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Post by Jim on May 16, 2019 6:12:34 GMT
So you have one line from bottle going through a bubble tester, then test point for manometer then a 3 way splitter tap feeding water heater, hob and Grill and oven? Trying to picture your layout. My system is similar but have single taps before each device. I learned on this last test that if there is a braided flexi hose eg on my oven and my hob, there must be an isolating tap, but not if its hard pipe, so I didn't need the tap on the boiler. I've had trouble with leaks on the taps on a cooker, stripped and cleaned them and greased with special grease and it sealed them. Have you tried a manometer on the test point?
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2019 6:46:16 GMT
Having recently had a BSS fail due to a minor gas leak can I just suggest that a manometer is the best way to isolate whether the leak is in the appliance side or supply side.
When it’s plugged into the test point and all taps shut on the appliance side, if the manometer sees a drop in pressure them it must be on the supply side (unless there is a leak at the test point itself!).
BTW the test was done after pressuring the system then shutting the gas supply off. If the gas is left on during the test you won’t see a drop!
In the end it turned out to be at the joint between the flexable hose and 3 way fridge (which we run on gas). Our gas safe guy used the washing up liquid mix method to pin point the leak (he said it’s better than the spray). In hindsight I should have checked that myself as it’s the only appliance which sometimes gets pulled out for cleaning.
Generally speaking anyone doing gas work to boats should be ‘gas safe’ I learnt from the BSS that BSS examiners aren’t even supposed to interfere with the test point if the boat is a live aboard. However gas sniffers aren’t very reliable and can be set off by a lot of things.
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Post by Jim on May 16, 2019 8:27:00 GMT
Having recently had a BSS fail due to a minor gas leak can I just suggest that a manometer is the best way to isolate whether the leak is in the appliance side or supply side. When it’s plugged into the test point and all taps shut on the appliance side, if the manometer sees a drop in pressure them it must be on the supply side (unless there is a leak at the test point itself!). BTW the test was done after pressuring the system then shutting the gas supply off. If the gas is left on during the test you won’t see a drop! In the end it turned out to be at the joint between the flexable hose and 3 way fridge (which we run on gas). Our gas safe guy used the washing up liquid mix method to pin point the leak (he said it’s better than the spray). In hindsight I should have checked that myself as it’s the only appliance which sometimes gets pulled out for cleaning. Generally speaking anyone doing gas work to boats should be ‘gas safe’ I learnt from the BSS that BSS examiners aren’t even supposed to interfere with the test point if the boat is a live aboard. However gas sniffers aren’t very reliable and can be set off by a lot of things.
I have a wired 12v gas alarm, it was triggered last week by the compressed gas can I was using to blow throw the carburettor. And yes to your testing method, I forgot, in my list that the order of things is bottle, bubble tester, test point, isolating tap - then to the other appliances and isol taps.
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Post by faffer on May 16, 2019 18:40:01 GMT
This is my set up. Cylinder to Bubble tester then multi tap splitting off.
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2019 18:44:10 GMT
This is my set up. Cylinder to Bubble tester then multi tap splitting off. Have you tried removing the gas bottle to see if the problem goes away?
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Post by faffer on May 18, 2019 17:42:30 GMT
This is my set up. Cylinder to Bubble tester then multi tap splitting off. Have you tried removing the gas bottle to see if the problem goes away? Worth a try as i still cant find the bloody leak. Only thing i can think of now.
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Post by Jim on May 18, 2019 17:48:09 GMT
Have you tried removing the gas bottle to see if the problem goes away? Worth a try as i still cant find the bloody leak. Only thing i can think of now. Try bubble juice on the regulator breather hole. That was the problem my mate had, leaking regulator diaphragm.
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Post by Deleted on May 18, 2019 20:00:08 GMT
Have you tried removing the gas bottle to see if the problem goes away? Worth a try as i still cant find the bloody leak. Only thing i can think of now. I do know someone with a trad butty who was quite relieved that there is no gas aboard...and he’s a good chef. No idea how that works.
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Post by faffer on May 19, 2019 17:23:05 GMT
Still no luck. i have ordered a new regulator and a test point to go on the end of the three way valve. So there is another way to check for a leak and will tell if the bubble tester is faulty.
I was going to get a Sniffer but then most folk said that the ones i am looking at are not the best and need the the one that draws air into the tester or the sensor.
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Post by faffer on May 19, 2019 18:02:59 GMT
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Post by JohnV on May 20, 2019 18:20:46 GMT
another good job from the Faffer workshops
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Post by faffer on May 20, 2019 18:59:37 GMT
another good job from the Faffer workshops Ah dam it, i guess you havnt spotted the cock up, just noticed myself that will have to be altered.
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Post by patty on May 21, 2019 6:55:45 GMT
All looked good to me... Doesn't cock up on the D I Y front =not quite right=individuality=OK
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Post by faffer on May 21, 2019 7:12:18 GMT
All looked good to me... Doesn't cock up on the D I Y front =not quite right=individuality=OK The nearest bottom left screw is not exactly turned enough as the rest. Slot not parallel with the hatch. Ok ok i need help lol
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Post by patty on May 21, 2019 11:20:01 GMT
All looked good to me... Doesn't cock up on the D I Y front =not quite right=individuality=OK The nearest bottom left screw is not exactly turned enough as the rest. Slot not parallel with the hatch. Ok ok i need help lol Is that it? Jeepers... there r no words......
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