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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 11, 2020 19:02:04 GMT
I've decided on an industrial theme for the living room/ dining room/ kitchen in my new place. Cos I like that kind of thing. I've already secured a fantastic narrow set of steel drawers to go next to the sofa and an industrial table lamp to go on top of it. I'll need a small (900mm long) dining table and a smaller, lower coffee table. I've decided to make these myself using key clamps and galvanised tube for the frames, with reclaimed scaffold boards for the tops. The dining table will be 3 planks wide, 2 planks for the coffee table.
My questions: Would gluing and clamping be sufficiently strong for the boards or should I look to strengthen further, steel strips underneath perhaps? Also I'd like to decorate the edges with thin steel strip which I'll paint black. I'd like to be able to bend it round the corners so spring steel isn't ideal. Ant tips about what might be suitable? It would also be nice to have some fake rivets, maybe like the ones you see on posh boats. Where might I get these from?
Cheers.
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Post by Jim on Sept 11, 2020 19:09:28 GMT
I've decided on an industrial theme for the living room/ dining room/ kitchen in my new place. Cos I like that kind of thing. I've already secured a fantastic narrow set of steel drawers to go next to the sofa and an industrial table lamp to go on top of it. I'll need a small (900mm long) dining table and a smaller, lower coffee table. I've decided to make these myself using key clamps and galvanised tube for the frames, with reclaimed scaffold boards for the tops. The dining table will be 3 planks wide, 2 planks for the coffee table. My questions: Would gluing and clamping be sufficiently strong for the boards or should I look to strengthen further, steel strips underneath perhaps? Also I'd like to decorate the edges with thin steel strip which I'll paint black. I'd like to be able to bend it round the corners so spring steel isn't ideal. Ant tips about what might be suitable? It would also be nice to have some fake rivets, maybe like the ones you see on posh boats. Where might I get these from? Cheers. Fake rivets? Take a trip past an 'udson with an' ammer and chisel. 'Udson owners whereabouts are often known. Maybe you have a mate who's expert in dodgy doings...
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 19:13:18 GMT
Sounds good.
I'd probably consider steel reinforcement on the underside.
See if you can find a scrap yard who take cash for things out of their skips. I love these places. Random waste materials for a couple of quid.
Last time I was in one I got 5 old swann CCTV cameras for £2 two of which work ok.
I think there are some large headed nails which would do for the rivets but not sure what they are called.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 19:15:55 GMT
20mm x 2mm steel mild strip easily bent by hand, freely available on the net.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 19:16:25 GMT
Perhaps for the rivets just buy rivets, drill correct hole in the steel, 0.5mm smaller hole in the wood and bang them in? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Steel-Round-Head-Rivets-DIN-123-M8-M10-M12-/254198003552Always worth looking in scrap mens bins if they are happy with it. All sorts of goodies. Years ago I got a handful of rifle cartridges. They had a dustbin full of them. The bullets had been a out 8mm bore so I suppose it was a Winchester 32 or similar. Good stuff turns up at scrap yards.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 19:17:58 GMT
Glues on rivets? Who the hell would want such a ridiculous thing as that...... 🙈😜👍🍻
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 19:21:18 GMT
I am slightly worried that someone would think attaching steel to wood with rivets may appear authentic...
It would look quite good though to be fair. Better than posidrive screws..
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Post by patty on Sept 12, 2020 6:35:09 GMT
Sounds like a good project..fake rivets?...that sounds familiar...cannot think where I've heard that one before.......
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Post by JohnV on Sept 12, 2020 6:50:35 GMT
The bullets had been a out 8mm bore so I suppose it was a Winchester 32 or similar. Good stuff turns up at scrap yards. possibly a Lebel ........ standard original French Army issue for some 50 years and still a lot of them around esp. in ex French territories
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2020 7:05:22 GMT
To make steel go sharply around a 90 degree bend, score it on the inside with an angle grinder. Heat also helps. To join two planks edge-to-edge use dowels (and glue). There's a technique in getting the holes to line up properly - in brief you mark the boards up in pairs with a set-square and use a marking gauge to ensure accuracy of the centre line. Very satisfying when you get it right. And even when you do, there is still usually a need to 'adjust' the face, achieved either with a power plane or a belt sander.
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Post by phil70 on Sept 12, 2020 7:17:05 GMT
As for glue, I'd sing the praises of PVA which produces a extremely strong bond, try to seperate two parts will leave the bonded wood still attached, likewise Gorilla glue. Phil
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2020 7:20:53 GMT
I've never done any doweling but just off the top of my head I would have thought if you drilled very shallow holes in one of the boards, stand it face up, put ball bearings in the shallow holes then put the other board on top of it and whack it with a lump hammer... The ball bearings would dent the top piece of wood so you get lined up holes.
No idea if it would work but sounds easier than doing all the set square stuff.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2020 7:28:49 GMT
I've never done any doweling but just off the top of my head I would have thought if you drilled very shallow holes in one of the boards, stand it face up, put ball bearings in the shallow holes then put the other board on top of it and whack it with a lump hammer... The ball bearings would dent the top piece of wood so you get lined up holes. No idea if it would work but sounds easier than doing all the set square stuff. How would you ensure the faces of the boards were level with each other?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2020 7:31:10 GMT
I thought Clinton Cool was looking for an industrial type arrangement not fine carpentry. I'd go over the whole top after construction with a flap disc on an angle grinder to take out any high points. It would be quite easy to make up a little guide for the top plank by screwing lengths of batten to each side and end of the other piece. Old screw holes and nails are essential for authentic industrial tables. A couple of burn marks here and there. Don't forget to drill a flat hole and glue a coin in with the year the table was constructed. That's always sensible for anyone wondering about the provenance of such a class item in future.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2020 7:50:32 GMT
I thought Clinton Cool was looking for an industrial type arrangement not fine carpentry. I'd go over the whole top after construction with a flap disc on an angle grinder to take out any high points. It would be quite easy to make up a little guide for the top plank by screwing lengths of batten to each side and end of the other piece. Old screw holes and nails are essential for authentic industrial tables. A couple of burn marks here and there. Don't forget to drill a flat hole and glue a coin in with the year the table was constructed. That's always sensible for anyone wondering about the provenance of such a class item in future. Please make it. I'd love to watch. BTW, Fred Dibnah once stopped his house collapsing by drilling several holes all the way through the building and installing the biggest set of bolts you ever saw. Top work. It was amazing that he got the bolt holes to line up properly, but I expect he took the time to mark it out first.
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