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Post by Clinton Cool on Jul 18, 2019 21:54:50 GMT
Picked up my new bike today. Well pleased with it. I always felt moments from death while riding my old Yamaha, its dodgy brakes and skinny tyres. This one feels safe.
Anyway, I took lots of measurements of the bike to check it would fit on the bike rack on my boat. I had the tiller adapted, one of the supports for the handrail cut out. All good. Apart from I forgot to consider the width of the back tyre. It's 130mm. The steel channel the bike sits in is also 130mm. Result; a horrible squeaking sound as the outsides of the tyres rub against the edges of the channel as I try to load the bike. It won't do.
The solution is to fix 4 x 4 timber into the channel the bike sits in. This will raise the tyre enough to ensure it doesn't rub against the steel. The problem then is that I'd be pushing the bike up a ramp then along a steel channel with only 1" separating the bike from the doom of ending up in the canal. The solution to this is to fit 3/4" thick marine ply to the sides of the steel channel, creating new upstands of 60mm or so. I'll bolt this ply to the steel at regular intervals. I'd like to glue it as well as bolt it, what's the best glue to use?
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Post by greenman on Jul 19, 2019 5:33:25 GMT
Would be interested to see your set up if you have any pictures.
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Post by JohnV on Jul 19, 2019 6:01:49 GMT
I'd like to glue it as well as bolt it, what's the best glue to use? a good PU glue (polyurethane) either liquid type such as Gorilla original or a gel type in a dispenser tube (like sealants are packed) such as Evostik polyurethane wood adhesive lightly dampen first and clamp tightly (the Evostik gel type goes off in about 5 or 10 min but the liquid ones are slower) personally I would go for Gorilla Original. (plastic gloves are a good idea otherwise you are likely to be wearing it for a while, don't ask me how I know this  ) |
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Post by bodger on Jul 19, 2019 6:58:41 GMT
if you are bolting the ply to the steel, you don't need a glue as such. If it was me I would use an adhesive/sealant applied to one surface, it will stabilise the joint and fill any gap where water might sit. I use Bond-It PU18 (ebay) for this type of thing. It sticks like shit to a shovel, is very messy, but cleans up with white spirit. It has a polyurethane formula and expands very slightly, so the gap will be well sealed. The nice bit is that it's as cheap as chips.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2019 8:10:15 GMT
+1 for PU18 its my goo of choice too.
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Post by lollygagger on Jul 19, 2019 8:12:24 GMT
If you intend to paint the steel first, the fact that it's steel becomes less important than getting the paint well bonded to the steel.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Jul 20, 2019 7:09:40 GMT
I'm well on with this now. I've bought 'Malaysian exterior ply' for the vertical extensions for the rack. One grade below marine ply they said at the yard. It doesn't look the best quality to be honest. I'm wondering what to do with the cut edges, can't see them lasting long if exposed to the elements. I have Sadolin, wood primer and gloss. Which might be best, or maybe use all 3, get as much on as possible? Or something else?
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Post by JohnV on Jul 20, 2019 7:45:28 GMT
cut edges on ply are always a weak point.
I am a great believer in loads of paint layered on until it stops soaking in .....
with that choice of paints I would probably use sadolin
There are more types of ply than you can shake a stick at ...... and many are pretty poor quality.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Jul 20, 2019 9:02:24 GMT
Cheers John do you think it would do any harm to put a couple of layers of pva glue on before the Sadolin? Or after it maybe, then a couple of coats of primer and gloss?
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Post by bodger on Jul 20, 2019 9:11:08 GMT
having suffered total delamination (even during fabrication) of cheap 'marine ply', I found the only solution is to liberally coat all cut edges with epoxy resin, 2 coats because the first one soaks in and leaves it rough, the second one forms a nice hard gloss finish.
If I was doing the job I would have found some phenolic resin coated ply (buffalo board or similar) or proper BS1088 plywood, and coat the cut edges with the same resin system. Failing that, if the job is not structural, why not use something like building plastic (fascia board or similar)?
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Post by Clinton Cool on Jul 20, 2019 9:21:03 GMT
The idea is to give a 2 and a bit inch upstand to prevent the bike falling into the cut should it deviate slightly off centre when I'm pushing it on or off. I reckoned 3/4 ply secured with coach bolts and large washers every 200mm, and decent glue would give me that strength. Plastic? not so sure.
It's not the end of the world if I have 2 do it all again 12 months from now but I'd prefer to delay that inevitability to 2 or 3 years if possible. There again I don't really want to spend fortunes, spent enough already, but if there's a product that gives a fair chance of much longer service I'll make the investment. Could you suggest a suitable epoxy resin?
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Post by lollygagger on Jul 20, 2019 9:44:16 GMT
Some aluminium strips might work?
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Post by bodger on Jul 20, 2019 9:59:11 GMT
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Post by bodger on Jul 20, 2019 10:00:49 GMT
Some aluminium strips might work? agree - if you have some scrap ali or steel strip this would be the best solution. you'll have to drill the steel channel anyway, so a few more holes drilled in metal shouldn't be a problem. alternatively some treated timber, say 100 x 22 planed, would do the job and will be less hassle and cheaper than scruffy delaminating plywood, and doesn't need any painting. |
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Post by Clinton Cool on Jul 20, 2019 10:06:26 GMT
I think you're right, steel is best. Problem is I have no transport other than the bike. Timber I can get cut easily and carry it in my fishing holdall, up to 1.8m or so. I'm starting to think this will be a temporary fix, maybe look to replace it with steel when the ply inevitably fails.
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