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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2018 21:34:29 GMT
Get one from a motor factors local to the boat.
Yuasa, Bosch and Banner are very good.
You will need to measure the size and terminal layout of the current battery unless you know the type fitted, they have a code that relates to size and capacity.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2018 22:53:08 GMT
We bought ours from the chandlers at methley. Not being a big shiny outfit like midland, in fact very much the opposite, the prices were not out the way.
ISTR it was an exide, don't know if it's still going several years on.
But as gazza has said a decent motor factors will have them too. We saved a bit by getting a 75 aph rather than a 85 aph, this was on the advice of the chandlers who easily could have sold us a more expensive one.
It was fine on our Isuzu 42.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 8, 2018 22:59:51 GMT
I always try to use Warwick batteries opposite the Saltisford Arm.
Great service, and very accessible being only across the road from the arm.
Of course that's no help to you I'm afraid.
But if you can take your battery to a specialist (presuming you've been happy with it) they'll match it.
Rog
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Post by peterboat on Feb 9, 2018 13:22:03 GMT
Jaguar favour Varta batteries which seem to be ok I have seen plenty at ten years old going strong, At Eurocarparts I noticed that Duracell now do car batteries! you could maybe experiment to see what they are like? But for me I would wait for it to die mine on Joyce is now over ten years old it is a lucas I think and it wont be replaced until it stops starting the boat
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2018 15:59:12 GMT
Jaguar favour Varta batteries which seem to be ok I have seen plenty at ten years old going strong, At Eurocarparts I noticed that Duracell now do car batteries! you could maybe experiment to see what they are like? But for me I would wait for it to die mine on Joyce is now over ten years old it is a lucas I think and it wont be replaced until it stops starting the boat I've a feeling those Duracell badged ones are Exide batteries. I had a Varta on my '99 Transit for donkeys years. I've also only just changed the original 2009 battery on the MIL fiesta diesel, it only does short runs now having slogged from Kettering to Leicester daily for the first 5 years of it's life. Not bad going at all tbh. I have a feeling that Ford use Varta for their badged products. My Skoda has had a new battery at just over 6 years old, that was an OE supplied Banner. Got a stonking deal on a yuasa 096 5 year guarantee - £70+vat, same battery in halfords was £119 including vat! Like you I'd let it die first, but then I'm a bit of a tight git, not Northern tight but tight none the less
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 10, 2018 15:39:58 GMT
Just a quickie. Our starter battery (unknown make/model - doesn't say on it) works fine but is getting old, and for my own amusement I wouldn't mind buying a new one. What makes are good? And from where does one buy batteries? Do NOT suggest Halfords! Just an ordinary 12v car starter battery - the old fashioned type with liquid acid in it is fine, but I would like something good (and definitely nothing Made in Peoples' Republic of Crap). Is Exide a good name? Something that should last 5 - 10 years. I wouldn't buy a new battery until you need it, Ross. Standing about unused the Warranty period will still be running from the time you buy it, and unless you can can keep it permanently on a charger that's supplying the correct 'float' voltage for the type of battery, or very regularly keep it up to the correct, maximum SoC with a freshening-up charge at the correct rate, it will begin to sulphate and lose some performance and capacity, which is why it's always best to buy batteries from suppliers with a high rate of stock turnover. If I remember right you've got a single cylinder engine (Sabb ?) fitted with decompressor gear in your boat, so when your present battery does eventually reach the end of it's useful life it will still be capable of getting you going, by turning it over on the starter off compression, for several days/weeks before it gives up the ghost completely.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2018 16:02:29 GMT
Bukh.
