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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2016 19:08:48 GMT
Life happens. I didn't delete the posts because of what happened on here.
Looking back on the day I went into 'threat > run away' mode and I suspect this was just caused by a simple breaking of the glass in one of my stoves.
I'll survive, but my actions do get a bit frustrating for others ( and extremely frustrating for me).
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Post by JohnV on Nov 29, 2016 19:30:55 GMT
Life happens. I didn't delete the posts because of what happened on here. Looking back on the day I went into 'threat > run away' mode and I suspect this was just caused by a simple breaking of the glass in one of my stoves. I'll survive, but my actions do get a bit frustrating for others ( and extremely frustrating for me). You don't have to explain yourself (but it does help us to understand) No pressure
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Post by Saltysplash on Nov 30, 2016 9:07:14 GMT
Life happens. I didn't delete the posts because of what happened on here. Looking back on the day I went into 'threat > run away' mode and I suspect this was just caused by a simple breaking of the glass in one of my stoves. I'll survive, but my actions do get a bit frustrating for others ( and extremely frustrating for me). You don't have to explain yourself (but it does help us to understand) No pressure Wot e said
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Post by smileypete on Nov 30, 2016 11:19:00 GMT
I expect most professional fitouts should be reasonably good, though access for plumbing bits may be restricted. With DIY fitouts or later additions the quality may vary greatly. With wiring a tidy job leaves a good first impression, though I'd look closer to check that larger crimp connections are fully heatshinked and the smaller crimp connections look like they've been done with a proper ratcheting tool. As always get a full survey from a reputable surveyor. BTW something that ticks me off is where 12V and 0V batt cables are cable tied together before the isolator or main fuse: If the batt terminals get shorted eg due to dropped hatches or tools, once the insulation melts it's armageddon time, you haven't got a prayer of safely stopping it. Hopefully this is something a good surveyor should spot, cheap to fix but a potential disaster if left as is.
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 30, 2016 11:32:30 GMT
I expect most professional fitouts should be reasonably good, though access for plumbing bits may be restricted. BTW something that ticks me off is where 12V and 0V batt cables are cable tied together before the isolator or main fuse: If the batt terminals get shorted eg due to dropped hatches or tools, once the insulation melts it's armageddon time, you haven't got a prayer of safely stopping it.
Actually that's a really good point I hadn't thought of. My aircraft engineering brain says that it is better to closely tie cables together to prevent the risk of chafing, but as you say that doesn't take into consideration what would happen with an unfused short circuit. I'm pretty sure the + and -ve battery cables aren't tied together before the 500A fuse but I'm going to check when we go down to the boat on Thursday!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2016 12:02:53 GMT
I looked at Smileypete's photo and was really impressed. How tidy and clean does that look.
Shows what sort of an OCD numpty I am.
Electrickery baffles me.
Mind you, so does most things.
Rog
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Post by lollygagger on Nov 30, 2016 13:10:20 GMT
I expect most professional fitouts should be reasonably good, though access for plumbing bits may be restricted. BTW something that ticks me off is where 12V and 0V batt cables are cable tied together before the isolator or main fuse: If the batt terminals get shorted eg due to dropped hatches or tools, once the insulation melts it's armageddon time, you haven't got a prayer of safely stopping it.
Actually that's a really good point I hadn't thought of. My aircraft engineering brain says that it is better to closely tie cables together to prevent the risk of chafing, but as you say that doesn't take into consideration what would happen with an unfused short circuit. I'm pretty sure the + and -ve battery cables aren't tied together before the 500A fuse but I'm going to check when we go down to the boat on Thursday!
Someone a couple of boats away did exactly this a few months ago, all wiring before the isolator switch melted including negatives via the engine. The cable ties holding them in place also melted and one cable dropped onto a battery then sliced through it in seconds. A right old mess.
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Post by smileypete on Nov 30, 2016 13:54:27 GMT
I looked at Smileypete's photo and was really impressed. How tidy and clean does that look. Shows what sort of an OCD numpty I am. Electrickery baffles me. Mind you, so does most things. Rog That's not mine, my bote is shockingly bad! I just googled that one to show unfused + and - batt cables tied together. Here's another one, on a boatbuilders website(!):
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Post by bargemast on Nov 30, 2016 15:01:04 GMT
I looked at Smileypete's photo and was really impressed. How tidy and clean does that look. Shows what sort of an OCD numpty I am. Electrickery baffles me. Mind you, so does most things. Rog Same here Rog, when I looked at the photo Pete posted I first thought that that looked like a very neat installation, until I looked more carefully.
The second photo of an installation done by a Professional boatbuilders outfit makes me wonder if there are still places you can trust to do a proper job that's respecting all safety rules and aspects.
