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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2020 16:50:49 GMT
As title, it's Isuzu with Morse, not tried to start it, just so happens other people did it for me. I pulled gear lever outward, set it at 45 degrees and gave ignition a turn, no noise. chug chug chug
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Post by Telemachus on Apr 2, 2020 18:57:34 GMT
As title, it's Isuzu with Morse, not tried to start it, just so happens other people did it for me. I pulled gear lever outward, set it at 45 degrees and gave ignition a turn, no noise. chug chug chug First βclickβ of the ignition is on. There should be lights and alarm noise. Further turn to the right is the starter. If no noise or lights at step one, check the engine battery isolator is on.
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Post by naughtyfox on Apr 2, 2020 20:52:01 GMT
For Heaven's Sake, woman, just get down there in the engine hole and knock some things together.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2020 21:13:13 GMT
For Heaven's Sake, woman, just get down there in the engine hole and change the ruddy oil. Ah that's better
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2020 22:47:01 GMT
yes, it's something to do with battery isolator, some lights, no alarm. Should I be able to hear ticking of fuel pump? I remember I put some battery boots on terminals a few weeks ago, but not the starter battery as it happens. There are some instructions, somewhere.
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Post by JohnV on Apr 2, 2020 22:53:25 GMT
only if it's one that ticks
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Post by phil70 on Apr 2, 2020 23:01:51 GMT
Only hear ticking if it's an electric fuel pump. Turn the key all the way to the right which should be heat count to 5 and turn the key past the resistance which should turn the engine over. The key bezel should be marked as off, accessory, run, heat, and ignition. Once the engine has fired up turn the key back to run To stop the engine turn the key to the left position marked as stop. If there is no stop position turn to off and pull the cable/lever marked stop Phil
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2020 23:03:42 GMT
The fuel filter was changed a few weeks ago, I can't remember if it was run after that [pretty sure it was], but that would not affect the alarm, I assume.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2020 23:34:51 GMT
Only hear ticking if it's an electric fuel pump. Turn the key all the way to the right which should be heat count to 5 and turn the key past the resistance which should turn the engine over. The key bezel should be marked as off, accessory, run, heat, and ignition. Once the engine has fired up turn the key back to run To stop the engine turn the key to the left position marked as stop. If there is no stop position turn to off and pull the cable/lever marked stop Phil OK, I've ascertained the "battey volts" dial is well below where it usually sits, I've put charger on. Mains is ON, I did disconnect unplug shoreline today, but put it back together, I assume battery charger is now charging all batteries, even though engine battery isolator is OFF. I think engine is usually started with engine isolator ON and Domestic ON and Bow OFF. There is a STOP button, which I assume one presses when the engine is running, then turns key to top left ie off. The Webasto is running, and mains charger lights are red+yellow, not yet at green. This engine normally fires up straight away, I think solar normally feeds starter battery. PS the radio [not the vhf] has been on for maybe 24 hours, I thought it had it's own isolator, I never normally touch it, up to now, , I turned it to OFF so it does also isolate the Webasto, I then turned it back ON. Webasto stopped, then started up again. I note there are four positions shown on the ignition key, and there are four lamps, three are red, one is yellow, looks like a "lightbulb". The ignition is normally left OFF, stage 1 the next click, stage 2 brings on two lamps, oil, and battery. This is a two cup of tea job! I think I heard ticking from the Webasto, which gave me the idea I should hear a fuel pump ticking. The radio and the webasto share one isolator UPDATE, its now 01.20 hours, the battery charger shows red, yellow green, so it only needed a boost, not flattened, the 12 volt overhead LED light in the engine room seems pretty bright. I sometimes think that all the 12 LED lights are quite senstive to voltage, I thought this would be due to voltage drop. 03.30 hours Friday 3rd March 2020 OK, on my third cup of tea, the Webasto has now heated the boat, sleep not possible when it is working The charger showing two greens and battery volts just under the red line at 15v, it settles back down pdq to under 14, maybe around 13-. I've not given batteries a good boost this week, as Webasto has not been needed, and I use shorepower for laptop. I've put radio and a light on, to draw out a few amps, then give it another hour on the charger.
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Post by patty on Apr 3, 2020 5:19:32 GMT
I hope you are now sorted.. Does the engine now start?
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Post by Telemachus on Apr 3, 2020 8:50:45 GMT
On the LED lights, there are two types. One type uses a resistor in series with the LEDs to limit the current. Excess voltage is dissipated as heat. Other type uses electronics to limit the current, these create virtually no heat.
The first type are very sensitive to excess voltage. Designed to work from 12v, not 14.4v or whatever the charger gives. They will get very hot and fail eventually if 14.4v is maintained.
The second type are quite happy up to around 30v.
You may or may not have an electric fuel pump. The main lift pump is mechanical, on the engine. We have an electric fuel pump that ticks, but that is mainly because our fuel tank is under the engine. If you have fuel tank in the counter, usually no electric pump is required because the fuel is at or above the engine level.p
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Post by bodger on Apr 3, 2020 9:29:29 GMT
where on earth are you that you can't find a single (or married !! ) friendly boating person to help?
even with Covid floating around I'm sure you could find a way to mitigate the risk.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2020 9:42:05 GMT
I hope you are now sorted.. Does the engine now start? I think I have put starter battery and Domestics [three new 135ah AGM'S] on charge, waiting. I think when I select second turn and the two lamps come on, the alarm should sound to tell me I should turn again, maybe meet resistance, turn again, to lamp that looks like turnover. I will leave throttle lever in centre, ie no throttle Twenty minutes later. Had another go, I'd say fuel starvation. I bet the BSS examiner turned engine fuel cock to OFF, will try again in half an hour. I can't remember if the alarm ever worked, UPDATE: there is a flick switch mysteriously labelled "BUZZER" .... I will flick it SUCCESS, alarm now working. .... I also think tunnel light and well deck light might have been switched on overnight [they are in an non foolproof location]. This would account for dramatic change in battery voltage. I have to do something in engine hole for BSS, sending a photo through, need to listen to the Archers to calm down.
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Post by Telemachus on Apr 3, 2020 10:08:25 GMT
I hope you are now sorted.. Does the engine now start? I think I have put starter battery and Domestics [three new 135ah AGM'S] on charge, waiting. I think when I select second turn and the two lamps come on, the alarm should sound to tell me I should turn again, maybe meet resistance, turn again, to lamp that looks like turnover. I will leave throttle lever in centre, ie no throttle Twenty minutes later. Had another go, I'd say fuel starvation. I bet the BSS examiner turned engine fuel cock to OFF, will try again in half an hour. I can't remember if the alarm ever worked, UPDATE: there is a flick swith labelled "BUZZER" .... I will flick it SUCCESS, alarm now working. .... So it is turning over then, just not starting?
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Post by Jim on Apr 3, 2020 10:13:18 GMT
where on earth are you that you can't find a single (or married !! ) friendly boating person to help?
even with Covid floating around I'm sure you could find a way to mitigate the risk.
You suggesting she should get a man in? I think it's best to carry on herself, not much else to do and she will then know what's what for the future. After all, what could possibly go wrongπ.
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