Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2020 19:46:46 GMT
That's the first time I've noticed that CQR means "Secure". I wonder what "Bruce" means. Is there some sort of subliminal messaging going on with anchors. Danforth. Fisherman's. Smith's patent. Rocna. It could mean 'All stations: rescue'... Bruce means 'out to get you'.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2020 19:52:00 GMT
My toy trawler has a Bruce anchor. In fact I added a second one just for the looks. I do think a Danforth type is better for the Thames but as TonyDunkley wisely pointed out you do need to do some handling practice as the movable bits can give some nasty surprises to the unwary. They store flat which is an advantage on a narrow boat.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2020 20:14:32 GMT
My toy trawler has a Bruce anchor. In fact I added a second one just for the looks. I do think a Danforth type is better for the Thames but as TonyDunkley wisely pointed out you do need to do some handling practice as the movable bits can give some nasty surprises to the unwary. They store flat which is an advantage on a narrow boat. Yes, I believe I may have mentioned that once or twice. Which is why I'd go with the Bruce. No moving parts.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2020 1:50:49 GMT
My toy trawler has a Bruce anchor. In fact I added a second one just for the looks. I do think a Danforth type is better for the Thames but as TonyDunkley wisely pointed out you do need to do some handling practice as the movable bits can give some nasty surprises to the unwary. They store flat which is an advantage on a narrow boat. Yes, I believe I may have mentioned that once or twice. Which is why I'd go with the Bruce. No moving parts. Oh yes so you did I missed that previously.
|
|
|
Post by JohnV on Jun 3, 2020 4:59:25 GMT
with a 150lb CQR on the end, you can bet your sweet life I do Originall an Armstrong ..... but mine weren't
so electric was the answer Thanks for the link to the funky smiley page... Whats your solution for the plastic fantastic? A 15lb (?) Danforth in proper manufacturers holding rack on bow fed from a hawse on deck to a bow chain locker with about 50 foot of 3/8" (?) chain held in use by a tee cleat and running over a bow roller ..... all apparently original (optional extra) install. hand pulled, no winch, gloves optional
|
|
|
Post by JohnV on Jun 3, 2020 5:19:28 GMT
You can just about make the arrangement out on this photo
|
|
|
Post by TonyDunkley on Jun 3, 2020 7:43:31 GMT
My toy trawler has a Bruce anchor. In fact I added a second one just for the looks. I do think a Danforth type is better for the Thames but as TonyDunkley wisely pointed out you do need to do some handling practice as the movable bits can give some nasty surprises to the unwary. They store flat which is an advantage on a narrow boat. Yes, I believe I may have mentioned that once or twice. Which is why I'd go with the Bruce. No moving parts. It isn't only the moving parts on an anchor that can pose a serious threat to limbs and fingers. Making off a rope or warp that's running out under strain can also end up with you having to take your shoes and socks off to count up to ten !
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2020 7:46:20 GMT
I thought I heard a coffin-lid slam...
|
|
|
Post by TonyDunkley on Jun 3, 2020 9:12:50 GMT
Can you post photo's of the anchor, chain, and ropes you've already got aboard, and one of both ends of your boat, . . including the forard tee-stud and the dollies on the stern end ? Lines
Photo here of main ones 14mm in diameter all in good condition.
1 x 50ft 1 x 45ft 1 x 35ft 1 x 30ft 2 x 25ft
Other blue line photo here 10mm dia getting fairly old but is fine for normal mooring
Chain
15ft in length
6mm diameter of metal
2 inch chain link length.
Front T stud
Rear dollies
Anchor
For a Summer trip on Thames no further down than Brentford you've already got what you'll need, both in the way of ground tackle and lines for the locks. Below Brentford or for outings on any of the Northern rivers such as the Trent and Ouse, however, you will need some additions and improvements. For immediate purposes, don't use that length of light gauge chain on that Danforth, . . it's nowhere near strong enough to be relied on in the event of that anchor digging in hard or catching on something solid in a swift current. Before you get on to the river, put the longest polyester/nylon warp you've got on the anchor ready for immediate use and keep the anchor up forard where you've got it in the photo, with the bitter end of the warp made off on the central T-stud. The eye splice at the anchor end of the warp needs at least two more full tucks than the splice in the photo has, . . two and a half tucks are OK for Hemp, Sisal or Cotton, but not enough for the smoother and more slippery man-made fibres like polyester and polypropylene. The best use for the chain would probably be for going into making stem, tip-cat, or back fenders. Or you could double it back on itself several times into as small and tight a bundle as you can make and secure to the end of a decent length of rope as a makeshift (mud) weight which you could either use on it's own in very sluggish currents, or attached loosely to the anchor warp, after it's already run-out, with a short strop or a biggish D-shackle and let to slide well down towards the anchor to increase it's holding power if it's tending to drag on rope alone. In the photo of the anchor in the well-deck, the shank looks to be fouling one of the flukes. Is this just due to wear and looseness in the pivot head or is the shank bent and preventing the flukes from pivoting in either direction depending on whichever way up the anchor lands ?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2020 9:42:19 GMT
Lines
Photo here of main ones 14mm in diameter all in good condition.
1 x 50ft 1 x 45ft 1 x 35ft 1 x 30ft 2 x 25ft
Other blue line photo here 10mm dia getting fairly old but is fine for normal mooring
Chain
15ft in length
6mm diameter of metal
2 inch chain link length.
Front T stud
Rear dollies
Anchor
For a Summer trip on Thames no further down than Brentford you've already got what you'll need, both in the way of ground tackle and lines for the locks. Below Brentford or for outings on any of the Northern rivers such as the Trent and Ouse, however, you will need some additions and improvements. For immediate purposes, don't use that length of light gauge chain on that Danforth, . . it's nowhere near strong enough to be relied on in the event of that anchor digging in hard or catching on something solid in a swift current. Before you get on to the river, put the longest polyester/nylon warp you've got on the anchor ready for immediate use and keep the anchor up forard where you've got it in the photo, with the bitter end of the warp made off on the central T-stud. The eye splice at the anchor end of the warp needs at least two more full tucks than the splice in the photo has, . . two and a half tucks are OK for Hemp, Sisal or Cotton, but not enough for the smoother and more slippery man-made fibres like polyester and polypropylene. The best use for the chain would probably be for going into making stem, tip-cat, or back fenders. Or you could double it back on itself several times into as small and tight a bundle as you can make and secure to the end of a decent length of rope as a makeshift (mud) weight which you could either use on it's own in very sluggish currents, or attached loosely to the anchor warp, after it's already run-out, with a short strop or a biggish D-shackle and let to slide well down towards the anchor to increase it's holding power if it's tending to drag on rope alone. In the photo of the anchor in the well-deck, the shank looks to be fouling one of the flukes. Is this just due to wear and looseness in the pivot head or is the shank bent and preventing the flukes from pivoting in either direction depending on whichever way up the anchor lands ? Thanks Tony, will do as you say and avoid using the chain.
The anchor shank has a very slight bend in it (measured at 5mm along full length), pivot head is loose and seems to be manufactured that way. Having had a bit of a play the only way it would snag on the flukes is if the anchor fell flat with the shank pointing upstream, hopefully the anchor would catch on something/dig in enough to turn it over though, I can't see the 'bottom plates' not doing so.
|
|