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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2021 15:25:18 GMT
I have booked a mooring with electric to charge my batteries. There are two 110 ah batteries linked together, I have one 5 amp charger. I have no shoreline, can I use artic twin and earth wired to a double 13 amp socket to plug in my charger. Do I have to disconnect the two batteries. Should I buy an extra car type charger, if so how do I connect to batteries? Take care folks,
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2021 15:36:16 GMT
you need a cable made up to plug into the shoreline and then a 13amp socket at the other end, plug your charger into this and connect to one of your batteries via the crocodile clips, easy.
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Post by tonyb on May 17, 2021 7:58:18 GMT
I am always wary when terms like Auto-charger are used. If it has a (usually green) LED on it that illuminates when it thinks the battery(s) is charged and then drops to around 13.4 to 13.6 volts then Dave's advice is fine. If its an old charger, possibly with some kind of meter on the front and fairly heavy then thee is a good chance its an old transformer & rectifier that is incredibly stupid. On those the more charged the battery becomes the higher the charging voltage it delivers until it is eventually high enough to destroy the battery. That type needs monitoring and I would suggest turning off at around 14.5 volts if you can't buy a modern one.
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Post by JohnV on May 17, 2021 8:51:48 GMT
a 5 amp charger, however basic, connected to 220 Ah of flat lead acids would need one hell of a long time before it would inflict any damage to them
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2021 4:24:45 GMT
I am always wary when terms like Auto-charger are used. If it has a (usually green) LED on it that illuminates when it thinks the battery(s) is charged and then drops to around 13.4 to 13.6 volts then Dave's advice is fine. If its an old charger, possibly with some kind of meter on the front and fairly heavy then thee is a good chance its an old transformer & rectifier that is incredibly stupid. On those the more charged the battery becomes the higher the charging voltage it delivers until it is eventually high enough to destroy the battery. That type needs monitoring and I would suggest turning off at around 14.5 volts if you can't buy a modern one. It's a very smart CTEK purchased on the advice of Tayna , cost abot £80! I used it to revive a big starter battery which had flattened, it will cope with any type of battery, and has lights to shown it's activity. NB, to be clear it is Not designed for 220 amps, only 110, but it is the only thing I have.
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Post by JohnV on May 19, 2021 9:00:10 GMT
I am always wary when terms like Auto-charger are used. If it has a (usually green) LED on it that illuminates when it thinks the battery(s) is charged and then drops to around 13.4 to 13.6 volts then Dave's advice is fine. If its an old charger, possibly with some kind of meter on the front and fairly heavy then thee is a good chance its an old transformer & rectifier that is incredibly stupid. On those the more charged the battery becomes the higher the charging voltage it delivers until it is eventually high enough to destroy the battery. That type needs monitoring and I would suggest turning off at around 14.5 volts if you can't buy a modern one. It's a very smart CTEK purchased on the advice of Tayna , cost abot £80! I used it to revive a big starter battery which had flattened, it will cope with any type of battery, and has lights to shown it's activity. never used one myself but CTEK chargers have a good name
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2021 9:07:21 GMT
I had a cheap Halfords one on my leisure bank for 6 months when in a marina, before i had a hook up, no dramas.
If its only a low amp though it may struggle to keep up when batteries are in use, if pulling anything heavy that is.
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Post by Mr Stabby on May 19, 2021 11:10:09 GMT
I had a Numax 10 amp charger which would keep up with the charging when I was on a shoreline but I blew it up and the only charger in stock at the local car spares place was 6 amp so I bought that but it struggled to keep up with the electrical draw.
