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Post by peterboat on Dec 17, 2019 12:22:23 GMT
Yeah, tried that. Tried inching up the pump speed ensuring the out pipe remains hot. I get to a point after about 4 hours where the whole rad is...warm and warm is coming back to the pump with hotter leaving the boiler. At that point you'd expect it gradually build up heat? It doesn't whether I slow, leave and speed up the pump. Obviously also tried leaving it at all speeds for hours on end and the above is the only way I eventually get tepid coolant back at the pump. It needs a certain amount of pump speed to circulate usefully. Honest, it's too small/inefficient boiler. I hate plumbing. I agree with you and to that end I would put in a bigger backboiler stove if possible first, you have done all the hard work with the plumbing, alternatively can you run the webasto and backboiler in tandem? the gain is that the webasto would stop heating as the stove took over, this is what I did in the last and this boat works well and = very quick heat up of the system from cold
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 17, 2019 12:27:33 GMT
Yeah, tried that. Tried inching up the pump speed ensuring the out pipe remains hot. I get to a point after about 4 hours where the whole rad is...warm and warm is coming back to the pump with hotter leaving the boiler. At that point you'd expect it gradually build up heat? It doesn't whether I slow, leave and speed up the pump. Obviously also tried leaving it at all speeds for hours on end and the above is the only way I eventually get tepid coolant back at the pump. It needs a certain amount of pump speed to circulate usefully. Honest, it's too small/inefficient boiler. I hate plumbing. I agree with you and to that end I would put in a bigger backboiler stove if possible first, you have done all the hard work with the plumbing, alternatively can you run the webasto and backboiler in tandem? the gain is that the webasto would stop heating as the stove took over, this is what I did in the last and this boat works well and = very quick heat up of the system from cold I thought I'd try that, I plumbed it so I could. The Webasto fired up then after a few minutes started making a loud squealing noise so I switched it off. It didn't run down it stopped dead when I hit the off button. Must be the circulation pump?
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Post by Andyberg on Dec 17, 2019 12:35:43 GMT
I agree with you and to that end I would put in a bigger backboiler stove if possible first, you have done all the hard work with the plumbing, alternatively can you run the webasto and backboiler in tandem? the gain is that the webasto would stop heating as the stove took over, this is what I did in the last and this boat works well and = very quick heat up of the system from cold I thought I'd try that, I plumbed it so I could. The Webasto fired up then after a few minutes started making a loud squealing noise so I switched it off. It didn't run down it stopped dead when I hit the off button. Must be the circulation pump? That high pitched squeal is airlocked webasto waterpump, undo clip on pipe out of webasto body at its joint to rad circuit, wiggle it about as you start webasto and bleed air out there! π ( that is presuming you opened your isolator valvesπππ)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2019 12:36:30 GMT
I recently put a little Refleks 66 diesel heater in one of my boats. It's excellent. Just leave it ticking over. it does soot up a bit but not world ending and puts a nice steady heat. Really good in future I will fit one of them on any boat I happen to own as it is the best form of heating I have come across after a multifuel stove.
It's a bit more expensive than the coal but not much more and the 24/7 nature of it makes it very satisfactory actually. No electric and a 70mm flue size so it's not too invasive. Great item actually.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 17, 2019 12:39:37 GMT
I thought I'd try that, I plumbed it so I could. The Webasto fired up then after a few minutes started making a loud squealing noise so I switched it off. It didn't run down it stopped dead when I hit the off button. Must be the circulation pump? That high pitched squeal is airlocked webasto waterpump, undo clip on pipe out of webasto body at its joint to rad circuit, wiggle it about as you start webasto and bleed air out there! π ( that is presuming you opened your isolator valvesπππ) That's good news. The back boiler is convincingly heating a chrome type bathroom radiator that's only 15ft away. That's something I guess.