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Post by naughtyfox on Feb 10, 2018 16:54:13 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2018 17:04:11 GMT
You have midges in your engine ole!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2018 17:08:52 GMT
Alternator belt looks as though it could do with nipping up a wee bit. Foxy, next time you are down our way have a look in our engine hole, I'll provide the marigolds and Jif
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 10, 2018 18:43:50 GMT
Yes Ross, it works fine. The red 4'' to 5'' long lever on the valve rocker cover on the very top of the engine is the decompressor, which, from memory, I think you turn clockwise through about 70 - 80 degrees to operate the decompression gear. If your old battery does begin to lose cranking power whilst you're out on the boat somewhere then you can operate that decompressor lever at the same time as you push the start button to help the starter motor to turn the engine over fast enough to get it going (when you turn the decompressor lever back to the 'run' position), even with reduced power from the battery. Ps. All the decompressor does is to lift one of the valves a little way off it's seating so there's no compression (resistance) as the piston goes over TDC at the end of compression stroke.
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Post by naughtyfox on Feb 10, 2018 18:52:27 GMT
Yes Ross, it works fine. The red 4'' to 5'' long lever on the valve rocker cover on the very top of the engine is the decompressor, which, from memory, I think you turn clockwise through about 70 - 80 degrees to operate the decompression gear. Yes, that's right. If your old battery does begin to lose cranking power whilst you're out on the boat somewhere then you can operate that decompressor lever at the same time as you push the start button to help the starter motor to turn the engine over fast enough to get it going (when you turn the decompressor lever back to the 'run' position), even with reduced power from the battery. Yes. Never tried it, but I know that when the compression is 'off' then it's easier to turn the engine.Ps. All the decompressor does is to lift one of the valves a little way off it's seating so there's no compression as the piston go over TDC at the end of compression stroke. Wouldn't that mean fuel is still being pumped in and the burning chamber will get flooded?
We don't have starting problems, I just fancied having a nice new starter battery and dumping the unknown make-or-model thing that came with the boat.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2018 19:16:00 GMT
Think yourself lucky Foxy, this bastard needs starting with your left leg not an electric motor. It's a 650cc two stroke, it too has a decompressor, but unlike yours it has no valves i n the head to hold off the seat. It does it by pulling a poppet valve screwed into the side of the cylinder barrel off its seat bleeding away some of the cylinder compression. Get it to just before TDC, swing for all your worth, keeping it decompressed until she crackles into life. No gym membership required when you regularly campaign one of these.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 10, 2018 19:21:11 GMT
Ps. All the decompressor does is to lift one of the valves a little way off it's seating so there's no compression as the piston go over TDC at the end of compression stroke. Wouldn't that mean fuel is still being pumped in and the burning chamber will get flooded?
Wouldn't that mean fuel is still being pumped in and the burning chamber will get flooded?
Yes, fuel will be injected into the combustion chamber on every second revolution of the crankshaft, but it's a very tiny quantity and, if your injector is in good working order, it's in the form of a very fine mist (some engine manufacturers from bygone days, Gardners for one, did actually refer to injectors as 'atomisers'), and, far from being harmful, can in fact, have some beneficial effects. For one, it helps a cold engine to turn over and start more easily by providing a bit of lubrication for (potentially) dry cylinder walls, and by in effect providing a 'richer' mix of fuel and air in much the same way as the choke works on a petrol (spark-ignition) engine. Another benefit, especially for engines that have stood idle and not run for a good while, is that being turned over off compression (and therefore not firing) is that the engine's (lubricating) oil pump can send some oil round and through all the potentially 'dry' bearings that the residual oil will have drained away from since the engine last ran.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 10, 2018 21:03:31 GMT
Yes, I've sometimes thought it an idea to hand crank the engine, with compression lever off, to gently lubricate it first. haven't done it yet, though. Our injector was tested by TW Marine 2.5 years ago and they declared it to be OK. No need to turn it over by hand, . . . just do it off compression and on the starter. Always a very worthwhile thing to do with any engine that stands idle for lengthy periods, . . . avoids any of the crankshaft/bottom-end bearings being put under any load before getting some lubrication round them. On some of the bigger marine engines in commercials, Kelvins for one, there's a hand pump which has to be operated until there's a few psi. showing on the oil pressure gauge before every cold start-up. As for getting injectors tested, there's no set period or running hours/time for doing this, . . and unless an engine becomes more reluctant to start than previously, or begins to emit black smoke towards the top end of it's rpm range, there's nothing to be gained by disturbing them just for the sake of having them checked on a test rig.
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