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Post by Gone on Aug 26, 2019 15:39:18 GMT
You really should get the medical grade stuff, it's a cyanide product (ethyl cyanoacrylate) so worth the extra caution. At minimum you should be familiar with the symptoms of cyanide poisoning before you go squirting it in a wound, look out for your patient going bright red and struggling to breath. Can kill in extreme cases, it's a bit like carbon monoxide poisoning, it stops the haemoglobin in your blood from releasing its oxygen.
A relative managed to give themselves cyanide poisoning by gluing a dental crown back on. Spent a day in hospital on an oxygen mask.
Its a fair point. Sounds like your relative actually swallowed the stuff though. I must say I would hesitate to use it on anyone else in this litigious culture. I used to know a chap who was really into RC aircraft, and he was forever slicing his fingers with a scalpel (or whatever it was) as he repaired his latest crash. He constantly glued himself up with no obvious bad effects. But he was also a big hashish fan so he may not have noticed... could this explain why he needed to constantly carry out crash repairs?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2019 15:56:30 GMT
Its a fair point. Sounds like your relative actually swallowed the stuff though. I must say I would hesitate to use it on anyone else in this litigious culture. I used to know a chap who was really into RC aircraft, and he was forever slicing his fingers with a scalpel (or whatever it was) as he repaired his latest crash. He constantly glued himself up with no obvious bad effects. But he was also a big hashish fan so he may not have noticed... could this explain why he needed to constantly carry out crash repairs? I just knew someone would make that comment. Actually he was a quite good pilot, but he had a habit of constantly pushing the boundaries. It seems to go with the territory.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 27, 2019 20:38:14 GMT
Top tip regarding straightening the door out with weights, it's perfect now! Table and cupboards all constructed now, ready to be fitted. There's always something though isn't there...
My tv aerial relies on a booster box, I can't get any channels unless that's connected up. This job will involve moving the tv a foot or so along the room which makes the lead from the booster box to the tv too short. No problem I thought, couple of quid off ebay. The connection, rather than being a push fit is one of those silly screw on things with a thin pin in the middle. Had a look on Ebay, they are described as 'satellite connector', ordered one of the correct length. Tried to fit it earlier but the screw thread on the new one is very slightly smaller the old one. It so close that I can get it on a couple of turns, enough for the pin to make some contact. But when I switch the tv on I'm down to 10 channels rather than 100. Switching back to the original lead I'm back to 100 channels, so the new lead is definitely the culprit, one way or another.
I'm at a loss what to do, technology and everything that goes with it definitely isn't one of my strong areas. Could I maybe cut through the original lead and piece in a foot or two of the new stuff? Any other ideas?
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Post by Gone on Aug 27, 2019 21:20:24 GMT
Top tip regarding straightening the door out with weights, it's perfect now! Table and cupboards all constructed now, ready to be fitted. There's always something though isn't there... My tv aerial relies on a booster box, I can't get any channels unless that's connected up. This job will involve moving the tv a foot or so along the room which makes the lead from the booster box to the tv too short. No problem I thought, couple of quid off ebay. The connection, rather than being a push fit is one of those silly screw on things with a thin pin in the middle. Had a look on Ebay, they are described as 'satellite connector', ordered one of the correct length. Tried to fit it earlier but the screw thread on the new one is very slightly smaller the old one. It so close that I can get it on a couple of turns, enough for the pin to make some contact. But when I switch the tv on I'm down to 10 channels rather than 100. Switching back to the original lead I'm back to 100 channels, so the new lead is definitely the culprit, one way or another. I'm at a loss what to do, technology and everything that goes with it definitely isn't one of my strong areas. Could I maybe cut through the original lead and piece in a foot or two of the new stuff? Any other ideas? They are F connectors, get em in toolstation. When you fit them they need to screw onto the braid and not the outer plastic sheaf. Sometimes they are a bit tight, but as the cable (if itβs good will have a foam type inner) is plastic it will squash as you screw it on. You just need strong thumbs. every time you join coax you loose some signal, so you donβt want to introduce unnecessary joints. The thin pin in the middle is the inner core of the coax. Added i assume you mean this type of connector www.toolstation.com/proception-f-plug/p56253if you must join coax, then one would normally terminate the cables with F connectors and join with a coupler, if you just join coax like you would a dc cable you will loose most of your signal. A coupler is like this www.toolstation.com/proception-inline-coupler/p97650if the connection into the tv is not an f connector it is probably one of the old style coax connectors.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 27, 2019 22:53:18 GMT
