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Post by Jim on Mar 6, 2020 20:58:05 GMT
My tank has a draw off pipe, with tap close to the tank outlet. I fitted a clear plastic riser as a level indicator, with floating ball. 1/4 turn tap at the top. Open tap, water goes to the tank level. Close tap so it seals the system again. Also, because its between the tank and the pump I can isolate the tank, open the level tap and pump air through to clear the pipes when I leave the boat. The pump is maybe .5m from the tank, a jabsco filter too. I've recently fitted another tap to isolate the pump.
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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 7, 2020 8:13:18 GMT
If your Delph Marine built water tank is the same as mine, then the feed will be a 1/2" BSP male to 15mm compression coupler screwed into a 1/2" bsp welded socket at the top of the tank. The coupler is drilled out to allow the pipe to be passed through and into the tank to hang down as the take off. A 15mm isolating valve, either butterfly or lever is best, fitted in the pipe after it comes out of the tank. If you need to close off quickly, you don't need to hunt around for a screwdriver, or turn a wheel interminably. I fitted my pump level with the outlet. If it freezes or breaks, the water just runs back down into the tank. If the pump is below the tank outlet, a freeze or break could allow the water to syphon out of the tank into the boat. I have recently run through my photos on this computer and removed the pics I took inside our water tank of the pipe as not needed by me any more - I have it as a print somewhere but am too lazy to hunt for it. We simply have a slightly-flexible pipe that comes out of a short tube in the bulkhead and curves down to the water tank floor on the left side of the boat, the end of it is a couple of inches above the floor. Last June when the water tank was dry I pressed some Sikaflax 291i silicone (glue?) around the pipe where it sits in that short tube as I couldn't see what was in there and thought I'd seal the thing 'properly'. On the other side, in the cabin, it is hard/impossible to see exactly how the pipe goes through the bulkhead - I will look one day but perhaps the wall/panelling has to be removed...? I think our pump is slightly below the water pipe where it goes into the bulkhead in the cabin side. Have to admit, whoever made this wasn't thinking right! I will correct it soon. Have put this up before.... here it is again... pics of our Delph Marine tub at 2:23 / 2:31 / 2:39 / 3:36
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Post by JohnV on Mar 7, 2020 8:21:09 GMT
My water tanks have a takeoff just above the bottom of the tank with a gate valve immediately next to it ....... as the take off is a two and a quarter inch pipe,
as I carry about a ton and a half of fresh water if I get a leak I get a leak
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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 7, 2020 8:29:31 GMT
When our water tank is full I would imagine the level is higher than the pipe/intake so if there was a leak we'd be getting about 100 litres in. Will fix this when we're in dry dock and the water tank empty in June. I have painted the water tank inside twice, August 2015 and June 2019, and sometimes emptied it just to see what sediment there is on the bottom and wipe it up with a J-cloth. Quite happy with the inside of our tank, water always clear (only for showers & washing-up, etc. we don't drink it). In fact, as I have to splodge some 'water tank coating' into a corner when we have a 'spot weld' this June, I might as well give the inside of the tank another 'once over'. The lid will have to be off for a week as it stinks forever.
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Post by Telemachus on Mar 7, 2020 8:47:05 GMT
Our stainless tank outlet is at the bottom of the tank, accessible from behind the front steps. Just after the outlet is a gate valve. It’s been in for 10 years now with no problems. I agree that never operating these valves is bad for them, but surely any non-live aboard is going to turn the water off at least once a year? (over winter). We tend to visit roughly every month over winter and so the valve gets cycled 4 or 5 times a year.
