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Post by lollygagger on Dec 14, 2019 17:24:18 GMT
Rufford. I'll get there. Perhaps I'll try anthracite.
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Post by peterboat on Dec 14, 2019 20:14:22 GMT
Rufford. I'll get there. Perhaps I'll try anthracite. Mix it with some smokeless because it can be a bit of a bugger, its great in my Rayburn but useless in the boatman stove without some help |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2019 20:25:10 GMT
Maybe one of these would help with the anthracite  |
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paulj
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Post by paulj on Dec 15, 2019 20:17:21 GMT
Are you running your pump /controller through a thermostatic switch?
I couldnt see any mention of one.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 16, 2019 7:41:17 GMT
Are you running your pump /controller through a thermostatic switch? I couldnt see any mention of one. That was going to be stage 2. However, I now have a water cooled stove that heats feck all. Back to the drawing board.  |
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paulj
Junior Member
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Post by paulj on Dec 16, 2019 9:19:13 GMT
Are you running your pump /controller through a thermostatic switch? I couldnt see any mention of one. That was going to be stage 2. However, I now have a water cooled stove that heats feck all. Back to the drawing board. They are dirt cheap. I would fit one as close to the boiler as is possible. Set it between 40-50 C. Much higher than that and I find that as the switch takes a while to warm up and work it all starts to boil in the back boiler if your stove is running hard. Run the pump slowish and as long as it is all circulating properly you will find this should make a difference. And if nothing else you will never have to worry about switching your pump on or (more usefully) off again so thats got to be worth a tenner or so :-) |
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 16, 2019 12:20:58 GMT
That was going to be stage 2. However, I now have a water cooled stove that heats feck all. Back to the drawing board. They are dirt cheap. I would fit one as close to the boiler as is possible. Set it between 40-50 C. Much higher than that and I find that as the switch takes a while to warm up and work it all starts to boil in the back boiler if your stove is running hard. Run the pump slowish and as long as it is all circulating properly you will find this should make a difference. And if nothing else you will never have to worry about switching your pump on or (more usefully) off again so thats got to be worth a tenner or so :-) Thanks for the advice, but maybe you haven't been paying attention? I now have a water cooled stove, it ain't going to boil! If I ever get a reasonable amount of heat out of it THEN I'll move on to controlling it.  |
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Post by peterboat on Dec 16, 2019 12:33:06 GMT
They are dirt cheap. I would fit one as close to the boiler as is possible. Set it between 40-50 C. Much higher than that and I find that as the switch takes a while to warm up and work it all starts to boil in the back boiler if your stove is running hard. Run the pump slowish and as long as it is all circulating properly you will find this should make a difference. And if nothing else you will never have to worry about switching your pump on or (more usefully) off again so thats got to be worth a tenner or so :-) Thanks for the advice, but maybe you haven't been paying attention? I now have a water cooled stove, it ain't going to boil! If I ever get a reasonable amount of heat out of it THEN I'll move on to controlling it. No he is right I have a switch in mine just the same, I thought you had one in place otherwise I would have told you, if you dont do it the water will never get hot enough and the resulting condensation on the backboiler will rot it out |
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paulj
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Post by paulj on Dec 16, 2019 14:10:10 GMT
They are dirt cheap. I would fit one as close to the boiler as is possible. Set it between 40-50 C. Much higher than that and I find that as the switch takes a while to warm up and work it all starts to boil in the back boiler if your stove is running hard. Run the pump slowish and as long as it is all circulating properly you will find this should make a difference. And if nothing else you will never have to worry about switching your pump on or (more usefully) off again so thats got to be worth a tenner or so :-) Thanks for the advice, but maybe you haven't been paying attention? I now have a water cooled stove, it ain't going to boil! If I ever get a reasonable amount of heat out of it THEN I'll move on to controlling it. Yep been paying attention and reckon if I understand your post correctly you are not far from cracking it. You wont get a decent amount of heat out of your system until you control it. You are cooling faster than you can heat it. Ive done quite a few over the years including doing just this on existing poorly designed systems that rads 'never got hot' and relied purely on a switch to operate the pump-(and my only heating system is twenty plus years old backboiler/pumped/rads too) |
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 17, 2019 7:52:00 GMT
No.
I am controlling it with a 0-100% PWM controller with a digital display. I can set the pump anywhere between 0 and 15l/min. The back boiler cannot heat the coolant faster than 2x30ft of pipe and one 2kw rad loose it. I've had that circuit up to 30-40 degs then that's it. Slow the pump and the rad stays cold, speed it up and the whole circuit gradually cools.
Next plan is see if it can manage a towel rail type rad that's half way between the boiler and the rad we wanted working. Then fit a second stove in the rear of the boat. I've got the one we swapped out for the "boiler" stove c/w flue.
It seems you can get stoves that are more biased towards heating water, but the nearest I can find to our needs is 2kw to stove room and 9kw to coolant - too big I think and right now I think throwing the additional fuel on a second stove would be more cost efficient and more effective.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2019 7:59:25 GMT
Fitting two stoves on long narrow boats is definitely a good plan if there is space for it to be done.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 17, 2019 8:04:37 GMT
Fitting two stoves on long narrow boats is definitely a good plan if there is space for it to be done. There is space. A working rad would have been better but...I wonder if a stainless cutting blade in a jig saw would do the roof hole...where no doubt I'll hit a chunk of hidden angle iron or something just to make it harder...hearth to build first. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2019 8:09:48 GMT
People do sometimes use slitting discs for that but the techniques I have used were a ring of holes close together then joined up with a jigsaw and just jigsaw by itself.
DeWalt metal cutting blades were good.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2019 10:21:30 GMT
No. I am controlling it with a 0-100% PWM controller with a digital display. I can set the pump anywhere between 0 and 15l/min. The back boiler cannot heat the coolant faster than 2x30ft of pipe and one 2kw rad loose it. I've had that circuit up to 30-40 degs then that's it. Slow the pump and the rad stays cold, speed it up and the whole circuit gradually cools. Next plan is see if it can manage a towel rail type rad that's half way between the boiler and the rad we wanted working. Then fit a second stove in the rear of the boat. I've got the one we swapped out for the "boiler" stove c/w flue. It seems you can get stoves that are more biased towards heating water, but the nearest I can find to our needs is 2kw to stove room and 9kw to coolant - too big I think and right now I think throwing the additional fuel on a second stove would be more cost efficient and more effective. Think outside the boiler....... 1, Turn pump off, 2, Allow boiler to get very hot ( it should do if there is no circulation ) 3, Turn pump on long enough to pump water out of boiler You now have cold water in boiler and a slug of hot water in the pipes. Repeat steps 1,2,3 If this results in hot pipes it can be automated by using a pipe stat  |
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 17, 2019 10:45:16 GMT
Yeah, tried that. Tried inching up the pump speed ensuring the out pipe remains hot. I get to a point after about 4 hours where the whole rad is...warm and warm is coming back to the pump with hotter leaving the boiler. At that point you'd expect it gradually build up heat? It doesn't whether I slow, leave and speed up the pump.
Obviously also tried leaving it at all speeds for hours on end and the above is the only way I eventually get tepid coolant back at the pump. It needs a certain amount of pump speed to circulate usefully.
Honest, it's too small/inefficient boiler. I hate plumbing.
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