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Post by bodger on Oct 30, 2016 12:57:18 GMT
TonyT said
This describes using a stuffing gland directly through the roof if I an reading it correctly. The op's method and the one I used uses a cable box with two stuffing glands. Two different methods and nothing wrong with either imo . So where is the bodge?
I just seem to have problems using the quote function - I must be a Twot !
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Post by Graham on Oct 30, 2016 13:01:25 GMT
Yep simply because it does not sound good, the words are those of a teacher trying to teach a poor student. Lack of respect for others comes to mind. I do not need you to teach me nor wish you to try. BTW I have not the foggiest what a fuckwit is. Not a word I would use Twat. Thank you tomsk
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 30, 2016 13:03:54 GMT
TonyT said This describes using a stuffing gland directly through the roof if I an reading it correctly. The op's method and the one I used uses a cable box with two stuffing glands. Two different methods and nothing wrong with either imo . So where is the bodge? I just seem to have problems using the quote function - I must be a Twot ! The method described of exiting the roof and not using a grommet but bodging some sealant around the cable in the hope that it won't fail and permit a short was the bodge.
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Post by tonyt on Oct 30, 2016 13:08:54 GMT
TonyT said This describes using a stuffing gland directly through the roof if I an reading it correctly. The op's method and the one I used uses a cable box with two stuffing glands. Two different methods and nothing wrong with either imo . So where is the bodge? I just seem to have problems using the quote function - I must be a Twot ! Thank you. I can't get the quote to work properly either
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Post by JohnV on Oct 30, 2016 13:10:40 GMT
If you are going to couple a junction box through the steel purely fixing to the steel with mastic or by using a threaded coupler plus mastic, my (fairly extensive) experience indicates the probability of leaks at some time or another.
The only method I trust where I'm passing a cable through steelwork on a boat is a proper cable gland. I am aware fixing the junction box directly looks neater but I prefer otherwise. In my experience age plus the different expansion rates destroys most mastic joints.
Where it is necessary to join cables before going through the steelwork I would suggest a gel filled junction box then a single cable through a flex gland or stuffing gland (as far as I am aware stuffing gland normally means the brass/BE type for BESA boxes, but I stand to be corrected)
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 30, 2016 13:11:42 GMT
I just seem to have problems using the quote function - I must be a Twot ! Thank you. I can't get the quote to work properly either Write your post AFTER everything else in the quote. And ensure that you use the 'Quote' button at the top of the post you wish to quote, not the one at the bottom (because that's the next post in the thread) 😀
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Post by bodger on Oct 30, 2016 13:37:59 GMT
Write your post AFTER everything else in the quote. And ensure that you use the 'Quote' button at the top of the post you wish to quote, not the one at the bottom (because that's the next post in the thread) 😀 wot, like this?
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 30, 2016 13:39:04 GMT
Write your post AFTER everything else in the quote. And ensure that you use the 'Quote' button at the top of the post you wish to quote, not the one at the bottom (because that's the next post in the thread) 😀 wot, like this? Yay! 😀
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Post by quaysider on Oct 30, 2016 16:30:09 GMT
er cheers fellas... I didn't get around to that today... I seem to have a different problem that was/is more pressing.
The wiring "somewhere" in one of the lighting circuits is fooked - it keeps tripping the mcb (the builder has used a sneider "home" consumer unit.... IGNORING that, I tried to isolate each switched circuit to identy which one was tripping it... to no avail... THEN i removed all the lights ... still no good... THEN I switched the mcb over to one that was working.... HOPING it was a faulty one ... it wasn't... the "swapped" one kept tripping on the circuit. IT's a pain in the bum as it's the kitchen, bathroom and bedroom that won't stay on... all rooms I want work in - in the dart
The only thing I didn't think to try was tightening all the negatives on the busbar in the unit - I'll try that first thing and if no joy, will phone the builder and see if he'll send somoene out - I HOPE they don't have to rip out all the ceiling lining and trims though as we've put 2 coats of varnish on them so far :-(
yours' P'd off of Wakefield....
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Post by JohnV on Oct 30, 2016 16:38:22 GMT
Bummer ......... hopefully it's in a fitting where it is accessible
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Post by Saltysplash on Oct 30, 2016 16:39:06 GMT
Probably wont be the first time you call them either. there's always summat
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Post by JohnV on Oct 30, 2016 16:40:48 GMT
double post ..... twat !!!
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Post by tonyqj on Oct 30, 2016 16:47:39 GMT
er cheers fellas... I didn't get around to that today... I seem to have a different problem that was/is more pressing. The wiring "somewhere" in one of the lighting circuits is fooked - it keeps tripping the mcb (the builder has used a sneider "home" consumer unit.... IGNORING that, I tried to isolate each switched circuit to identy which one was tripping it... to no avail... THEN i removed all the lights ... still no good... THEN I switched the mcb over to one that was working.... HOPING it was a faulty one ... it wasn't... the "swapped" one kept tripping on the circuit. IT's a pain in the bum as it's the kitchen, bathroom and bedroom that won't stay on... all rooms I want work in - in the dart The only thing I didn't think to try was tightening all the negatives on the busbar in the unit - I'll try that first thing and if no joy, will phone the builder and see if he'll send somoene out - I HOPE they don't have to rip out all the ceiling lining and trims though as we've put 2 coats of varnish on them so far :-( yours' P'd off of Wakefield.... Are you saying that kitchen, bedroom and bathroom lights are all on and then after a while the MCB trips? If so, could it simply be overloaded? Too many lights on that circuit? Sorry, just re-read your post. Ignore me. It must be the wiring if it does it with no lights plugged in! D'oh!
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Post by PaulG2 on Oct 30, 2016 18:34:20 GMT
I just seem to have problems using the quote function - I must be a Twot ! Thank you. I can't get the quote to work properly either What you need to do is to make sure that, before you type anything, you make sure the cursor is outside of the quote box. There's usually very little space after the quote box, so sometimes it's not real obvious exactly where your quote is starting.
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Post by PaulG2 on Oct 30, 2016 18:39:29 GMT
er cheers fellas... I didn't get around to that today... I seem to have a different problem that was/is more pressing. The wiring "somewhere" in one of the lighting circuits is fooked - it keeps tripping the mcb (the builder has used a sneider "home" consumer unit.... IGNORING that, I tried to isolate each switched circuit to identy which one was tripping it... to no avail... THEN i removed all the lights ... still no good... THEN I switched the mcb over to one that was working.... HOPING it was a faulty one ... it wasn't... the "swapped" one kept tripping on the circuit. IT's a pain in the bum as it's the kitchen, bathroom and bedroom that won't stay on... all rooms I want work in - in the dart The only thing I didn't think to try was tightening all the negatives on the busbar in the unit - I'll try that first thing and if no joy, will phone the builder and see if he'll send somoene out - I HOPE they don't have to rip out all the ceiling lining and trims though as we've put 2 coats of varnish on them so far :-( yours' P'd off of Wakefield.... Sounds like a wire got crossed in one of your boxes - the ones that your fixtures and receptacles mount onto, not the breaker/fuse box. Easy to fix, once you find the fault.
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