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Post by ianali on Feb 6, 2019 15:21:11 GMT
Have a 4 x 4 foot sheet to fit to boat ceiling. Will it bend easily enough to fit roof curve?
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Post by Jim on Feb 6, 2019 15:45:10 GMT
Have a 4 x 4 foot sheet to fit to boat ceiling. Will it bend easily enough to fit roof curve? Yes. |
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Post by ianali on Feb 6, 2019 15:48:14 GMT
Have a 4 x 4 foot sheet to fit to boat ceiling. Will it bend easily enough to fit roof curve? Yes. Thanks. I am an engines etc man, woodwork scares me. |
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Post by phil70 on Feb 6, 2019 16:02:24 GMT
Thanks. I am an engines etc man, woodwork scares me. Woodworm scares me more. Phil |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2019 16:03:39 GMT
It does depend on the curve.
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Post by bodger on Feb 6, 2019 16:49:18 GMT
also depends on the quality of the ply. I worked 4mm marine 3-ply into a 400mm radius, after several attempts and lots of wetting overnight, but when I tried to bend 5 or 6mm it was much too stiff.
my maffs is rusty but I've got an inkling that stiffness is a function of the thickness to the 4th power.... comparing, that is 256 for 4mm, 625 for 5mm and 1296 for 6mm.
6mm ply may be too stiff to do it with ease, or it may be too fragile to bend without falling apart. 'veneered ply' covers a variety of sins. birch ply is often used as the basis for veneered furniture ply, and it is very very stiff.
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Post by Jim on Feb 6, 2019 17:54:06 GMT
A boat roof is only a shallow curve, try it on the outside first. When I fitted the roof in my shell I found a bit of twobyone an inch of so longer than floor to ceiling height and was able to wedge the ply in place while I got the screws in.
Wood worries me too, I prefer metal.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2019 18:05:49 GMT
They do vary. Some boats were built with very curved cabin tops I think it was some sort of cost saving measure as it only seemed to affect the cheaper boats in general. Perhaps it was so that no extra stiffeners or frames were needed and you would not tend to get ripples.
I much prefer an almost flat but not flat cabin top but that needs properly formed internal framing which is going to add to the cost.
Canal boats look much better like that.
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Post by ianali on Feb 6, 2019 18:13:09 GMT
A boat roof is only a shallow curve, try it on the outside first. When I fitted the roof in my shell I found a bit of twobyone an inch of so longer than floor to ceiling height and was able to wedge the ply in place while I got the screws in. Wood worries me too, I prefer metal. That’s a great suggestion. I’m fairly confident that the ply will flex ok. Was more worried about holding it in position prior to fitting the screws.Cheers. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2019 18:17:30 GMT
Hold it up with your head? If you are not tall enough stand on something  |
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Post by ianali on Feb 6, 2019 18:18:36 GMT
Hold it up with your head? If you are not tall enough stand on something It’s above the bed.. wifey would be a perfect fit I reckon |
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Post by faffer on Feb 6, 2019 18:22:15 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2019 21:58:49 GMT
Lined my ceiling with 5mm, piece of cake to get the curve if you have the Batons in place
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Post by JohnV on Feb 7, 2019 7:53:17 GMT
Although a little bit off subject (what a surprise on TB  ) this is close to it. This is more for the very early stages of fitting out ...... if you have an area of bare steel to clad, that has no frames or stiffeners at suitable spacings, a common method of providing fixings is to weld on little square tags with holes in, to screw the battens to. Don't try and just weld the tags on to a chalk line, they will invariably twist or go out of line. Screw the damn things to a spare batten, wedge it in place and then weld. Guarantees to get them square and in the correct line. don't half make it quicker and easier. |
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Post by Jim on Feb 7, 2019 18:09:45 GMT
Although a little bit off subject (what a surprise on TB ) this is close to it. This is more for the very early stages of fitting out ...... if you have an area of bare steel to clad, that has no frames or stiffeners at suitable spacings, a common method of providing fixings is to weld on little square tags with holes in, to screw the battens to. Don't try and just weld the tags on to a chalk line, they will invariably twist or go out of line. Screw the damn things to a spare batten, wedge it in place and then weld. Guarantees to get them square and in the correct line. don't half make it quicker and easier. I just glued the battens direct onto the steel with a petroleum based grab adhesive, polyurethane squidge would work too. |
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) this is close to it.