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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 23, 2019 19:35:32 GMT
I have yet another project on the go. I've built a new table for my boat, hinged in the middle so it's out of the way when I don't need it. Its great, gives a feeling of much more space. I've also built slim cupboards to go either side of the table, with the t.v sitting between the cupboards. Really pleased with how this has gone so far but now the most tricky part:
The doors for the cupboards are 2x1. I've had the timber cut by the wood yard so the cuts are perfectly square, and the lengths are exact. My thinking was to use wood glue and temporary corner brackets as clamps. This isn't working. However much I try I can't get the frames square and true. Lacking any proper clamps or other serious tools I've come up with this idea: Superglue the frames together. I know that this glue tends not to last but...I'll create a rebate with 12mm quadrant and then make infills from thin cladding. I reckon if I use wood glue for the quadrants and infills, with luck, it should hold the frames together.
What do you reckon?
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Post by bodger on Aug 23, 2019 20:53:06 GMT
I reckon you need to invest in some corner clamps (as used in picture framing) or build the door frame on a sheet of MDF or similar, with wooden blocks and wedges to hold it square during the gluing process. Google is your friend.
Superglue is not what you need - Gorilla glue is much more suitable because it will fill the joint as it expands.
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Post by Gone on Aug 23, 2019 21:14:43 GMT
I reckon you need to invest in some corner clamps (as used in picture framing) or build the door frame on a sheet of MDF or similar, with wooden blocks and wedges to hold it square during the gluing process. Google is your friend. Superglue is not what you need - Gorilla glue is much more suitable because it will fill the joint as it expands. Gorilla glue in this case is polyurethane adhesive, damn good stuff, get it on you fingers and it doesn’t clean off, you have to wait for it to wear away.
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Post by phil70 on Aug 23, 2019 22:27:52 GMT
You need to be careful with gorilla glue as it expands and will cling to anything it touches. Any surfaces that you want to be clean can be "waxed" or use cling film to make it very easy to remove excess. Phil
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 23, 2019 22:33:10 GMT
The reason I'm thinking of using super glue is that I can hold the sections together square for a few seconds while it sets, without the need for clamps. Does gorilla glue set quickly?
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Post by bodger on Aug 24, 2019 7:18:30 GMT
sorry, Ricco, but trying to get it perfectly square while holding it as the glue sets is a bodge. First of all your joint needs to be perfect, then you need to hold it so there is absolutely no gap (superglue is not gap-filling), and you also need to ensure the joint is not twisted, so it needs to be held firmly on a flat surface. Unless you are using a very hard dense wood like teak, superglue will soak into the timber and will not even be wet when you try to hold it together. You will need an excess of glue which will take forever to cure (don't be fooled that it sets in a few seconds in such a situation - it doesn't).
if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing well.
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Post by Jim on Aug 24, 2019 7:37:51 GMT
Pu glue comes in 2 flavours, 5 and 30 min varieties. I don't know which the Gorilla brand is. I find a pumice stone handy for cleaning fingers. A couple of clamps would be an investment, now that you are getting the hang of DIY.
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Post by bodger on Aug 24, 2019 9:11:05 GMT
PS: I only use superglue to repair things that are broken, like a plastic component or a chipped cup. I would never use it for structural joints.
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Post by deadly on Aug 24, 2019 9:34:18 GMT
PS: I only use superglue to repair things that are broken, like a plastic component or a chipped cup. I would never use it for structural joints. superglue is hopeless on non-porous surfaces such as plastics and ceramics, the only strength you're getting is surface tension, you'd be far better off with a 2 part epoxy. Superglue was designed for sticking flesh (battlefield wounds), the only things it sticks well are flesh-related porous organic materials (eg leather).
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 24, 2019 9:40:09 GMT
Thanks for all the advice. I have no room for any more tools on this boat so it's going to have to be a bodge I'm afraid. Latest thinking is to use the floor in my kitchen, it's laminate, flat, and I have a long straight edge against the cabinets. 1x1 against the straight edge to keep the glue away, the longer length of 2x1 for the doors to rest on top of the 1x1, against the straight edge. More bits of 1x1 to support the rest of the door frame then cut bits of wood to length so I can brace the whole thing against the bathroom wall that's opposite the kitchen. I'll use wood glue, which I have, rather than super glue. It's probably a bit madcap this, but it's all I can think of.
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Post by bodger on Aug 24, 2019 9:59:44 GMT
Thanks for all the advice. I have no room for any more tools on this boat so it's going to have to be a bodge I'm afraid. Latest thinking is to use the floor in my kitchen, it's laminate, flat, and I have a long straight edge against the cabinets. 1x1 against the straight edge to keep the glue away, the longer length of 2x1 for the doors to rest on top of the 1x1, against the straight edge. More bits of 1x1 to support the rest of the door frame then cut bits of wood to length so I can brace the whole thing against the bathroom wall that's opposite the kitchen. I'll use wood glue, which I have, rather than super glue. It's probably a bit madcap this, but it's all I can think of. I assume you mean white PVA wood glue. That's not really a bodge - it is a good plan. That'll do it, but you won't have the advantage of the gap-filling expanding properties of Gorilla glue. White glue takes about a day to cure hard, so you shouldn't really disturb it until then.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 24, 2019 10:43:03 GMT
Cheers, thought it was a bit of a mad idea but nice to know I haven't gone completely insane I'm going to take my time, the table and cupboards are more or less 100% good, it would be a shame to spoil it with naff doors.
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Post by bodger on Aug 24, 2019 11:18:06 GMT
PS: I only use superglue to repair things that are broken, like a plastic component or a chipped cup. I would never use it for structural joints. superglue is hopeless on non-porous surfaces such as plastics and ceramics, the only strength you're getting is surface tension, you'd be far better off with a 2 part epoxy. Superglue was designed for sticking flesh (battlefield wounds), the only things it sticks well are flesh-related porous organic materials (eg leather).
but using it to repair broken bits relies on the mechanical roughness of the broken surfaces. I agree that it is not very effective on the polished finished surfaces of such materials.
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Post by Gone on Aug 24, 2019 15:52:52 GMT
PS: I only use superglue to repair things that are broken, like a plastic component or a chipped cup. I would never use it for structural joints. superglue is hopeless on non-porous surfaces such as plastics and ceramics, the only strength you're getting is surface tension, you'd be far better off with a 2 part epoxy. Superglue was designed for sticking flesh (battlefield wounds), the only things it sticks well are flesh-related porous organic materials (eg leather).
The only things I have ever successfully glued together with super glue are my fingers whilst holding what I wanted repaired together. Oh and it’s good as a thread lock, but don’t expect it to undo again.
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Post by Gone on Aug 24, 2019 15:55:33 GMT
Thanks for all the advice. I have no room for any more tools on this boat so it's going to have to be a bodge I'm afraid. Latest thinking is to use the floor in my kitchen, it's laminate, flat, and I have a long straight edge against the cabinets. 1x1 against the straight edge to keep the glue away, the longer length of 2x1 for the doors to rest on top of the 1x1, against the straight edge. More bits of 1x1 to support the rest of the door frame then cut bits of wood to length so I can brace the whole thing against the bathroom wall that's opposite the kitchen. I'll use wood glue, which I have, rather than super glue. It's probably a bit madcap this, but it's all I can think of. I have used a ratchet strap to pull a frame around an inset panel, don’t do it up tight or the frame will twist, just snug.
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