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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 9:53:36 GMT
Of course if it were Holland... If it was heavy enough to embed itself then it could be relatively easily extracted using a heavy duty electric winch and an attachment point inside the spike in the bottom section of the tube. They normally use a electric- or an hydraulic winch to pull them up again.
In the beginning they aways used steelcable for the job, but since several years this is replaced by the now used Dyneema Rope.
Here are 2 videos, one about the working of a telescopic spudpole on a motoryacht, and the other about a comparison between a steel rope and a dyneema rope.
Peter.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 11:23:08 GMT
Well thanks again everyone, its been very helpful and informative as usual (and apologies Rog for my tetchy tone above).
Clearly in the very busy spots during summer, if one feels the passing boats are becoming an issue, then it is worth trying spring lines, before considering adding in extra hardware.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 11:49:35 GMT
If you want some ratchet straps Tony, I have a couple of brand new ones on the boat, big truck ones, not the girly ones you get on ebay.
You are welcome to them as we get loads from work.
Let me know, they are orange though.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 12:04:40 GMT
Orange is ideal as good visibility.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 12:29:28 GMT
If you want some ratchet straps Tony, I have a couple of brand new ones on the boat, big truck ones, not the girly ones you get on ebay. You are welcome to them as we get loads from work. Let me know, they are orange though. Thanks very much Dave, thats very kind of you and I sincerely appreciate the offer- but I must be honest, I'm ok with mooring ropes - I think what will solve my little issue- and reduce fore and aft movement- will be to use spring lines when and if things get very busy. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 12:38:30 GMT
If you want some ratchet straps Tony, I have a couple of brand new ones on the boat, big truck ones, not the girly ones you get on ebay. You are welcome to them as we get loads from work. Let me know, they are orange though. Thanks very much Dave, thats very kind of you and I sincerely appreciate the offer- but I must be honest, I'm ok with mooring ropes - I think what will solve my little issue- and reduce fore and aft movement- will be to use spring lines when and if things get very busy. Can you post a picture of the position of mooring ropes ? Are they at enough of an angle? |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 14:10:59 GMT
Thanks very much Dave, thats very kind of you and I sincerely appreciate the offer- but I must be honest, I'm ok with mooring ropes - I think what will solve my little issue- and reduce fore and aft movement- will be to use spring lines when and if things get very busy. Can you post a picture of the position of mooring ropes ? Are they at enough of an angle? In a marina at the moment so not tied up in the normal way, so to speak- but I generally try to make an angle of about 45 degrees between towpath and rope, as per Andrew's diagram earlier. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 14:13:47 GMT
Can you post a picture of the position of mooring ropes ? Are they at enough of an angle? In a marina at the moment so not tied up in the normal way, so to speak- but I generally try to make an angle of about 45 degrees between towpath and rope, as per Andrew's diagram earlier. In which case I can't see why you are slopping about, |
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Post by TonyDunkley on Dec 15, 2020 15:09:01 GMT
Can you post a picture of the position of mooring ropes ? Are they at enough of an angle? In a marina at the moment so not tied up in the normal way, so to speak- but I generally try to make an angle of about 45 degrees between towpath and rope, as per Andrew's diagram earlier. To be properly effective head and stern springs need to be at a much shallower angle to the fore and aft centreline of the boat itself, . . . 45 degrees is far too steep an angle to really count as a 'spring' at all, . . . 10 - 15 degrees maximum is what you must aim for, . . less is even better, and they're best run ashore to a point roughly half way along the length of the boat. To get both springs as tight as possible, put a made-off head spring on first and run against it in ahead gear with the engine on a on a fast idle and the tiller held a few degrees over towards the bank, . . . then make off the stern spring swigging it up as tight as you can BEFORE putting on the stern breast line and then knocking the engine out of gear. There is an alternative way of doing it by getting a stern spring on first, . . but I'll explain that after I'm sure you've understood the head spring method. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 15:25:40 GMT
