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Post by Telemachus on Jan 22, 2020 9:55:50 GMT
The primary advantages of LiFePO4 for live-aboards, is the ability for the battery to absorb huge amounts of current right up to the point where it is nearly fully charged, and the absence of any need to ever get the batteries fully charged. Of course the first benefit to some extent depends on ones charging capability. If you have a 35A alternator, you are still going to need hours of running. If like us you have 175A alternator, you can put 175Ah into the batteries in an hour of running which, for most people, would be plenty for a day’s worth of power.
The cost / life thing is probably not that different from lead acid - yes a much longer life but at much greater cost.
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Post by kris on Jan 22, 2020 9:56:02 GMT
Yes if only my alternators would charge at 13.8
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Post by peterboat on Jan 22, 2020 9:56:41 GMT
I’ve read through them and I dont see anything much other than mick the plumber still being a dick. But Kris he has these batteries and knows how much better than the Trojans they are plus he has a whispergen for charging them in the winter as well as heating heating his boat. But yes he can be a right dick at times
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Post by Telemachus on Jan 22, 2020 9:58:41 GMT
Yes if only my alternators would charge at 13.8 It may be quite easy to replace the existing regulators for lower voltage ones. For example removing the regulator from our alternator is a 5 minute job, no soldering etc required. It just depends on whether a lower voltage regulator is readily available for your model of alternator. Maybe find an auto-electrical supplier/workshop and see what they say. Ideally take the alternator in, or at least the exact model details.
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Post by peterboat on Jan 22, 2020 10:04:04 GMT
Yes if only my alternators would charge at 13.8 It may be quite easy to replace the existing regulators for lower voltage ones. For example removing the regulator from our alternator is a 5 minute job, no soldering etc required. It just depends on whether a lower voltage regulator is readily available for your model of alternator. Maybe find an auto-electrical supplier/workshop and see what they say. Ideally take the alternator in, or at least the exact model details. Thats what we did for John the neighbour as I said on the other channel
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Post by kris on Jan 22, 2020 10:07:23 GMT
Yes if only my alternators would charge at 13.8 It may be quite easy to replace the existing regulators for lower voltage ones. For example removing the regulator from our alternator is a 5 minute job, no soldering etc required. It just depends on whether a lower voltage regulator is readily available for your model of alternator. Maybe find an auto-electrical supplier/workshop and see what they say. Ideally take the alternator in, or at least the exact model details. I’ve tried this, they are a Lucas A127 copy, but I can’t find a replacement regulators rated below 14.2v.
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Post by kris on Jan 22, 2020 10:09:07 GMT
It may be quite easy to replace the existing regulators for lower voltage ones. For example removing the regulator from our alternator is a 5 minute job, no soldering etc required. It just depends on whether a lower voltage regulator is readily available for your model of alternator. Maybe find an auto-electrical supplier/workshop and see what they say. Ideally take the alternator in, or at least the exact model details. Thats what we did for John the neighbour as I said on the other channel Is his alternator a Lucas A127? If it is I’d be interested in where you got the regulator?
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Post by bodger on Jan 22, 2020 10:19:41 GMT
I’ve read through them and I dont see anything much other than mick the plumber still being a dick. snotty git. I woz trying to be 'elpful and that is the best you can do. ........ by the way, I can't believe that you managed to read AND UNDERSTAND all the content which runs to hundreds of posts, in such a short time.
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Post by kris on Jan 22, 2020 10:23:29 GMT
I’ve read through them and I dont see anything much other than mick the plumber still being a dick. snotty git. I woz trying to be 'elpful and that is the best you can do. ........ by the way, I can't believe that you managed to read AND UNDERSTAND all the content which runs to hundreds of posts, in such a short time. Thank you, has that made you feel better? By the way I don’t care what you believe.
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Post by Telemachus on Jan 22, 2020 10:36:58 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2020 10:48:56 GMT
I'm sticking with Lead Acid on the trawler because I am a luddite and the BMC 1.5s only have small alternators.
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Post by lollygagger on Jan 22, 2020 11:35:36 GMT
Many older engines had alternators with external regulators, could you adapt your alternator in this way? If you could then it should be easy to find a suitable regulator.
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Post by Jim on Jan 22, 2020 12:02:43 GMT
So... I have a honda 20 OB, puts out 14.8volts when batteries are a bit hungry. Is there a gubbins I would use, between the alternator and the batteries? One problem may be that the starter motor feed is on the same wires, It's connected direct to the batteries. Not sure if the wiring could be split within the OB to separate power out and power in. Power out could be routed through the caravan connector and socket, the start wires, oil pressure light etc are wired from the helm through that, then main power for charge and starter are a separate pair maybe 10mm sq.
This is for the future, when these batteries die.
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Post by lollygagger on Jan 22, 2020 12:05:26 GMT
I admit to being an electrical dimbo but can an internally regulated alternator be further regulated with an external regulator?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2020 12:05:41 GMT
I wouldn't touch Lithium batteries with a large pole due to the extraordinarily shocking medium term health risks.
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