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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 5, 2020 15:20:25 GMT
With our recent water pump issue, it did occur to me that whenever we have the water pipe off the pump, on the tank side, there is nothing to stop water coming forever and ever along that pipe if the level of the water in the tank is higher than the pipe. We have sometimes been asked if there is a valve along that pipe, but no, there isn't. I thought it about high time to stick in a couple of taps/valves, and next to us is B&Q and they had these.... any good? I bought one, but then thought I should get another, so that one could be near the pump, the other at the front end of the boat near the water tank. I have seen inside the tank, but no idea how the pipe goes through the bulkhead to the pipe in our 'bedroom/living room' where is runs along the corner of the floor meeting the wall. I don't know how to remove this pipe far enough away from the wall to cut sections out - and would a hacksaw do or should it be a proper pipe cutter? Water pipe seems to be PVC, grey in colour.
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Post by Gone on Mar 5, 2020 15:49:48 GMT
Personally I prefer a full bore butterfly or lever valve as they don’t restrict the flow and can be quickly operated if needed. This type needs a wide screwdriver to operate so it is tamperproof. Don’t use a small screwdriver as the head may be damaged.
I much prefer Screwfix or toolstation over the diy sheds, but I still use them.
Best not to cut plastic pipe with a hack saw as the ragged end can damage the o ring seals, better to use a pipe cutter.
Added - if you only want 1 or 2 then eBay is good. search on full bore butterfly valve
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2020 15:57:21 GMT
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Post by Gone on Mar 5, 2020 15:59:37 GMT
An accessible gate valve on the water tank outlet would be my preferred solution. Trouble with gate valves is they often leak a bit, a ball valve is much better.
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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 5, 2020 16:04:10 GMT
full bore butterfly valve Has given me the idea to ask in a couple of places where I work. I popped into the 'ironmongers/hardware store' there after work today and found a great solution as to how to paint inside our tiller stock tube.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2020 16:06:03 GMT
Fair point but I would still put a gate valve on the tank outlet.
A small amount of leakage isn't going to be particularly problematic and the wheel on the gate valve takes up less room so it is easier to have a hidden valve with some sort of access hole to allow you to wind it open and shut easily.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2020 16:13:21 GMT
Gate valves are crap, they break..... either closed or open. If you have to use them never leave them fully open always close by 1/4 turn this helps to prevent jamming. Far better to use 1/4 turn ball valves. I have had to change every gate valve in this house as they had all jammed
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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 5, 2020 16:14:07 GMT
I like the butterfly valve best - on the other hand, the tap I bought (just the one so far) would serve, as it is only a measure for turning on/off now & then, such as for changing the water pump, and turning off everything for when we are away for some days-weeks-months. Will think and investigate further! I can't believe it has taken me so long to get round to this, and I'm thinking our pipes system must be getting fragile by now and some cracks could start arriving...
I wonder if I should have a go at replacing some pipes anyway - and removing the shower pump (Whale Gulper) to see how its bearing feels, before it goes all of a sudden like our old Flojet water pump. Jobs for Summer.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2020 16:19:27 GMT
I have a tap either side of the pumps, can isolate the pumps in seconds without the need for screwdrivers or any other fiddly things..
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Post by pearley on Mar 5, 2020 16:44:28 GMT
An accessible gate valve on the water tank outlet would be my preferred solution. Trouble with gate valves is they often leak a bit, a ball valve is much better. And the gate part becomes detached from the rotating bit.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2020 16:51:31 GMT
Yes but an isolator valve for a water tank on a canal boat is not going to be opened and closed particularly regularly.
Access is important and sometimes there is a general lack of space in narrow boats . The round wheel on a gate valve is easier to accommodate than the lever on a ball valve. Most people want the plumbing to be hidden.
Obviously talking about decent quality gate valves not the Mickey mouse type.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2020 17:06:05 GMT
Yes but an isolator valve for a water tank on a canal boat is not going to be opened and closed particularly regularly. Access is important and sometimes there is a general lack of space in narrow boats . The round wheel on a gate valve is easier to accommodate than the lever on a ball valve. Most people want the plumbing to be hidden. Obviously talking about decent quality gate valves not the Mickey mouse type. That's exactly the problem - lack of use compounds the problem. The only time there is a valid reason to use a gate valve is when space is extremely tight that the greater overall length of a ball valve would be a problem. And even then that still goes against the grain. This is a quality product but look at the cost! www.asap-supplies.com/fittings-valves-strainers/valves-spares/gate-valves/bronze-female-port-gate-valve-406404Foxy, as you have already been told, don't use that push fit isolator, it's not the correct valve for the job.
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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 5, 2020 18:07:06 GMT
Yes but an isolator valve for a water tank on a canal boat is not going to be opened and closed particularly regularly. Access is important and sometimes there is a general lack of space in narrow boats . The round wheel on a gate valve is easier to accommodate than the lever on a ball valve. Most people want the plumbing to be hidden. Obviously talking about decent quality gate valves not the Mickey mouse type. This is a quality product but look at the cost! www.asap-supplies.com/fittings-valves-strainers/valves-spares/gate-valves/bronze-female-port-gate-valve-406404It's Italian. Broken in 5 minutes.Foxy, as you have already been told, don't use that push fit isolator, it's not the correct valve for the job. Yes, inclined to hunt for butterfly valves now. Anyway, good that I have this issue on my list of 'things to do'. I might do it at Easter when I pop over then. Only 6 weeks to go.... no.... 5! yippee!
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Post by brummieboy on Mar 5, 2020 21:29:02 GMT
If your Delph Marine built water tank is the same as mine, then the feed will be a 1/2" BSP male to 15mm compression coupler screwed into a 1/2" bsp welded socket at the top of the tank. The coupler is drilled out to allow the pipe to be passed through and into the tank to hang down as the take off. A 15mm isolating valve, either butterfly or lever is best, fitted in the pipe after it comes out of the tank. If you need to close off quickly, you don't need to hunt around for a screwdriver, or turn a wheel interminably. I fitted my pump level with the outlet. If it freezes or breaks, the water just runs back down into the tank. If the pump is below the tank outlet, a freeze or break could allow the water to syphon out of the tank into the boat.
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Post by Isambard Kingdom Brunel on Mar 6, 2020 10:07:03 GMT
A very good way to plumb from the description, I like the dip draw off tube, spiders usually float on the top. Avoids the sediment on the bottom too.
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