Top tip regarding straightening the door out with weights, it's perfect now! Table and cupboards all constructed now, ready to be fitted. There's always something though isn't there... My tv aerial relies on a booster box, I can't get any channels unless that's connected up. This job will involve moving the tv a foot or so along the room which makes the lead from the booster box to the tv too short. No problem I thought, couple of quid off ebay. The connection, rather than being a push fit is one of those silly screw on things with a thin pin in the middle. Had a look on Ebay, they are described as 'satellite connector', ordered one of the correct length. Tried to fit it earlier but the screw thread on the new one is very slightly smaller the old one. It so close that I can get it on a couple of turns, enough for the pin to make some contact. But when I switch the tv on I'm down to 10 channels rather than 100. Switching back to the original lead I'm back to 100 channels, so the new lead is definitely the culprit, one way or another. I'm at a loss what to do, technology and everything that goes with it definitely isn't one of my strong areas. Could I maybe cut through the original lead and piece in a foot or two of the new stuff? Any other ideas? They are F connectors, get em in toolstation. When you fit them they need to screw onto the braid and not the outer plastic sheaf. Sometimes they are a bit tight, but as the cable (if itβs good will have a foam type inner) is plastic it will squash as you screw it on. You just need strong thumbs. every time you join coax you loose some signal, so you donβt want to introduce unnecessary joints. The thin pin in the middle is the inner core of the coax. Added i assume you mean this type of connector www.toolstation.com/proception-f-plug/p56253if you must join coax, then one would normally terminate the cables with F connectors and join with a coupler, if you just join coax like you would a dc cable you will loose most of your signal. A coupler is like this www.toolstation.com/proception-inline-coupler/p97650if the connection into the tv is not an f connector it is probably one of the old style coax connectors. Cheers for that. I've been playing around; by swapping the lead from the aerial port to the booster with the one from the booster to the t.v. I now have perfect reception. I'm not going to try to work out why this is, just happy that it now works. The final dilemma with this job: The cupboards are going to hang on a panelling wall, I think it's hardboard. It seems quite thin, flexes quite easily. Unfortunately there's no wood support behind where I'm going to place one of the cupboards. On a more positive note the bottom of each cupboard will rest on a skirting board, taking the weight. I guess each cupboard, including the door will weight around 6 kilos. Bearing in mind the skirting board I'm hoping to get away with screwing it to the wall with woodscrews and brackets. Is this foolhardy?
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Post by bodger on Aug 28, 2019 7:11:35 GMT
so there will be a gap under the cupboard, so that the whole weight of the cupboard is cantilevering off the wall with the top of the skirting acting as the fulcrum? Not a good idea. If you insert a support under the front of the cupboards then the wall joint is just cosmetic (or should be) and a suitable flexible seal could be used. You don't need a continuous support, just at the cupboard strong points (frames that run back to front if you have any).
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 28, 2019 16:29:38 GMT
so there will be a gap under the cupboard, so that the whole weight of the cupboard is cantilevering off the wall with the top of the skirting acting as the fulcrum? Not a good idea. If you insert a support under the front of the cupboards then the wall joint is just cosmetic (or should be) and a suitable flexible seal could be used. You don't need a continuous support, just at the cupboard strong points (frames that run back to front if you have any). Must be honest, I did realise that the wall was mostly hollow before I started, didn't think too much about it at the time though I did consider taking the cupboards right down to the floor but decided it wouldn't look neat. Plus, the various wires for the t.v. etc would then run round the front of the cupboards into the room, would look a bit of a mess. So, I built the cupboards at the full height but cut the bottom of the sides of a unit, below the bottom shelf, which sits just above the skirting board, at an angle. This results in around an inch of timber sitting on the floor (against the skirting board) and a rather pleasing looking angle up to the full cupboard depth. Won't be so pleasing if they fall off the wall though!
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Post by Gone on Aug 28, 2019 19:33:55 GMT
so there will be a gap under the cupboard, so that the whole weight of the cupboard is cantilevering off the wall with the top of the skirting acting as the fulcrum? Not a good idea. If you insert a support under the front of the cupboards then the wall joint is just cosmetic (or should be) and a suitable flexible seal could be used. You don't need a continuous support, just at the cupboard strong points (frames that run back to front if you have any). Must be honest, I did realise that the wall was mostly hollow before I started, didn't think too much about it at the time though I did consider taking the cupboards right down to the floor but decided it wouldn't look neat. Plus, the various wires for the t.v. etc would then run round the front of the cupboards into the room, would look a bit of a mess. So, I built the cupboards at the full height but cut the bottom of the sides of a unit, below the bottom shelf, which sits just above the skirting board, at an angle. This results in around an inch of timber sitting on the floor (against the skirting board) and a rather pleasing looking angle up to the full cupboard depth. Won't be so pleasing if they fall off the wall though! Normally there a small plinth under the cupboard inset at the front. That way you have support, and a dead space for cables, pipes etc.
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