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Post by ianali on Sept 18, 2020 9:08:18 GMT
Started engine today. Barrus shire 45. All fine for a few mins then charge buzzer came alive. I know almost nothing about electrics! Have checked with multimeter and starter battery is getting a good charge. 4 x leisure’s getting nothing(apart from solar). Have rang RCR so have back up plan. May wait a while though, as they have sent all their men to Bath. So what can I check myself? Can’t see any loose wiring. Batteries are at about 12.7v at the mo. I think when I lifted the engine boards that I smelt a burnt smell, seemed like a wiring smell. Any suggestions most welcome.
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Post by ianali on Sept 18, 2020 9:10:02 GMT
Just too add. Belts are fine, alternators both spinning.
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 18, 2020 9:35:19 GMT
Not familiar with Barrus Shire or which domestic alternator you have, but typically there are two alternator warning lights, one for each alternator.
What happens when you first switch on the ignition and before starting the engine? Both alternator warning lights should be illuminated.
What happens after engine started? Both alternator warning lights should extinguish.
Depending on your answers to the above we can look at other things. Usually these sorts of engines have a multi-way connector taking all the wiring between the engine and the panel, and these are prone to corrosion etc.
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Post by ianali on Sept 18, 2020 9:49:16 GMT
Not familiar with Barrus Shire or which domestic alternator you have, but typically there are two alternator warning lights, one for each alternator. What happens when you first switch on the ignition and before starting the engine? Both alternator warning lights should be illuminated. What happens after engine started? Both alternator warning lights should extinguish. Depending on your answers to the above we can look at other things. Usually these sorts of engines have a multi-way connector taking all the wiring between the engine and the panel, and these are prone to corrosion etc. Two lights lit, one stays on after start up.  |
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 18, 2020 9:51:45 GMT
Charging light and buzzer on my Barrus Shire 45 only corresponds to the domestic bank charging. If that helps at all.
Other than that my only help would be how to tell Ian how to turn the annoying buzzer off whilst you investigate...
I think it depends on the age and specific model of the engine. According to google images, most Barrus Shire panels have 2 alternator warning lights, but some only have 1. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2020 9:53:29 GMT
Charging light and buzzer on my Barrus Shire 45 only corresponds to the domestic bank charging. If that helps at all.
Other than that my only help would be how to tell Ian how to turn the annoying buzzer off whilst you investigate...
I think it depends on the age and specific model of the engine. According to google images, most Barrus Shire panels have 2 alternator warning lights, but some only have 1. Think you are correct, that's why I deleted my post after Ian had replied.
eta. I also think my post was wrong as I'm sure when the starter belt 'snapped' I was alerted by the buzzer. Only one light/buzzer though.
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Post by ianali on Sept 18, 2020 9:59:58 GMT
I think it depends on the age and specific model of the engine. According to google images, most Barrus Shire panels have 2 alternator warning lights, but some only have 1. Think you are correct, that's why I deleted my post after Ian had replied. My panel. Top(small) light remains on, as does buzzer.  |
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 18, 2020 10:00:28 GMT
Not familiar with Barrus Shire or which domestic alternator you have, but typically there are two alternator warning lights, one for each alternator. What happens when you first switch on the ignition and before starting the engine? Both alternator warning lights should be illuminated. What happens after engine started? Both alternator warning lights should extinguish. Depending on your answers to the above we can look at other things. Usually these sorts of engines have a multi-way connector taking all the wiring between the engine and the panel, and these are prone to corrosion etc. Two lights lit, one stays on after start up. Ok so first of all, that fat cable with the red tape on it really should be fully protected (insulated) as its connected direct to the battery, not via a fuse. Any metal thing touching that and the alternator or engine case is going to create a shower of molten metal! now to the diagnostic process... do you see the much smaller stud to the right on the big one? That is the connection to the warning light. With the ignition turned on but engine not running, there should be a few volts on it. As in not zero and not 12v, maybe 2v or so. What do you get? If you get zero, try disconnecting that wire but be very careful because of the “live” 12v high current stud adjacent to it. with the wire disconnected and ignition on, engine not running, the warning light should not be illuminated. If it is, it indicates a short to ground somewhere between the back of the panel and that stud. By way if further random checks, check the voltage on that loose wire with ignition on, should be around 12.7v. And if you touch that wire to engine case/ground, the light should illuminate. |
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Post by ianali on Sept 18, 2020 10:05:58 GMT
Two lights lit, one stays on after start up. Ok so first of all, that fat cable with the red tape on it really should be fully protected (insulated) as its connected direct to the battery, not via a fuse. Any metal thing touching that and the alternator or engine case is going to create a shower of molten metal! now to the diagnostic process... do you see the much smaller stud to the right on the big one? That is the connection to the warning light. With the ignition turned on but engine not running, there should be a few volts on it. As in not zero and not 12v, maybe 2v or so. What do you get? If you get zero, try disconnecting that wire but be very careful because of the “live” 12v high current stud adjacent to it. with the wire disconnected and ignition on, engine not running, the warning light should not be illuminated. If it is, it indicates a short to ground somewhere between the back of the panel and that stud. By way if further random checks, check the voltage on that loose wire with ignition on, should be around 12.7v. And if you touch that wire to engine case/ground, the light should illuminate. Point taken on insulation, thanks. Small stud I put voltmeter pos to and negative to engine block? |
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 18, 2020 10:10:48 GMT
Ok so first of all, that fat cable with the red tape on it really should be fully protected (insulated) as its connected direct to the battery, not via a fuse. Any metal thing touching that and the alternator or engine case is going to create a shower of molten metal! now to the diagnostic process... do you see the much smaller stud to the right on the big one? That is the connection to the warning light. With the ignition turned on but engine not running, there should be a few volts on it. As in not zero and not 12v, maybe 2v or so. What do you get? If you get zero, try disconnecting that wire but be very careful because of the “live” 12v high current stud adjacent to it. with the wire disconnected and ignition on, engine not running, the warning light should not be illuminated. If it is, it indicates a short to ground somewhere between the back of the panel and that stud. By way if further random checks, check the voltage on that loose wire with ignition on, should be around 12.7v. And if you touch that wire to engine case/ground, the light should illuminate. Point taken on insulation, thanks. Small stud I put voltmeter pos to and negative to engine block? Yes. Scratch and poke a bit with the engine block to get through the surface corrosion. |
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Post by peterboat on Sept 18, 2020 10:13:32 GMT
Have you checked the fuses and the relay? on my barrus shire if I remember right they got a bit corroded and caused charging issues for me
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Post by ianali on Sept 18, 2020 10:17:00 GMT
Point taken on insulation, thanks. Small stud I put voltmeter pos to and negative to engine block? Yes. Scratch and poke a bit with the engine block to get through the surface corrosion. It reads 1.4 mv |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2020 10:20:21 GMT
Can you pinpoint where the burning smell came from?
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 18, 2020 10:24:24 GMT
Yes. Scratch and poke a bit with the engine block to get through the surface corrosion. It reads 1.4 mv 1.4 millivolts is effectively zero. Disconnect it as above and check voltage on the wire again, to test whether the wire is shorted to -ve somewhere. If there is no short, the floating wire should be at 12.7v with the light not illuminated when ignition on. |
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 18, 2020 10:26:30 GMT
Have you checked the fuses and the relay? on my barrus shire if I remember right they got a bit corroded and caused charging issues for me I think if the relay was faulty, there would be no power to the warning light and thus it wouldn’t be illuminated. |
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