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Post by Andyberg on Dec 17, 2019 12:43:36 GMT
That high pitched squeal is airlocked webasto waterpump, undo clip on pipe out of webasto body at its joint to rad circuit, wiggle it about as you start webasto and bleed air out there! π ( that is presuming you opened your isolator valvesπππ) That's good news. The back boiler is convincingly heating a chrome type bathroom radiator that's only 15ft away. That's something I guess. Iβve all webasto spares here if you ever need anything. But wiggle that pipe and air / water will sqirt out.π (obviously, dont do it when its hot unless youβre stupid hard like me! π)
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 21, 2019 14:19:51 GMT
I now have pipe thermostat.
I could wire in the supply to the PWM speed controller, or between the PWM and the pump.
Neither work. The pump pumps the whole time whatever I set the stat at. It's "on" at a settable temp 0-40degs C. It's about 12c in the boat so turning the dial up to max (40) should show open circuit...but doesn't according to my multi meter on ohms. Maybe it's a duff stat...
Any suggestions?
Another problem is the pump stutters rather than starting at lower speeds. I guess it doesn't like the PWM much. Damn this heating malarky!
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Post by peterboat on Dec 21, 2019 17:09:46 GMT
I now have pipe thermostat. I could wire in the supply to the PWM speed controller, or between the PWM and the pump. Neither work. The pump pumps the whole time whatever I set the stat at. It's "on" at a settable temp 0-40degs C. It's about 12c in the boat so turning the dial up to max (40) should show open circuit...but doesn't according to my multi meter on ohms. Maybe it's a duff stat... Any suggestions? Another problem is the pump stutters rather than starting at lower speeds. I guess it doesn't like the PWM much. Damn this heating malarky! Yes you have wired it wrong, have a look at the instructions it can be either a off stat or on stat! ask me how I know
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Post by JohnV on Dec 21, 2019 17:20:57 GMT
some of them have a heating element built in to equalise the temperature range ..... there should have been a diagram with it (also some of them are a changeover contacts)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2019 17:36:27 GMT
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paulj
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Post by paulj on Dec 21, 2019 20:22:18 GMT
Another problem is the pump stutters rather than starting at lower speeds. I guess it doesn't like the PWM much. Damn this heating malarky! Damn! I was so impressed with your controller with the read out that I went out and ordered one. I have a pwm controller already (with no read out) but it erm stutters and wont start the motor at low speeds...π
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 22, 2019 7:55:07 GMT
I now have pipe thermostat. I could wire in the supply to the PWM speed controller, or between the PWM and the pump. Neither work. The pump pumps the whole time whatever I set the stat at. It's "on" at a settable temp 0-40degs C. It's about 12c in the boat so turning the dial up to max (40) should show open circuit...but doesn't according to my multi meter on ohms. Maybe it's a duff stat... Any suggestions? Another problem is the pump stutters rather than starting at lower speeds. I guess it doesn't like the PWM much. Damn this heating malarky! Yes you have wired it wrong, have a look at the instructions it can be either a off stat or on stat! ask me how I know Yes to all that. I have the right type, I have a diagram, I have it wired the right way round, though it does nothing either way. It's as simple as a switch to wire.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 22, 2019 7:56:48 GMT
More or less what I have except my whole unit straps to the pipe.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 22, 2019 8:06:32 GMT
some of them have a heating element built in to equalise the temperature range ..... there should have been a diagram with it (also some of them are a changeover contacts) I don't think this has, it has two wires that should join (make) at an adjustable temp, then open again as the temp drops. One would have thought turning the adjustment between 0 and 40Β°c on it's dial with a multimeter connected across the terminals in a 10-15Β°c atmosphere would show open circuit at some point?
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 22, 2019 10:16:34 GMT
Hmm... I have it on top of the stove connected to the multimeter and it seems to work today??!!??
Some clues for where to wire because I don't know.
The PWM controller on/off switch isn't on/off. Each time it's pressed it sends 12v to "something" in the controller that then switches it to the opposite state. It doesn't physically make and break the circuit.
Each time I connect it, the PWM switches the pump on. To switch it off needs another pulse via it's on/off button, or disconnect the supply.
I think I've answered my own question by writing it out - the pipe stat should be in the feed to the PWM?
I must have offended Nick, sorry Nick for not knowing the details of the pump electronics or stating earlier than I did that someone else had one that they controlled successfully with PWM. If that's it.
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