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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2020 19:22:48 GMT
I just cant help it, i look at a boat like the De Groot and think what else is about. This would good for mooring down Conwy. Found this and this i could do thigs with this aswell, front large berth with heads, then build a large rear cabin. Like bow on this. www.findafishingboat.com/af-30/ad-113413I’m gonna stick my neck out and say that’s an Early Marine Mouldings Starfish 10 built by Hugh Easton - mouse it it looks like it’s at Maffets
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Post by mouse on Oct 11, 2020 19:44:40 GMT
I just cant help it, i look at a boat like the De Groot and think what else is about. This would good for mooring down Conwy. Found this and this i could do thigs with this aswell, front large berth with heads, then build a large rear cabin. Like bow on this. www.findafishingboat.com/af-30/ad-113413I’m gonna stick my neck out and say that’s an Early Marine Mouldings Starfish 10 built by Hugh Easton - mouse it it looks like it’s at Maffets Indeed it is Gazza. Thought the area looked familiar and then looking through the pictures confirmed it. Vanguard was there for a while having the molasses or was it heavy fuel oil in the sump removed amongst other things. Speed limit on the Chet I think was severely broken trying to get some heat into the sump contents prior to removal! He showed me a jam jar with some in it, not a pretty sight.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2020 19:48:33 GMT
GRP maybe a better option for Wayne faffer? And hoping for another good name to match Khasshogi
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Post by faffer on Oct 11, 2020 20:14:48 GMT
GRP maybe a better option for Wayne faffer ? And hoping for another good name to match Khasshogi Why you say that kida ?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2020 20:31:29 GMT
GRP maybe a better option for Wayne faffer ? And hoping for another good name to match Khasshogi Why you say that kida ? You suggested the GRP with no cabin. Makes me think you might fancy a cabin building project. I'd prefer the steel boat.
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Post by faffer on Oct 11, 2020 20:33:54 GMT
You suggested the GRP with no cabin. Makes me think you might fancy a cabin building project. I'd prefer the steel boat. lol i suggest any boat that takes my fancy. i prefer steel for a change though. I read it as i should stay with GRP boats, not that one.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2020 20:34:57 GMT
The de Groot looks pretty cool to me.
Why did they take the engines away?
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Post by faffer on Oct 11, 2020 20:48:47 GMT
The de Groot looks pretty cool to me. Why did they take the engines away? From what i reckon is for the rebuild they have had. If they have benn rebuild/furbished thats good enough for me. If the prop gear etc and engine and hull is good that will do me.
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Post by JohnV on Oct 12, 2020 6:29:06 GMT
No not the post immediately above !!! Bugger it !!! I must learn to read the whole thread before replying !!!
^^^^^^^ This in spades !!! Well said gazza Thick steel is not needed on a hull that is well maintained 4mm plate is likely. (let's be honest a hard chine Vee hull is very easy to get at and paint every area when on hard standing) A 3mm bottom, two packed and regularly maintained will last longer than an unpainted never looked at 10mm sewer tube base plate The killer for all plate (thick or thin) is local pitting, 1.5 mm pitting on a 3mm plate is a fail as it is 50% loss on the original scantlings whereas the same pitting on a 6mm plate would possibly get away with an advisory. The moral is ... don't get pitting Watch out for filler and any doublers (I say that because it looks like a doubler on the wheelhouse roof ...... which that high up on a bare shell is a lazy man's repair' I'm probably teaching you to suck eggs but this is more for any other people who might read this
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Post by faffer on Oct 12, 2020 11:54:23 GMT
lol, like your thinking kida. I must getting pastr all this now ha ha. Ok sod the ultrasound. ill do the research and chipping about. Always more than one way of skinning the cat 😉 don’t be hung up on 5mm plus plate thickness - looked after 1/8 (3.2mm) and 3/16 (4.8mm) will last for donkeys years. Salt water cruising steel hulled yachts use this spec as heavy plating can be a bigger negative (high COG giving a tender boat) along with reduced loading capacity, heavier plating - less fuel/water tins of grub that can be safely loaded. Thick plating on inland craft is a relatively new phenomenon - true, it cuts down on ballast and gives a bit more headroom, it vastly inflates build costs and timescales though. All that said your looking at a fine twin engined coastal cruiser not a floating skip that pensioners cashing in their lump sum want to outlast them! Missed this post Gazza. And i agree not thinking on it more. I am concerned if its say 3mm and pitted or corroded then i wold want to replate it. but 5mm then i would just blast if and fill it and paint. dependent on corrosion that is.
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Post by faffer on Oct 12, 2020 12:18:25 GMT
Okeydoke then Gazza, John and Magnetman, can we do a list of the prop and bearings etc that i need to check and how best way to check them. I am ok with engineering etc but the specifics on whats needed to check and how.
Like how do i check shaft wear without removing it, as the bearings could of failed maybe. I am thinking that if its has play in the shaft.
Listen and feel for smooth turning of the prop ?
cheers for all the advice guys anyway.
Oh i ask my mate when he took th epictures if he noticed any water, he did look in the engine bay but the rear cabin was base/bilge was dry.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2020 13:53:13 GMT
Okeydoke then Gazza, John and Magnetman, can we do a list of the prop and bearings etc that i need to check and how best way to check them. I am ok with engineering etc but the specifics on whats needed to check and how. Like how do i check shaft wear without removing it, as the bearings could of failed maybe. I am thinking that if its has play in the shaft. Listen and feel for smooth turning of the prop ? cheers for all the advice guys anyway. Oh i ask my mate when he took th epictures if he noticed any water, he did look in the engine bay but the rear cabin was base/bilge was dry. If the engines are out hopefully the gearboxes came with them. Firstly You are looking for trueness then wear, hold a pointer on the shaft at various points and get T to turn the props, if it's bent the shaft is shagged so no need to look at much else! For wear ideally you want to shove the shafts inboard - depending on the type of gland and inboard prop bearings it has You may need to slacken the sternglands and unbolt bearings, if it has a deapsea type you won't be able to do any of the below so easily. the shafts look to have anodes astern of the p brackets, see if you can shift them down towards the prop to allow the shaft to move in to the boat. Once you've moved you can measure the wear at both stuffing gland and p bracket and compare it to the unworn parts of the shaft. If you can't shove it inboard you should be able to push the shafts back towards the rudder, you'll only see the wear at the p bracket mind. If you can't move the shafts at all the best you can do is check for play at the prop by wrestling with it up and down and side to side. Inboard bearings you can check by levering between a bearer and the shaft.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2020 14:02:17 GMT
Get T to turn the helm while you watch the rudders, they want to turn straight and true with no sign of having been bent - should turn to an angle of about 45° either side of straight ahead.
The rudders look to be spade type - if they have no skeg to sit in and are not too difficult to drop off the steering gear dropping one down for a look see would be wise. You don't need to do both, one will give a good indication of the others condition.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 12, 2020 18:50:58 GMT
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Post by faffer on Oct 12, 2020 19:01:07 GMT
Thanks Gazza for that. ill take my gear down and go over it fully. wish i still had my dial indicator now lol. Guess ill improvise with the vernier taped to a bar lol thanks kida ill report back when i am back
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