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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 17:47:31 GMT
So how are you going to get the stud out if the nut on the end of it won't turn? If the stud turns then so does the nut...
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 17:49:17 GMT
So how are you going to get the stud out if the nut on the end of it won't turn? If the stud turns then so does the nut... Yes exactly and the nut is not turning... It seems to me that this is the problem.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 17:50:33 GMT
I wonder if it would be worth running the engine for a bit with some load on it, get the whole lot really hot then have another go at it.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 17:51:04 GMT
I don't think you are getting this. If the stud turns it can be unscrewed all the way complete with nut.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 17:52:39 GMT
I don't think you are getting this. If the stud turns it can be unscrewed all the way complete with nut. Ok so how does he turn the stud if the nut is seized onto it and won't turn? Surely the very fact that the nut won't turn indicates that the stud is seized into the aluminium part.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 17:59:55 GMT
Also if that pic is representative of the item in question, it looks like access with a open-end spanner is quite acceptable which leads me to suspect the spanner actually used was a POS.
Best thing - take it to a bike shop of repute. They'll have seen it all before.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:11:39 GMT
I don't think you are getting this. If the stud turns it can be unscrewed all the way complete with nut. Ok so how does he turn the stud if the nut is seized onto it and won't turn? Surely the very fact that the nut won't turn indicates that the stud is seized into the aluminium part. If the nut is THAT stuck the stud will turn first. Probably. The stud hasn't moved since the bike was produced. They are always stiff and were probably given a blob of threadlock as well. I have to say I'd be thinking about the vice grips around now if I could get a good grip. But better advice is already given - take it to the bike shop.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:12:06 GMT
I think the photo is representative of the studs but no reason to think the actual exhaust itself is that particular item.
I'd prefer to cut the studs and replace than pay a shop but that's just my DIY attitude.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:13:04 GMT
Ok so how does he turn the stud if the nut is seized onto it and won't turn? Surely the very fact that the nut won't turn indicates that the stud is seized into the aluminium part. If the nut is THAT stuck the stud will turn first. Probably. The stud hasn't moved since the bike was produced. They are always stiff and were probably given a blob of threadlock as well. I have to say I'd be thinking about the vice grips around now if I could get a good grip. But better advice is already given - take it to the bike shop. He got the other nut off. Using an open ended spanner on these is asking for trouble to be fair even if it's a really good one which a lot aren't. Another option could be a small cold chisel to try to force the nut round or even drill a little hole in the side of it and try a pin punch. Might work?
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Post by patty on Sept 16, 2020 18:13:10 GMT
Very complicated really... I'm glad I'm a botcher n a bodger cos quite clearly this needs a lot of circular discussion..... Ditch the bike...
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:24:05 GMT
If the nut is THAT stuck the stud will turn first. Probably. The stud hasn't moved since the bike was produced. They are always stiff and were probably given a blob of threadlock as well. I have to say I'd be thinking about the vice grips around now if I could get a good grip. But better advice is already given - take it to the bike shop. He got the other nut off. Using an open ended spanner on these is asking for trouble to be fair even if it's a really good one which a lot aren't. Another option could be a small cold chisel to try to force the nut round or even drill a little hole in the side of it and try a pin punch. Might work? Possibly, but that is IMO the depths of bodgery. I have used that 'technique' but if it fails then things are so bad you probably wouldn't get a pro to touch it anyway. SHOP. SHOP. SHOP. It's possible the nut was half-buggered by the last genius. But somehow I don't think Ricco pushed the boat out when he last bought some spanners. www.toolden.co.uk/hand-tools/spanner-sets/teng-tools-tt1236-12-piece-metric-combination-spanner-set/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvI_crKXu6wIVDLDtCh1ULAQpEAQYBSABEgKzSPD_BwE
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:35:29 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:37:03 GMT
Jesus - 4 pages for one nut!
quick look on google reveals a box spanner is the likeliest thing to shift it. If the box spanner is too long it can easily be modified with the use of an angle grinder and a slitting disc to make it less long.
Think yourself lucky it’s not a multi cylinder engine prone to stripping the threads for the exhaust studs in the hands of imbeciles - I’ve put right a 600 Thundercat and a ZX6R after they were attacked by their ham fisted owner’s trying to fit aftermarket exhausts.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:38:05 GMT
I got the impression it was difficulty in passing a ring over the nut, so to speak.
Perhaps a crowsfoot wrench on a 3/8 socket extension might work?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2020 18:39:09 GMT
Not Clinton Cool bike but this is the layout it would seem. They do look a bit large so maybe they are indeed M12. Although the way it was described sounded slightly different so this could be a different one. Image found on a grom forum. I would be tempted to use a junior hacksaw (The Ding Dong is a good one) and cut off the stud other side of the flange. then remove the studs with a stud remover later and replace with new. No way, M12 is 19mm across the flats nut. They are M8 like most Jap stuff - 12mm across the flats.
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