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Post by Stumpy on Jul 7, 2016 9:07:04 GMT
Morning Chagall, Have you considered Jenolite rust remover?
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Post by Stumpy on Jul 7, 2016 9:32:35 GMT
Can you get underneath the motor and tray with a dog legged brush? IIRC from using it myself, you only have to remove the loose rust, then let the chemical do its business.
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Post by Stumpy on Jul 7, 2016 9:34:13 GMT
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Post by Stumpy on Jul 7, 2016 9:41:04 GMT
I think you can get dogged legged wire brushes as well
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Post by Clinton Cool on Jul 7, 2016 9:48:09 GMT
If you're going to use a rust remover/ convertor bear in mind that they are just that, not rust preventers. After treatment you need to paint the affected areas otherwise the rust will come back just as strongly.
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Post by JohnV on Jul 7, 2016 11:12:33 GMT
Having had a close association with two elderly steel boats (a pre 1910 BCN rubbish boat and a 1929 humber barge) I have used a wide variety of products over the years. Rust "removers" are great for small areas of lighter rusting where a high quality finish is going to be required after treatment. If you just want to stop or delay the damned stuff from eating your boat then an agent that kills or converts the rust is the answer (well for a while anyway ) The Tannic acid rust "converter" that I used with great success on Sabina H is unfortunately no longer made, It was developed by an industrial chemist called Harry Wheatcroft (more famous as a champion rose breeder) who sold his formula on. I believe it is the same one now sold as Fertan. I first visited Harry when he was still selling his product directly, when I bought 2 gallons of the stuff ......... I wish I had bought 10 times as much....... dammit !!!. You need to get rid of all the loose rust, but it is not necessary to wire brush, as long as you can get a stiff brush or a pokey stick at it and then vacuum out the rubbish that is usually good enough. The reason for getting rid of the loose stuff is that you don't want to waste the stuff converting rust that isn't attached, so the more you clear the deeper it penetrates. If you have left a thicker layer of rust than normal you need to really slop the chemical on, so that it converts all the rust, not just the surface layer. (I say slop it on, but be careful as it turns your skin black and it takes ages and ages to fade ......... don't ask me how I know) Once the rust has converted to iron tannate there is no real need to paint apart for cosmetic reasons. There are bits of Sabina (Engine room store locker for one) that are still tannate black after the best part of 20 years, with no sign of fresh rusting. This post was started about 45 (just checked was actually well over an hour !!!! must stop gassing as much !!!) minutes ago but I had a visitor turn up in the middle so there has been a delay in finishing/posting I don't think there is a truly foolproof method without aggressive surface preparation but this is the best I have found. Prior to discovering Tannic acid converters I never came across anything else that lasted.
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Post by JohnV on Jul 7, 2016 11:32:23 GMT
I would agree, you don't want it over the electricals, I haven't got a clue what it does to non ferrous anyway. Would it be possible to bag them in plastic to stop the spray contacting them?
Fertan rust converter is, as far as I am aware either the same or a variant of the chemical I used. but make sure you get the converter because they do umpteen other products,
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Post by kris on Jul 7, 2016 11:40:04 GMT
I like vactan for rust treatment though it's getting expensive. So have toyed with the idea of getting tannic acid seperatly, then applying a coat of pva when it's fineshed neutralizing the rust.
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Post by bills on Jul 7, 2016 11:54:02 GMT
Any views on the effectiveness Owlatrol compared with Vactan or Fertan? does it do the same job?
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Post by kris on Jul 7, 2016 11:59:56 GMT
I've never used owlatrol so can't really comment but i don't think it does the same thing.
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Post by JohnV on Jul 7, 2016 12:03:37 GMT
not used it ...... as you say the reviews seem good. I might buy a small bottle and try it out (I've quite a lot of rusty spots to experiment on)
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Post by JohnV on Jul 7, 2016 12:31:31 GMT
not used it ...... as you say the reviews seem good. I might buy a small bottle and try it out (I've quite a lot of rusty spots to experiment on) let me know what you think before I buy the industrial size! (my gas locker is beginning to look shameful too ) Having seen the photo's you posted of your boat, I suspect your idea and mine of shameful, may vary somewhat
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Post by JohnV on Jul 7, 2016 13:06:05 GMT
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Post by kris on Jul 7, 2016 13:44:30 GMT
Your kinda cheeting though John, because you removed the gleniffer. I'm Sure your engine room isn't that bad now.
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Post by kris on Jul 7, 2016 13:47:20 GMT
Having seen the photo's you posted of your boat, I suspect your idea and mine of shameful, may vary somewhat hah!... but I'm in the out of sight out of mind gang...hence the bowthruster compartment is utterly shameful. Can't quite work out the photo, but the rust just looks like surface rust.
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