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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 28, 2019 11:27:38 GMT
My next job is to de rust and paint the cratch. It's been neglected, it's in a terrible state, a mixture of various paints and heavy rust. I have a grinder which I used to de rust areas of my roof prior to painting. This worked OK, using flap disks but was heavy on the disks. If I were to use flap disks in the cratch I'd need dozens of them. I've never used grinding disks, would these be a better bet? It wouldn't matter if they left scour marks. How many might I need to do the cratch? It's probably an average size.
The other thing is there will be lots of bits of rust, paint and other crap swirling around when I do the job. I'll raise the cover, but still... I have some of those paper masks but find them virtually useless, half the air you breathe just goes round the side of them. Can you get masks that actually work or wouldn't you bother, just get on with it?
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Post by kris on Sept 28, 2019 11:40:10 GMT
Id wear some safety glasses as well.
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Post by bodger on Sept 28, 2019 11:40:36 GMT
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Post by Gone on Sept 28, 2019 13:37:42 GMT
My next job is to de rust and paint the cratch. It's been neglected, it's in a terrible state, a mixture of various paints and heavy rust. I have a grinder which I used to de rust areas of my roof prior to painting. This worked OK, using flap disks but was heavy on the disks. If I were to use flap disks in the cratch I'd need dozens of them. I've never used grinding disks, would these be a better bet? It wouldn't matter if they left scour marks. How many might I need to do the cratch? It's probably an average size. The other thing is there will be lots of bits of rust, paint and other crap swirling around when I do the job. I'll raise the cover, but still... I have some of those paper masks but find them virtually useless, half the air you breathe just goes round the side of them. Can you get masks that actually work or wouldn't you bother, just get on with it? I have used these, but press only lightly and expect about a square meter or so per disc. It's good for getting the loose surface stuff off, not so good for cutting through many layers of sound paint. Buy a couple and see how you get on. www.toolstation.com/abracs-poly-abrasive-disc/p22693As to masks, I also have trouble with paper masks and use one of these - www.toolstation.com/jsp-force8-mask-with-p3-presstocheck-filters/p80177if you have trouble sealing it to your face a smear of Vaseline on the sealing edge can help. As to not using a mask, your lungs are not good at dealing with dust, especially fine dust, and once it is in your lungs it just sits there and causes trouble, not worth the risk. And don't forget the beanie hat, you will be glad you wore one. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 28, 2019 13:48:39 GMT
To get the heavy rust off I would go with a ball pein hammer and just repeatedly whack it really hard. Then brush and dustpan to sweep up the flakes.
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Post by lollygagger on Sept 28, 2019 14:11:01 GMT
I've bare metalled half the side of my boat with a poly abrasive disc and it only half wore out if that. They disintegrate on hard edges so not great on pitted rust but their advantage is they won't damage steel as a grinding disk does.
I agree with MM - hammer or cold chisel (without hammer) to break off all the crusty expanded stuff first.
A photo of the offending area would yield better advice. One mans heavy rust is another man's surface rust and flakey paint.
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Post by thebfg on Sept 28, 2019 15:35:18 GMT
That is similar to what we were when we explore really dusty/ full of pigeon shit places. |
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Post by peterboat on Sept 28, 2019 18:53:54 GMT
I had the well deck glass blasted when it was in dry dock last year, it cost £80 and was well worth it shiny steel perfik to Zinger and then paint it, I gave it another cout the other week after spraying the bow and well deck area
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Post by Jim on Sept 29, 2019 6:21:53 GMT
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