|
Post by Andyberg on Dec 22, 2019 22:35:52 GMT
Actually this thread has resulted in me investigating my central heating, which is why that pic was available to takeπ When running my webasto alls good (not using the thermo switch/ pump), but since fitting my front room radiator and moving my switch, Iβd noticed my rads werent getting as hot as they used to when using my Bubble stove( I originally put it down to starting burning kerosene on it). After reading this thread and with closer inspection, I saw Iβd knocked the switch to pump permanently on, now put back to 45β and alls good again. So...your incompetence has been responsible for making my sytem super efficient again...Thanks palπ My bubble is on kero as well it burns much cleaner [glass cleaning occasionally rather than after every use] the btus for kero is only slightly lower than diesel, and have you adjusted the toby valve to suit Its somewhere near, cant seem to get it burning perfectly βblueβ like it did with the red diesel but its near and doesn't soot up the glass etc... Any tips for getting it perfect?
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Dec 23, 2019 9:05:58 GMT
My bubble is on kero as well it burns much cleaner [glass cleaning occasionally rather than after every use] the btus for kero is only slightly lower than diesel, and have you adjusted the toby valve to suit Its somewhere near, cant seem to get it burning perfectly βblueβ like it did with the red diesel but its near and doesn't soot up the glass etc... Any tips for getting it perfect? Just the smallest of turns on the high and low screw and leave it to stabalise
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Dec 23, 2019 9:25:40 GMT
Its somewhere near, cant seem to get it burning perfectly βblueβ like it did with the red diesel but its near and doesn't soot up the glass etc... Any tips for getting it perfect? Just the smallest of turns on the high and low screw and leave it to stabalise Ah! But which way?
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Dec 23, 2019 9:43:26 GMT
Just the smallest of turns on the high and low screw and leave it to stabalise Ah! But which way? Google toby valve its years since I did mine and I cant remember
|
|
|
Post by Andyberg on Dec 23, 2019 9:52:29 GMT
Just the smallest of turns on the high and low screw and leave it to stabalise Ah! But which way? You'll be able tell by the flame quality once its stabilised...Its a time consuming job which is why I gave up when i got it somewhere near.π€
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2019 10:01:30 GMT
It's very impressive.
|
|
|
Post by Andyberg on Dec 23, 2019 10:10:12 GMT
Thereβs literally minutes of work gone into achieving that flame before I got bored of fiddling! π
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2019 10:16:08 GMT
I was just amazed a Porsche driver would be competent enough to carry out such a technical task.
|
|
|
Post by Andyberg on Dec 23, 2019 10:18:51 GMT
I was just amazed a Porsche driver would be competent enough to carry out such a technical task. I actually got my Skoda driving mate to share knowledge! π
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2019 10:23:40 GMT
That's good. I have noticed a link between Skoda drivers and high levels of technical knowledge. No idea why it is.
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Dec 23, 2019 13:10:44 GMT
It is a long job but worth it in the end mine can sit on the 1 setting with just a hint of blue flame or the 6 with a huge blue flame! but its always blue
|
|
|
Post by lollygagger on Dec 30, 2019 10:19:57 GMT
Last PWM question, admittedly one I could probably work out if I tried harder but it's Christmas... On hook up. Batteries a bit boogered. Pump running on PWM. Wired direct to batteries via mahoosive (16mm??) cables. If I turn on a light, the water pump or anything 12v, the pump speeds up. The more things I turn on the faster it goes. The displayed % on the PWM stays constant. This is one of those things where I know the answer is simple, but my brain refuses to think it through. I should measure the voltage at the PWM input while I switch things on and off I expect but I prefer pondering. For instance, I would have thought switching things on would lower the volts all round and slow the pump.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2019 10:24:46 GMT
Is it because when you switch things on your battery charger compensates immediately by raising the voltage of the batteries ?
You said you are on mains electric.
Perhaps the fact the batteries are a bit shagged means that the charger overcompensates.
Bit odd but can't think of any other reason.
On my barge which is on mains electric I use an old Truecharge 20i multi stage charger. It has a remote panel with LED bars to indicate voltage and amps.
As soon as I operate 12v lights or pump the amps go up and the voltage sometimes blips up as well.
|
|
|
Post by peterboat on Dec 30, 2019 10:30:52 GMT
^^^^what he said
|
|
|
Post by lollygagger on Dec 30, 2019 10:47:45 GMT
I'm going to have to do some V measuring.
Think batteries could be knackered because there was a bank of four dead ones when I got the boat, I replaced with two and suspect the charger whacks too many amps at them. I really should buy a lead so I can find out what it's doing via my laptop before I replace the batteries. I'm almost sure it's always on even when everything 12v is off. It would be better to have no batteries and a transformer, it's just lights and water/shower pump.
|
|