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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 16, 2020 7:49:13 GMT
Trying to do an oil change on my bike. It has an aftermarket exhaust on it which includes a cat. Poorly designed, the exhaust prevents me from taking the sump bolt out to drain the oil. So, I'm going to have to remove the exhaust in order to get it off.
The exhaust is secured to the engine with a flange and a pair of longish 12mm bolts, these screw on to threaded studs. The bolts are so close to the poorly designed exhaust that there isn't room to get a ring spanner in there. Using an open ended spanner I managed to loosen one of the bolts but the other one stubbornly refuses to move. A bit more effort resulted in the partial wrecking of the bolt. I wd40'd it the day before, and again before trying to loosen it.
Any tips on how to stand the best chance of loosening the bolt without totally wrecking it? I should be able to get a pair of mole grips on it, is this worth a go?
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Post by kris on Sept 16, 2020 7:53:40 GMT
Can you run the other nut up to the ruined one?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 8:22:56 GMT
Blow torch to warm it up a bit might be worth considering.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 16, 2020 8:26:49 GMT
Yes, blow torch plus hitting with hammer.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 8:29:34 GMT
Only thing is it it is theaded into aluminium it's a bit risky to use impact.
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Post by kris on Sept 16, 2020 8:31:45 GMT
Heat is a good thing. It will be a stud into the head, unless I’m misunderstanding? So take the stud out, if you can’t get the knackered nut off.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 16, 2020 8:34:10 GMT
OK if I were to try a blowtorch: Is the idea to warm up the nut rather than the stud it sits on, nut expands slightly and releases its grip on the stud?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 8:43:56 GMT
Is it all the same metal ie steel ?
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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 16, 2020 8:46:47 GMT
Is it all the same metal ie steel ? I think so...
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 8:48:11 GMT
Just general heating on the whole lot might loosen it up. It's difficult to visualise it.
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Post by Jim on Sept 16, 2020 10:22:47 GMT
Split the Nut with a dremel with a little cutting disk. I got a dremel copy from Lidl, great for jobs like that.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 16, 2020 10:47:51 GMT
OK if I were to try a blowtorch: Is the idea to warm up the nut rather than the stud it sits on, nut expands slightly and releases its grip on the stud? Heat the bolt, it will expand slightly and break the oxidisation seal with whatever it is mating with. Then let it cool down and have a go at undoing it.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Sept 16, 2020 11:18:00 GMT
Trying to do an oil change on my bike. It has an aftermarket exhaust on it which includes a cat. Poorly designed, the exhaust prevents me from taking the sump bolt out to drain the oil. So, I'm going to have to remove the exhaust in order to get it off. The exhaust is secured to the engine with a flange and a pair of longish 12mm bolts, these screw on to threaded studs. The bolts are so close to the poorly designed exhaust that there isn't room to get a ring spanner in there. Using an open ended spanner I managed to loosen one of the bolts but the other one stubbornly refuses to move. A bit more effort resulted in the partial wrecking of the bolt. I wd40'd it the day before, and again before trying to loosen it. Any tips on how to stand the best chance of loosening the bolt without totally wrecking it? I should be able to get a pair of mole grips on it, is this worth a go? The question is phrased in mechanical gibberish, . . bolts don't "screw on to threaded studs" - they both have male threads. What you're probably describing are two elongated nuts - ie. deep plain or dome nuts with their largest dimension measured along the axis of the nut instead of across the flats, or at right angles to the axis, and with little to no clearance between the corners and flats of the nuts and the wall of the exhaust pipe where it emerges from the flange. If this is so, there are ways to go about shifting stubborn ones. Post a photo or two, including views of the gap between the nuts and the wall of the pipe, and of the 'end on' access for using a modified socket.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 16, 2020 11:25:10 GMT
Trying to do an oil change on my bike. It has an aftermarket exhaust on it which includes a cat. Poorly designed, the exhaust prevents me from taking the sump bolt out to drain the oil. So, I'm going to have to remove the exhaust in order to get it off. The exhaust is secured to the engine with a flange and a pair of longish 12mm bolts, these screw on to threaded studs. The bolts are so close to the poorly designed exhaust that there isn't room to get a ring spanner in there. Using an open ended spanner I managed to loosen one of the bolts but the other one stubbornly refuses to move. A bit more effort resulted in the partial wrecking of the bolt. I wd40'd it the day before, and again before trying to loosen it. Any tips on how to stand the best chance of loosening the bolt without totally wrecking it? I should be able to get a pair of mole grips on it, is this worth a go? The question is phrased in mechanical gibberish, . . bolts don't "screw on to threaded studs" - they both have male threads. What you're probably describing are two elongated nuts - ie. deep plain or dome nuts with their largest dimension measured along the axis of the nut instead of across the flats - or at right angles to the axis - with little to no clearance between the corners and flats of the nuts and the wall of the exhaust pipe where it emerges from the flange. If this is so, there are ways to go about shifting stubborn ones. Post a photo or two, including views of the gap between the nuts and the wall of the pipe, and of the 'end on' access for using a modified socket. Yes, exactly. Deep plain nuts. I've damaged part of the nut with my attempt with the open ended spanner but because it's deep there's still undamaged material to have a go at. I can't post pictures unfortunately.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 11:28:58 GMT
Clinton CoolWhat was the bike again? I remember it's got a funny name. Just thinking there might be a Google image available showing the fastenings.
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