bodgit
Junior Member
Posts: 19
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Post by bodgit on Oct 29, 2016 10:46:36 GMT
Hi, Our inverter has packed up and we have sourced a replacement. While chatting with the salesmen he mentioned earth / neutral bonding and after some investigation realised fitting the replacement might not be as simple as I thought. It turns out the old inverter (fitted before we got the boat) wasn't bonded so I would like to rectify this for the new one. The basic system is as follows, inverter output > socket (blue hook up type) > rcd > fusebox > ring main or shoreline > socket (blue hook up type) > rcd > fusebox > ring main i.e. only one can supply the 240 system at any time. It is impossible to connect both. Does it need the earth / neutral link in the inverter output only so there will be no bonding when useing a shoreline. Or Does the link go in at the rcd or socket so the bond will be in place whatever supply is plugged in ? I do have experience of 12/24v and 415v vehicle electrics / gen sets from a previous job as a transport refrigeration installer so am quite happy about connecting things up but need to know what needs to be connected where. Hope this makes sense, Also have a G.I. to install so more questions to follow Thanks Bodgit
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 29, 2016 10:51:57 GMT
The short answer is that the N-E link should be at the inverter.
Before going into any more detail, which inverter have you bought?
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bodgit
Junior Member
Posts: 19
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Post by bodgit on Oct 29, 2016 10:59:13 GMT
Hi Tonyqj,
its a Ring powersource pro RINVM2000, the instructions show the link going at the rcd but the schematic does not include shorepower, hence the question.
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 29, 2016 11:23:08 GMT
Hi Tonyqj, its a Ring powersource pro RINVM2000, the instructions show the link going at the rcd but the schematic does not include shorepower, hence the question. Hi Bodgit, if the manual for the inverter shows a N-E link then that's great. Just make the link on the output of the inverter (basically within the plug that plugs into it as long as that plug is solely for that purpose). My concern was that not all inverters CAN be linked, so as yours actually shows the link that concern is removed. Then you just treat the output like any other 230V source and use it as you have been doing. Tony
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Post by Graham on Oct 29, 2016 11:34:14 GMT
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 29, 2016 11:42:33 GMT
He said it was, two posts previous.
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Post by Graham on Oct 29, 2016 11:58:18 GMT
He said it was, two posts previous. I am aware he quoted a model number but I would be grateful if he could confirm it is the one at the end of the link.
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 29, 2016 12:06:01 GMT
He said it was, two posts previous. I am aware he quoted a model number but I would be grateful if he could confirm it is the one at the end of the link. Which is the same model number. It strikes me that "Is the NVM2000 the same as the NVM2000?" is a pretty pointless question.
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bodgit
Junior Member
Posts: 19
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Post by bodgit on Oct 29, 2016 12:07:45 GMT
Hi Guys,
yes it is definitely the one in the link, I did email the manufacturer and they did confirm it wasn't internally bonded and that it would be ok to put one in.
I just wanted to be sure of where to put the link, so if I link the earth and neutral pin in the plug that goes in the inverter output all will be ok.
Q2,
the old inverter had a digital voltage display for the batteries, this one doesn't. I'm assuming I can connect a digital voltage display on the inverter input cables from the batteries so I have an idea of the battery state.
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 29, 2016 12:13:40 GMT
Hi Guys, yes it is definitely the one in the link, I did email the manufacturer and they did confirm it wasn't internally bonded and that it would be ok to put one in. I just wanted to be sure of where to put the link, so if I link the earth and neutral pin in the plug that goes in the inverter output all will be ok. Q2, the old inverter had a digital voltage display for the batteries, this one doesn't. I'm assuming I can connect a digital voltage display on the inverter input cables from the batteries so I have an idea of the battery state. Yes and yes 😀 With the caveat about the plug that I made previously.
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Post by Graham on Oct 29, 2016 12:23:47 GMT
Hi Guys, yes it is definitely the one in the link, I did email the manufacturer and they did confirm it wasn't internally bonded and that it would be ok to put one in. I just wanted to be sure of where to put the link, so if I link the earth and neutral pin in the plug that goes in the inverter output all will be ok. Q2, the old inverter had a digital voltage display for the batteries, this one doesn't. I'm assuming I can connect a digital voltage display on the inverter input cables from the batteries so I have an idea of the battery state. I take it that it is CE marked because if it is that it would be internally bonded. but heyo.
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bodgit
Junior Member
Posts: 19
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Post by bodgit on Oct 29, 2016 12:33:36 GMT
Hi Guys, yes it is definitely the one in the link, I did email the manufacturer and they did confirm it wasn't internally bonded and that it would be ok to put one in. I just wanted to be sure of where to put the link, so if I link the earth and neutral pin in the plug that goes in the inverter output all will be ok. Q2, the old inverter had a digital voltage display for the batteries, this one doesn't. I'm assuming I can connect a digital voltage display on the inverter input cables from the batteries so I have an idea of the battery state. Yes and yes 😀 With the caveat about the plug that I made previously. Brilliant, thanks for your help.
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Post by smileypete on Oct 29, 2016 12:38:53 GMT
If you do make up a Neutral-Earth link lead it'd be worth labelling it clearly and indelibly; eg 'Neutral-Earth bond lead, for xxxxx inverter only' - that way it's less likely to be mistakenly used on a normal shore supply.
I would also earth the inverter case to the steelwork with some green/yellow cable and a couple of ring crimps, a decent cable size say like 4mm or 6mm so it can't get damaged easily.
Also one of those cheap three pin socket testers can be plugged in somewhere visible and help verify the earth is functional.
Last but not least, it's worth testing the RCD now and then with the button, but it only checks the RCD itself, not the integrity of the earth.
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bodgit
Junior Member
Posts: 19
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Post by bodgit on Oct 29, 2016 12:42:11 GMT
Graham,
The inverter is on the boat and I am at home so cant check if it is CE marked or not. But the manufacturers technical department confirmed it is not internally bonded.
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bodgit
Junior Member
Posts: 19
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Post by bodgit on Oct 29, 2016 12:49:58 GMT
If you do make up a Neutrel-Earth link lead it'd be worth labelling it clearly and indelibly; eg 'Neutral-Earth bond lead, for xxxxx inverter only' - that way it's less likely to be mistakenly used on a normal shore supply. I would also earth the inverter case to the steelwork with some green/yellow cable, a decent size say like 4mm or 6mm so it can't get damaged easily. Also one of those cheap three pin socket testers can be plugged in somewhere visible and help verify the earth is functional. Last but not least, it's worth testing the RCD now and then with the button, but it only checks the RCD itself, not the integrity of the earth. Thanks for the tips, The whole electrical systems need a good check over as the more I look at the more "iffy things I discover !! Ignorance is bliss isn't it I have got one of these bestpriceonline.co.uk/peakmeter-pm6860er-automatic-electric-socket-tester-neutral-live-earth-wire-testing-rcd-test-uk-plug-230v/to check the sockets with. No instructions supplied though !! I tried it on the home sockets and thankfully they tested ok. i.e green lights to say socket was wired correctly (not tried it on the boat yet) It does have a rcd test button on it, what should I expect to happen when the rcd test button is pushed, I thought pressing the rcd test would trip the rcd but all I got was a red led when the test button was pushed ??
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