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Post by Deleted on Aug 27, 2020 21:45:33 GMT
An interesting day, took the bike into Nantwich to get some more oil and a spanner coz none of mine were big enough to drain the oil, drained the oil and filled back up with fresh stuff, then cruised for the afternoon, stopping a lot and checking fluids, no sign of any water in the oil now and water where it should be in the header tank. I’m confused now. You could make a start on unconfusing yourself by referring back to the two posts I made further back on this page, . . in particular to the second para. in this morning's post. Here it is again with the more salient points highlighted in bold : There won't be any diesel (fuel) getting into the cooling system, but depending on whether or not your engine is fitted with an oil cooler, it is possible that coolant might be swapping places with the engine oil if the cooler has developed an internal leak, . . which is something oil coolers are sometimes prone to after being put back into use following long periods of standing with few or no running hours! Further opportunities for yet more understanding can be had by responding to the questions I asked you in the third para. of the same post. Here they are again - a "no" to all of them would pretty well eliminate the head gasket as the source of the water contamination in the engine lube oil : Did the engine get hot enough to blow rusty coloured water out of the header tank cap ? Can you see any small bubbles rising in the header tank when the engine's running, and is there any detectable trace of an exhaust fumes sort of smell coming out of the header tank filler whilst you're looking for bubbles ? Are there any droplets or signs of oil floating on the surface of the coolant in the header tank ?It’s a No to all of them
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Post by TonyDunkley on Aug 28, 2020 5:47:25 GMT
You could make a start on unconfusing yourself by referring back to the two posts I made further back on this page, . . in particular to the second para. in this morning's post. Here it is again with the more salient points highlighted in bold : There won't be any diesel (fuel) getting into the cooling system, but depending on whether or not your engine is fitted with an oil cooler, it is possible that coolant might be swapping places with the engine oil if the cooler has developed an internal leak, . . which is something oil coolers are sometimes prone to after being put back into use following long periods of standing with few or no running hours! Further opportunities for yet more understanding can be had by responding to the questions I asked you in the third para. of the same post. Here they are again - a "no" to all of them would pretty well eliminate the head gasket as the source of the water contamination in the engine lube oil : Did the engine get hot enough to blow rusty coloured water out of the header tank cap ? Can you see any small bubbles rising in the header tank when the engine's running, and is there any detectable trace of an exhaust fumes sort of smell coming out of the header tank filler whilst you're looking for bubbles ? Are there any droplets or signs of oil floating on the surface of the coolant in the header tank ?It’s a No to all of them In that case it's likely that the engine didn't seriously overheat the other day, and that the head gasket is probably OK. Assuming that you find no signs of water in the engine oil and the level on the dipstick hasn't risen when you check it again before it's next run, your best plan now would be to give it around 10 hours of normal running with stops to check the coolant level in the header tank, and for any signs of the oil emulsifying or the level rising, at no more than 2 hourly intervals. If everything seems alright after the 10 hours running, change both oil and filter again to make absolutely sure there are no traces of any water or emulsified oil left anywhere in the engine and it's lubrication system. If the gearbox does have it's own separate oil cooler in the cooling system in addition to the engine oil cooler, it would be a wise precaution to check the gearbox oil for level and for any signs of water contamination in the box before running the engine again. Just to be certain that we got everything covered, it would probably be as well if you were to check with Mr Stabby and Kris to see if there's anything they want to add to the helpful advice they provided you with back on page 1 of this topic.
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Post by patty on Aug 28, 2020 6:07:06 GMT
Hopefully it'll all be sorted at minimum cost... At least looks as if theres a plan to action..