It's much too easy to fool people that aren't experts themselfs with neatly tied together cables and wiring.
How can these so called professionals get away with it ? If someone who's an amateur/hobbiest that fits out his/her boat that makes mistakes like that, thinking they're doing a neat job, it's more understandable, but if you have to pay your hard earned to a pro who does it, there's something very wrong.
Peter.
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Post by smileypete on Nov 30, 2016 15:50:01 GMT
Actually that's a really good point I hadn't thought of. My aircraft engineering brain says that it is better to closely tie cables together to prevent the risk of chafing, but as you say that doesn't take into consideration what would happen with an unfused short circuit. I'm pretty sure the + and -ve battery cables aren't tied together before the 500A fuse but I'm going to check when we go down to the boat on Thursday!
I think it should merit an advisory in the BSS, if not a requirement. Wonder how the engine marinisers deal with alt output cables, did yours come with a fuse or does the diagram supplied show one? Something else worth doing is making sure battery cable crimps are fully encapsulated with glue lined heatshrink, so spilt drops of batt acid or any water used for cleaning can't wick in behind the cable insulation: Wouldn't hurt to do it for other high current cables too.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 30, 2016 20:24:19 GMT
BTW something that ticks me off is where 12V and 0V batt cables are cable tied together before the isolator or main fuse: If the batt terminals get shorted eg due to dropped hatches or tools, once the insulation melts it's armageddon time, you haven't got a prayer of safely stopping it. Hopefully this is something a good surveyor should spot, cheap to fix but a potential disaster if left as is. Well pointed out, Pete. I know others have said the same but I've only just seen this post. It's not something I'd ever considered but now that you mention it it's so obviously a danger point. Cheers, Tony
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Post by Deleted on Nov 30, 2016 20:32:54 GMT
Actually that's a really good point I hadn't thought of. My aircraft engineering brain says that it is better to closely tie cables together to prevent the risk of chafing, but as you say that doesn't take into consideration what would happen with an unfused short circuit. I'm pretty sure the + and -ve battery cables aren't tied together before the 500A fuse but I'm going to check when we go down to the boat on Thursday!
I think it should merit an advisory in the BSS, if not a requirement. Wonder how the engine marinisers deal with alt output cables, did yours come with a fuse or does the diagram supplied show one? Something else worth doing is making sure battery cable crimps are fully encapsulated with glue lined heatshrink, so spilt drops of batt acid or any water used for cleaning can't wick in behind the cable insulation: Wouldn't hurt to do it for other high current cables too. I made up a load of crimped cables a few months back and used the glue lined heatshrink, its really good stuff, and not much more expensive than standard heat shrink.
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Post by JohnV on Nov 30, 2016 23:28:17 GMT
BTW something that ticks me off is where 12V and 0V batt cables are cable tied together before the isolator or main fuse: If the batt terminals get shorted eg due to dropped hatches or tools, once the insulation melts it's armageddon time, you haven't got a prayer of safely stopping it. Hopefully this is something a good surveyor should spot, cheap to fix but a potential disaster if left as is. Well pointed out, Pete. I know others have said the same but I've only just seen this post. It's not something I'd ever considered but now that you mention it it's so obviously a danger point. Cheers, Tony Shit!!! ....... I've just used a lump of 3 core 25sqmm H07 RNF flex from my batteries to the 125A fuses ( 24V-12V- 0) ....... That was something I hadn't thought of as a safety issue. Bugger ..... only finished yesterday ..... I'll have to change it this weekend
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Post by bodger on Dec 1, 2016 9:05:58 GMT
I expect most professional fitouts should be reasonably good, though access for plumbing bits may be restricted. With DIY fitouts or later additions the quality may vary greatly. With wiring a tidy job leaves a good first impression, though I'd look closer to check that larger crimp connections are fully heatshinked and the smaller crimp connections look like they've been done with a proper ratcheting tool. As always get a full survey from a reputable surveyor. BTW something that ticks me off is where 12V and 0V batt cables are cable tied together before the isolator or main fuse: If the batt terminals get shorted eg due to dropped hatches or tools, once the insulation melts it's armageddon time, you haven't got a prayer of safely stopping it. Hopefully this is something a good surveyor should spot, cheap to fix but a potential disaster if left as is. some form of insulated cover over those bare positive terminals would be an improvement as well, especially when you are down in the 'ole attending to the engine. I suggest a simple plywood tray that will also serve as a tool rest.
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Post by peterboat on Dec 1, 2016 9:12:15 GMT
Thats the great thing about 2 volt cells the links have plastic covers and the bolt has a plastic head so tools being dropped hit plastic. Also one lead goes to engine earths and into boat other lead goes to fuse and switch different directions thankfully. The leads are very large 70mm if memory serves me right not very flexi at all
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