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Post by Deleted on May 19, 2021 20:46:17 GMT
Great news, electrician has wired my CTEK charger, I am verboten to change anything. I see it is connected to +ve on a battery, but on a negative on boat wiring. I am getting lessons on electrics, activation seems critical, who would have thought it, anyway, the charger is pretty hot, and voltage pretty high, the lights on the CTEK are progressive.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2021 6:43:32 GMT
you need a cable made up to plug into the shoreline and then a 13amp socket at the other end, plug your charger into this and connect to one of your batteries via the crocodile clips, easy. Not quite, when battery is installed in vehicle, the positive clips to positive, the Negative to the vehicle (negative)
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Post by bodger on May 20, 2021 7:29:19 GMT
you need a cable made up to plug into the shoreline and then a 13amp socket at the other end, plug your charger into this and connect to one of your batteries via the crocodile clips, easy. Not quite, when battery is installed in vehicle, the positive clips to positive, the Negative to the vehicle (negative) I'm now in float, which should be 13.6, but it's not there yet......
well that's clear innit?
..................... err, no !
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2021 8:39:31 GMT
Not quite, when battery is installed in vehicle, the positive clips to positive, the Negative to the vehicle (negative) I'm now in float, which should be 13.6, but it's not there yet......
well that's clear innit?
..................... err, no ! I am saying that the charger should not be on both the battery terminals if the battery is installed in a vehicle, I don't know how else to put it, I am reading the charger manual. PS, Reading said manual, and looking again at charger, it is not in float.
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Post by bodger on May 20, 2021 9:38:29 GMT
AFAIK Most modern vehicles have a separate set of terminals under the bonnet intended for charging. There is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't clip the charger output wires to one of each of the -ve and +ve battery terminals.
It will take a week or so to get the batteries on float with a 5A charger. That is why I bought a so-called "7-stage" PACO 2000 (20A) charger designed for maintaining motorhome batteries (to be left connected over the winter) for my 440Ah bank of batteries.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2021 16:49:20 GMT
AFAIK Most modern vehicles have a separate set of terminals under the bonnet intended for charging. There is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't clip the charger output wires to one of each of the -ve and +ve battery terminals. It will take a week or so to get the batteries on float with a 5A charger. That is why I bought a so-called "7-stage" PACO 2000 (20A) charger designed for maintaining motorhome batteries (to be left connected over the winter) for my 440Ah bank of batteries. Very. Good, I have got my 2 110 batteries up to float with a 5amp CTEK charger in about 24 hours. I did not have a 20 amp smart charger capable of rescuing them on site. I did have a 5 amp CTEK Time is of the essence, if they were damaged since installation, it won't make any difference which charger I used. The electrical engineer connected as I described, maybe he read the manual, or maybe he thinks it's good practice.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2021 18:21:26 GMT
AFAIK Most modern vehicles have a separate set of terminals under the bonnet intended for charging. There is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't clip the charger output wires to one of each of the -ve and +ve battery terminals. It will take a week or so to get the batteries on float with a 5A charger. That is why I bought a so-called "7-stage" PACO 2000 (20A) charger designed for maintaining motorhome batteries (to be left connected over the winter) for my 440Ah bank of batteries. Very. Good, I have got my 2 110 batteries up to float with a 5amp CTEK charger in about 24 hours. I did not have a 20 amp smart charger capable of rescuing them on site. I did have a 5 amp CTEK Time is of the essence, if they were damaged since installation, it won't make any difference which charger I used. The electrical engineer connected as I described, maybe he read the manual, or maybe he thinks it's good practice. bodger is correct. You should connect +ve and -ve direct to the battery terminals, every extra connection in between the charger and batteries is a source of resistance and volt drop. A 5a Cetek is fine to keep a motorbike battery topped up, absolutely useless for charging 220a of batteries in anything like a decent time frame. The PACO 20a chargers bodger mentioned are ok - cheap, no frills and will do a job; much better on a slightly larger budget is the Numax/ABC 20-30A chargers. I was a bit stunned at how dear they are now but they are very good at the lower end of the market. I reckon your ‘electrical engineer’ isn’t as clued up on this as you believe he is. ps, bin the croc clips, the charger cables should be made off using ring terminals.
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