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2020 6:39:07 GMT
I have to say it sounds like TD is on the money again. Also, if it is a problem with an oil cooler, then the fix shouldn't run into multiples of hundreds of pounds and it also seems like it isn't a specialist job... (although sods law dictates that the part is out of stock, is many times the price of all the rest, and is located somewhere that a yoga instructor would find challenging to reach...) www.amazon.co.uk/GENUINE-Kubota-Cooler-1C010-37010-1J550-37010/dp/B07Q43H5Y1
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2020 8:51:41 GMT
Had already come to the conclusion it wasn’t the head, oil cooler is a good shout, just need to work out where it is on the engine now..
Will be running and checking over the next three days, then will do a full oil change again in two weeks when I come back up.
Thanks Tony, Nemisis, Stabby and Kris
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Post by ianali on Aug 28, 2020 10:39:32 GMT
I've seen head gasket sealer in car supermarkets, pour it in the water it seals the blown gasket. Probably only for a while. It may be a temporary measure to get you by. That stuff is worse than useless and all it will ever do is to block the smaller water passages, kill the engine and make it permanently unrepairable. You cannot repair damaged metal by tipping any type of product into the oil or water system. Whilst I would never use these products, I do know a guy that has repaired two leaking head gaskets on high performance bike engines. They did stop leaking. He still owns one of them, 3 years on and several thousand miles later all is still well. I saw the leak prior to him tipping the liquid in. It stopped leaking within an hour. I still wouldn’t use it though, my head says it can’t work, my eyes saw that it does.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 28, 2020 10:43:06 GMT
Bit like Radweld, that works as well. Also that green stuff you put into tyres to stop punctures. It works. I average around 6 hawthorns in my bike tyres every year resulting in 1 puncture. 3 years on from using the green goo, not a single puncture.
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Post by peterboat on Aug 28, 2020 15:24:35 GMT
That stuff is worse than useless and all it will ever do is to block the smaller water passages, kill the engine and make it permanently unrepairable. You cannot repair damaged metal by tipping any type of product into the oil or water system. Whilst I would never use these products, I do know a guy that has repaired two leaking head gaskets on high performance bike engines. They did stop leaking. He still owns one of them, 3 years on and several thousand miles later all is still well. I saw the leak prior to him tipping the liquid in. It stopped leaking within an hour. I still wouldn’t use it though, my head says it can’t work, my eyes saw that it does. Christmas eve a few years ago customer had blown head gasket our checking gadget said so [it detects exhaust gas in cooling system] we dropped in real steel head gasket repair liquid x 2 [4.6 northstar caddy engine] anyway months later he pops in "hows it going" I ask "great! he says. Anyway couple of years later he dies car is sold and comes into us for a service still going fine no loss of water running on 8 cylinders! Now I know it shouldnt work but sometimes it does and in his case it outlasted him God bless him
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Post by Jim on Aug 28, 2020 16:31:01 GMT
I remember using Cee-Lit, a flakey powder in little sachets, to fix leaky radiators.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 28, 2020 16:49:46 GMT
Thin rope was pretty good as well, used to hold up exhaust pipes when they'd rotted off their mountings. Just go slow over any bumps.
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Post by naughtyfox on Aug 28, 2020 16:58:57 GMT
Have any of Thunderboat's elderly residents tried drinking such products so as to keep their internal organs from leaking?
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Post by Jim on Aug 28, 2020 17:03:58 GMT
Thin rope was pretty good as well, used to hold up exhaust pipes when they'd rotted off their mountings. Just go slow over any bumps. I once used thin orange polyprop string to repair a snapped front subframe on a Renault 4, it went while we were camping in snowdonia. I rigged a Spanish windlass between both sides. Got us home.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2020 17:06:18 GMT
Olé!
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Post by Jim on Aug 28, 2020 17:14:44 GMT
¡Ay, caramba! Probably more appropriate!
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 28, 2020 17:15:17 GMT
The worst thing I did was to drive to work and back for 3 days, 10 miles each way, with only a handbrake and the gears to stop me. I had no money to get the brakes fixed until pay day. Those behind me must have thought there was a right doddering old granddad in front of them. Little did they know.
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