal ends, gripped between a pair of springy contacts) I’d give those a wiggle and see if the lights get brighter. They suffer from corrosion and bad connections. I’ll have to take a look in the morning, it’s a bit dark in there now! So far not had to change any so haven’t looked behind the fuse switch board.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:20:43 GMT
This is the router. No switch, just a power in socket. I think it's generally used for embedded systems but it ticked all the boxes for what I needed. And since I’ve cut the power cable to put the switch in between, and re-fitted the power plug, it’s now dimming the lights and not powering the modem/router. So perhaps something to do with resistance? I’m not sure. Just a guess here. I may have to route a new power cable from the fuse board into the room I’ve got this set up but didn’t think that using this extra, unused power outlet would have done any harm. I guess it’s wired up in some way I probably can’t use it. Seems odd to me though. [br Does your router input require normal or reversed polarity? The manual doesn’t specify and so I’ve taken it to be normal polarity and that has been working until I put this switch in. I think it probably needs more investigating during the light and with a clearer head!
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:23:06 GMT
Sorry if this is a daft question but hasn’t the router got it’s own on/off switch? Why do you need a separate switch? I also wondered ...... but it occured to me that he could be using the same supply for the outside (powered) aerial he is installing Oh the antenna isn’t powered. It’s just a dual polarised antenna so has two cables coming out of it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:27:32 GMT
[br Does your router input require normal or reversed polarity? The manual doesn’t specify and so I’ve taken it to be normal polarity and that has been working until I put this switch in. I think it probably needs more investigating during the light and with a clearer head! You’re probably right! The only other thing I can think of is that on many boats the negative feeds only go back to the negative on the battery. i.e not connected anywhere to the boat like the earth connection in a house. I wonder whether something you have now connected to the router is making another connection through the boat.
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Post by JohnV on Mar 1, 2019 0:28:19 GMT
I also wondered ...... but it occured to me that he could be using the same supply for the outside (powered) aerial he is installing Oh the antenna isn’t powered. It’s just a dual polarised antenna so has two cables coming out of it. ah !!! the shotgun feed cable from it fooled me ...... that often is power one side coax the other
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:31:40 GMT
My curiosity got the better of me. Positive from the boat into Live in. Negative from the boat into Neutral in. Live out from the switch into Positive in on the router Neutral out from the switch into Negative in on the router. Flicked on the switch. All the lights went out. Flicked off the switch. All the lights came back on. Weird. Note that this cable is routed into the lighting circuit. Not sure what would have caused that. Without the switch, it's been working hunky dory. Where, and how, have you tapped into the lighting circuit ? The router is in my bedroom (behind the engine room). When I moved onto the boat, just above the bed were a couple of lights that were pretty much getting in the way so I took them out and taped up the protruding wires. I thought that one of those cables would be suitable for powering the router, and it was until I started mucking about with it and trying to put in a switch!
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Post by JohnV on Mar 1, 2019 0:41:44 GMT
bugger, I still can't work out what is happening ..... as you say I think in the morning with a clear head
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2019 0:52:44 GMT
bugger, I still can't work out what is happening ..... as you say I think in the morning with a clear head If the light switch is designed for AC house operation then might it have a capacitor in there to prevent spikes? If so wouldn’t that block any DC current?
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Post by TonyDunkley on Mar 1, 2019 1:17:06 GMT
Where, and how, have you tapped into the lighting circuit ? The router is in my bedroom (behind the engine room). When I moved onto the boat, just above the bed were a couple of lights that were pretty much getting in the way so I took them out and taped up the protruding wires. I thought that one of those cables would be suitable for powering the router, and it was until I started mucking about with it and trying to put in a switch! Did you put the switch into the same wire that had worked the router alright without the switch ? The reason I ask is in case the two lights you took out might possibly have been a matching pair of 6 volt lights that were wired in series, and you were connecting the switch to what had been the live feed to the second light. ETA. Another thought: Have you checked all the remaining wires (presumably x 4) that were connected to the removed lights for voltage against the negative terminal/bus bar of the main fusebox ?
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Post by Clinton Cool on Mar 1, 2019 7:19:21 GMT
Similar theme: I have 375w of solar feeding a 30a Tracer mppt controller. I'd like to introduce a switch close to the controller to isolate the panels from the controller. The controller doesn't have a switch, design flaw imho, given that you are supposed to connect the controller to the batteries first. The only way to achieve this at the moment is to either cover the panels, do it at night or remove a connecting wire from the controller. All Heath Robinson. Anyway, the only 12v switches I can find are big and ugly, isolator type things. I want something relatively small and neat. Would a cooker switch designed for 240v do the job? It's just for occasional use. If so, would a cooker switch accept the cable? I think it's 5mm, solar stuff I bought from Bimble.
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Post by JohnV on Mar 1, 2019 7:38:59 GMT
bugger, I still can't work out what is happening ..... as you say I think in the morning with a clear head If the light switch is designed for AC house operation then might it have a capacitor in there to prevent spikes? If so wouldn’t that block any DC current? don't think so .... never come across a switch with a built in capacitor .... and anyway that still doesn't make sense
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