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Post by Clinton Cool on Apr 12, 2019 16:26:51 GMT
I'm going through my bike's electrics trying to work out why the headlight bulbs keep blowing. I'm on the rectifier now. The manual says the multimeter should be set on 'resistance' and should give a reading of 9/10 ohms. The only scale I can get a reading on is the one you can use to check continuity. I'm going to assume that's the right one for now. I get a reading of 17, at the side it says 'm'.
Does anyone know if 'm' on a meter corresponds with 'ohms'? If so, might this difference matter, might I have found the problem?
Cheers.
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Post by duncan on Apr 12, 2019 17:52:29 GMT
I'm going through my bike's electrics trying to work out why the headlight bulbs keep blowing. I'm on the rectifier now. The manual says the multimeter should be set on 'resistance' and should give a reading of 9/10 ohms. The only scale I can get a reading on is the one you can use to check continuity. I'm going to assume that's the right one for now. I get a reading of 17, at the side it says 'm'. Does anyone know if 'm' on a meter corresponds with 'ohms'? If so, might this difference matter, might I have found the problem? Cheers. Is this link any use?
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Post by Mr Stabby on Apr 12, 2019 19:43:05 GMT
Do you have a decent battery? On many bikes the battery is used as a voltage regulator and blowing bulbs is a classic sign of a knackered battery.
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Post by bodger on Apr 12, 2019 20:13:03 GMT
a 'professionally qualified' electrician of my acquaintance told me with great authority that if the voltage drops then lights should always be switched off, 'cos the bulb's Power rating in watts = VI. He deduced that, because the bulb has a 'fixed power rating' (because it is engraved on the stem, so it must be right), then if V falls, I increases and the high current will burn out the bulb. He ignored the fact that lights go dim when the voltage drops, which most folk would assume is because the current has dropped as well.
no, he didn't have any understanding of what was going on, but he knew it all anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2019 20:22:35 GMT
I'm going through my bike's electrics trying to work out why the headlight bulbs keep blowing. I'm on the rectifier now. The manual says the multimeter should be set on 'resistance' and should give a reading of 9/10 ohms. The only scale I can get a reading on is the one you can use to check continuity. I'm going to assume that's the right one for now. I get a reading of 17, at the side it says 'm'. Does anyone know if 'm' on a meter corresponds with 'ohms'? If so, might this difference matter, might I have found the problem? Cheers. So many things wrong with your OP Ricco.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2019 21:16:48 GMT
Do you have a decent battery? On many bikes the battery is used as a voltage regulator and blowing bulbs is a classic sign of a knackered battery. A good battery does help regulate the AC. Equally a knackered rectifier or cheapo bulb doesn’t help. PS I no longer buy bulbs from Halfrauds...
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Post by Clinton Cool on Apr 12, 2019 21:34:13 GMT
It might just be crap bulbs. The problem is, the ones I've bought from different suppliers all seem to be made by the same firm. They are 6v. None of the other bulbs have blown in the 2 years I've had the bike, other than the little bulbs in the speedo and rev counter.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Apr 12, 2019 21:39:10 GMT
Does the brightness of the bulbs change significantly between tickover and full revs?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2019 21:47:07 GMT
It might just be crap bulbs. The problem is, the ones I've bought from different suppliers all seem to be made by the same firm. They are 6v. None of the other bulbs have blown in the 2 years I've had the bike, other than the little bulbs in the speedo and rev counter. Is it a 6v battery?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2019 21:49:36 GMT
Does the brightness of the bulbs change significantly between tickover and full revs? I doubt Ricco has time to do that test inbetween shags..
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2019 21:54:13 GMT
..where’s Nick and Gazza when you need them..
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2019 10:56:38 GMT
I'm going through my bike's electrics trying to work out why the headlight bulbs keep blowing. I'm on the rectifier now. The manual says the multimeter should be set on 'resistance' and should give a reading of 9/10 ohms. The only scale I can get a reading on is the one you can use to check continuity. I'm going to assume that's the right one for now. I get a reading of 17, at the side it says 'm'. Does anyone know if 'm' on a meter corresponds with 'ohms'? If so, might this difference matter, might I have found the problem? Che That may not be an "m", is it an ohm symbol? kg⋅m2⋅s−3⋅A−2 or an m for milli ohms 1/1000?
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Post by peterboat on Apr 13, 2019 11:26:05 GMT
I have found in the past that cheap low wattage bulbs from China are useless!! are they from China?
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Post by Clinton Cool on Apr 13, 2019 11:31:20 GMT
I have found in the past that cheap low wattage bulbs from China are useless!! are they from China? More than likely! I'm struggling with this, might resort to getting a powerful cycling light, rechargeable battery, then just stick a bulb in before I rock up for an MOT.
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Post by Jim on Apr 13, 2019 12:50:21 GMT
On my meter the continuity is part of the ohms scale/setting. A better meter might be A Good Thing.
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