Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 29, 2018 8:15:36 GMT
I'm going to fit a couple of 36v minn kota pods to my yot - one each side of the rudder as a secondary propulsion system.
I've ordered the pods (much cheaper to just buy the lower unit and shaft then do your own controls than buying a whole outboard). They will be mounted in a fixed position on nylon "Stauff" hydraulic pipe clamps and easily removable. Steering will be with the rudder.
Anyway they are brushed motors so I will need two PWM speed controllers. I've ordered two el cheapo Chinese pwm units.
I'd like to put in more durable long lasting controllers. Anticipated maximum amp draw is 60a at 36v per unit. I'm putting in circuit breakers ib case of bad prop fouling. I'm sure it will mainly be in the 10-20a range as I can use the diesel for main propulsion anyway. The electric is for silent gliding about on smooth water on nice days.
So a 36v 50a PWM is the thing. I like finding secondhand equipment.
I wondered about a Curtis but do they allow reversing and is it possible to use them outside of their original design?
Another I have noticed is 4QD controllers. They sell some nice looking items but I wonder if they are the same as the Chinese stuff but with UK branding.
One obvious approach as it does not need to be 100% reliable is to use the Chinese ones and carry spares. Only takes a short time to change the wires over.
Has anyone else played with these toys ?
|
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Jun 29, 2018 12:21:17 GMT
Andrew the brushed electric motors are they PMM, serial or even shunt motors? if they are the perm magnet type then yes a reversible curtis controller exists I have one in my bathtub. If they are series motors then you need a reverse contactor and switch like I am buying for my big boat. I am not entirely sure whether your circuit breakers will be up to the job, I suspect they will pop open before you need them to. My bathtub can draw 120 amps at 24volts on full bore.
I am well versed in this now and a long way down the second conversion which because of the first has been a lot cheaper PM me if you want the hands on non engineer help lol
|
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Jun 29, 2018 12:28:34 GMT
I had a a look at the 4qd range but it wasnt capable of what I wanted it to do so have gone down the Curtis route
|
|
|
|
Post by bodger on Jun 29, 2018 12:33:23 GMT
I have a 32lb motor that draws about 30A. I bought a cheapo PWM controller on ebay and ripped out the Minn Kota control unit and wired the main red and black power cables into the PWM. The only mistake I made was to use a controller of insufficient rating. I burnt out the first unit (rated at 40A AFAIK). I replaced it with a heavier unit (rated at 100A max AFAIK) which works just fine, all day if necessary, although all the adjustment is in the last 20% of the potentiometer range. I also carry a spare. I extended the wires from the pot and the forward/reverse switch and fitted both the controls into a hand-held 'project box' suitably adapted for the purpose, with the wires protected in a length of rubber gas pipe. I have a 60A in-line breaker (also ebay with trip and reset buttons) wired into the red cable to the pod unit. All connections are made using red Andersen connectors. The only times the trip has operated was when caught up in weed and when negotiating a strong wake left by a silly Thames inter-lock racer (you know the type - must get to the next lock before the guy behind) causing the motor to labour in the peaks and troughs.
|
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Jun 29, 2018 20:44:23 GMT
I have a 32lb motor that draws about 30A. I bought a cheapo PWM controller on ebay and ripped out the Minn Kota control unit and wired the main red and black power cables into the PWM. The only mistake I made was to use a controller of insufficient rating. I burnt out the first unit (rated at 40A AFAIK). I replaced it with a heavier unit (rated at 100A max AFAIK) which works just fine, all day if necessary, although all the adjustment is in the last 20% of the potentiometer range. I also carry a spare. I extended the wires from the pot and the forward/reverse switch and fitted both the controls into a hand-held 'project box' suitably adapted for the purpose, with the wires protected in a length of rubber gas pipe. I have a 60A in-line breaker (also ebay with trip and reset buttons) wired into the red cable to the pod unit. All connections are made using red Andersen connectors. The only times the trip has operated was when caught up in weed and when negotiating a strong wake left by a silly Thames inter-lock racer (you know the type - must get to the next lock before the guy behind) causing the motor to labour in the peaks and troughs. The bathtub has a 200 amp cartridge fuse to go with the 200 amp curtis controller it was supplied as a kit with the Agni electric motor. My big boat has a 140 amp, 5.2kw, 48 volt series ex fork lift motor, I will be running it at a nominal 60 volt [69 really] its a direct drive system so I need a mcb breaker system to try to protect the motor in a case of a jam. I will doing the install in August after removing the Barrus shire 50 hp diesel engine happy days
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2018 18:18:58 GMT
Sounds like an interesting plan to replace a 50hp diesel with a 5kw (8hp?) electric. I really like the idea of electric but in my larger boats I think retaining a diesel as the primary propulsion unit is sensible. Would be interesting to know how you get on with it  I'll update this thread with further details of my electric power going on my 20ft Colvic. So far I have opted for cheap Chinese reversible 50a pwm units. £10 each I have bought spares. And also have diesel in there. Worth a play before deciding if its the right plan and spending ££££ on it. |
|