Did you use that method on your other boat?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 15:37:56 GMT
In a marina at the moment so not tied up in the normal way, so to speak- but I generally try to make an angle of about 45 degrees between towpath and rope, as per Andrew's diagram earlier. To be properly effective head and stern springs need to be at a much shallower angle to the fore and aft centreline of the boat itself, . . . 45 degrees is far too steep an angle to really count as a 'spring' at all, . . . 10 - 15 degrees maximum is what you must aim for, . . less is even better, and they're best run ashore to a point roughly half way along the length of the boat. To get both springs as tight as possible, put a made-off head spring on first and run against it in ahead gear with the engine on a on a fast idle and the tiller held a few degrees over towards the bank, . . . then make off the stern spring swigging it up as tight as you can BEFORE putting on the stern breast line and then knocking the engine out of gear. There is an alternative way of doing it by getting a stern spring on first, . . but I'll explain that after I'm sure you've understood the head spring method. Thanks Tony, I'll have a proper read of this later. There are a few terms that I'll need to translate into landlubber speech (e.g. a made-off head spring), but anything involving swigging things up cant be too bad  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 15, 2020 15:46:30 GMT
In a marina at the moment so not tied up in the normal way, so to speak- but I generally try to make an angle of about 45 degrees between towpath and rope, as per Andrew's diagram earlier. To be properly effective head and stern springs need to be at a much shallower angle to the fore and aft centreline of the boat itself, . . . 45 degrees is far too steep an angle to really count as a 'spring' at all, . . . 10 - 15 degrees maximum is what you must aim for, . . less is even better, and they're best run ashore to a point roughly half way along the length of the boat. To get both springs as tight as possible, put a made-off head spring on first and run against it in ahead gear with the engine on a on a fast idle and the tiller held a few degrees over towards the bank, . . . then make off the stern spring swigging it up as tight as you can BEFORE putting on the stern breast line and then knocking the engine out of gear. There is an alternative way of doing it by getting a stern spring on first, . . but I'll explain that after I'm sure you've understood the head spring method. Have you used this technique on a river Tony?  (thinking, longer ropes and bigger boats there). Small boats, short ropes in small pound has resulted in Chris waking up on me (which was nice..). |
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Post by Gone on Dec 15, 2020 16:40:54 GMT
To be properly effective head and stern springs need to be at a much shallower angle to the fore and aft centreline of the boat itself, . . . 45 degrees is far too steep an angle to really count as a 'spring' at all, . . . 10 - 15 degrees maximum is what you must aim for, . . less is even better, and they're best run ashore to a point roughly half way along the length of the boat. To get both springs as tight as possible, put a made-off head spring on first and run against it in ahead gear with the engine on a on a fast idle and the tiller held a few degrees over towards the bank, . . . then make off the stern spring swigging it up as tight as you can BEFORE putting on the stern breast line and then knocking the engine out of gear. There is an alternative way of doing it by getting a stern spring on first, . . but I'll explain that after I'm sure you've understood the head spring method. Have you used this technique on a river Tony? (thinking, longer ropes and bigger boats there). Small boats, short ropes in small pound has resulted in Chris waking up on me (which was nice..). Now we understand what’s causing the boat to bounce around.......... |
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Post by JohnV on Dec 15, 2020 17:14:38 GMT
Those rubber thingies are fine on tidal moorings with a limited rise and fall Never used them myself but several boats at Benfleet did, I preferred the method I am using here at Beverley where the rise and fall is part tidal and part due to rainfall I use lines with a very heavy weight halfway along thus giving slack when pulled hard enough but taking it up when not needed. When boats go past too fast ...... I throw things at them and yell abuse On non tidal waters where it's boats being the problem ..... moor properly with springs and keep a supply of handy sized throwing objects |
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Post by Jim on Dec 15, 2020 17:30:24 GMT
When I saw the thread title I thought it might be about helping elderly folk who have been kicked off their mooring through no fault of their own.
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(thinking, longer ropes and bigger boats there).