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Post by brummieboy on Mar 7, 2020 13:46:08 GMT
If your Delph Marine built water tank is the same as mine, then the feed will be a 1/2" BSP male to 15mm compression coupler screwed into a 1/2" bsp welded socket at the top of the tank. The coupler is drilled out to allow the pipe to be passed through and into the tank to hang down as the take off. A 15mm isolating valve, either butterfly or lever is best, fitted in the pipe after it comes out of the tank. If you need to close off quickly, you don't need to hunt around for a screwdriver, or turn a wheel interminably. I fitted my pump level with the outlet. If it freezes or breaks, the water just runs back down into the tank. If the pump is below the tank outlet, a freeze or break could allow the water to syphon out of the tank into the boat. On the other side, in the cabin, it is hard/impossible to see exactly how the pipe goes through the bulkhead - I will look one day but perhaps the wall/panelling has to be removed...? You will find that the pipe is probably held in and sealed with an olive in a compression fitting. The pipe stop is drilled out to allow the pipe to be passed completely through it into the tank.
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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 7, 2020 14:22:20 GMT
On the other side, in the cabin, it is hard/impossible to see exactly how the pipe goes through the bulkhead - I will look one day but perhaps the wall/panelling has to be removed...? You will find that the pipe is probably held in and sealed with an olive in a compression fitting. The pipe stop is drilled out to allow the pipe to be passed completely through it into the tank. Have made a note to add to my few hundred others of 'things to do'. Will look asap.
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Post by brummieboy on Mar 8, 2020 17:31:00 GMT
You will find that the pipe is probably held in and sealed with an olive in a compression fitting. The pipe stop is drilled out to allow the pipe to be passed completely through it into the tank. Have made a note to add to my few hundred others of 'things to do'. Will look asap. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But then, I realise this doesn't fit into the scope of your O.C.D.
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Post by naughtyfox on Mar 8, 2020 17:35:30 GMT
Have made a note to add to my few hundred others of 'things to do'. Will look asap. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But then, I realise this doesn't fit into the scope of your O.C.D. No... once I've started I have to have a poke around and ruin it all make it much better
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Post by JohnV on Mar 8, 2020 17:47:51 GMT
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But then, I realise this doesn't fit into the scope of your O.C.D. No... once I've started I have to have a poke around and ruin it all make it much better Somehow I knew that was going to be your answer
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2020 18:07:04 GMT
Our freshwater tank is on borrowed time - it’s a 54 year old galvanised tank; while it isn’t leaking it’s serviceable👌 That said I’m not keen on rust flavoured tea and coffee, we have a 10” filter on the cold tap to fetch the muck out down to 5 microns. What did surprise me yesterday was the amount of rust that came through the hot water tap upon recommissioning the water system after the winter layup. I don’t recall it being half as bad last year - with that in mind and trying to put off the inevitable tank replacement (along with being more kind to the pump and filters) I’m going to put a dip tube in the top of the water tank using an Essex flange, some 15mm copper tube and a John Guest 15mm push fit to 1/2” hose barb fitting. www.plumbparts.co.uk/product/essex-flange/Essex flanges are useful little things when you need to get a fitting in a tank but have no access to the inside 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/John-Guest-Speedfit-Tube-To-Hose-Connector-15mm-Tube-OD-x-13mm-Hose-Barb-ID-/324075210302Hopefully we will get a few more years service out of it before I have to bite the bullet and drag the damn thing out and replace it - an easy job it ain’t!
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Post by Jim on Mar 8, 2020 18:26:29 GMT
Our freshwater tank is on borrowed time - it’s a 54 year old galvanised tank; while it isn’t leaking it’s serviceable👌 That said I’m not keen on rust flavoured tea and coffee, we have a 10” filter on the cold tap to fetch the muck out down to 5 microns. What did surprise me yesterday was the amount of rust that came through the hot water tap upon recommissioning the water system after the winter layup. I don’t recall it being half as bad last year - with that in mind and trying to put off the inevitable tank replacement (along with being more kind to the pump and filters) I’m going to put a dip tube in the top of the water tank using an Essex flange, some 15mm copper tube and a John Guest 15mm push fit to 1/2” hose barb fitting. www.plumbparts.co.uk/product/essex-flange/Essex flanges are useful little things when you need to get a fitting in a tank but have no access to the inside 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/John-Guest-Speedfit-Tube-To-Hose-Connector-15mm-Tube-OD-x-13mm-Hose-Barb-ID-/324075210302Hopefully we will get a few more years service out of it before I have to bite the bullet and drag the damn thing out and replace it - an easy job it ain’t! Can't you throw the dwarf in with a brush and tub of Black Death? Before she grows too big? I had a welded Polythene tank made, about 750l, sits under the bow deck.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2020 18:30:47 GMT
Our freshwater tank is on borrowed time - it’s a 54 year old galvanised tank; while it isn’t leaking it’s serviceable👌 That said I’m not keen on rust flavoured tea and coffee, we have a 10” filter on the cold tap to fetch the muck out down to 5 microns. What did surprise me yesterday was the amount of rust that came through the hot water tap upon recommissioning the water system after the winter layup. I don’t recall it being half as bad last year - with that in mind and trying to put off the inevitable tank replacement (along with being more kind to the pump and filters) I’m going to put a dip tube in the top of the water tank using an Essex flange, some 15mm copper tube and a John Guest 15mm push fit to 1/2” hose barb fitting. www.plumbparts.co.uk/product/essex-flange/Essex flanges are useful little things when you need to get a fitting in a tank but have no access to the inside 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/John-Guest-Speedfit-Tube-To-Hose-Connector-15mm-Tube-OD-x-13mm-Hose-Barb-ID-/324075210302Hopefully we will get a few more years service out of it before I have to bite the bullet and drag the damn thing out and replace it - an easy job it ain’t! Can't you throw the dwarf in with a brush and tub of Black Death? Before she grows too big? I had a welded Polythene tank made, about 750l, sits under the bow deck. I’d rather the rust than painting the inside of the tank with tar - potable or not!
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Post by JohnV on Mar 8, 2020 19:21:01 GMT
Can't you throw the dwarf in with a brush and tub of Black Death? Before she grows too big? I had a welded Polythene tank made, about 750l, sits under the bow deck. I’d rather the rust than painting the inside of the tank with tar - potable or not! insert a bladder tank ?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2020 19:26:09 GMT
Our freshwater tank is on borrowed time - it’s a 54 year old galvanised tank; while it isn’t leaking it’s serviceable👌 That said I’m not keen on rust flavoured tea and coffee, we have a 10” filter on the cold tap to fetch the muck out down to 5 microns. What did surprise me yesterday was the amount of rust that came through the hot water tap upon recommissioning the water system after the winter layup. I don’t recall it being half as bad last year - with that in mind and trying to put off the inevitable tank replacement (along with being more kind to the pump and filters) I’m going to put a dip tube in the top of the water tank using an Essex flange, some 15mm copper tube and a John Guest 15mm push fit to 1/2” hose barb fitting. www.plumbparts.co.uk/product/essex-flange/Essex flanges are useful little things when you need to get a fitting in a tank but have no access to the inside 👍 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/John-Guest-Speedfit-Tube-To-Hose-Connector-15mm-Tube-OD-x-13mm-Hose-Barb-ID-/324075210302Hopefully we will get a few more years service out of it before I have to bite the bullet and drag the damn thing out and replace it - an easy job it ain’t! Can't you throw the dwarf in with a brush and tub of Black Death? Before she grows too big? I had a welded Polythene tank made, about 750l, sits under the bow deck. Years ago (24 to be exact) I split(ted?) open the top seam on the polyprop tank in my narrow boat using a River Thames water point. Some clever person thought that a Chubb fire hose would make a good tank filling device but I went to have a cuppa with the lock keeper with the fire hose in place. And oh dear. I was not alone as heard of other people splitting tanks with that water hose. Too much volume and the hose blocks the filler so the tank vent can:t handle it. Be careful. 750 litres seems a lot for a little boat.
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