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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2016 20:26:40 GMT
Anyway
My launch is very clearly underpropped but I don't actually know what size the prop is. It seems a lot of agro to dock the boat just to find out prop details. Beaching on the tideway is an option but then if I can't get hold of a suitable replacement its all a bit pointless.
So would it be worth trying to get it off via the weed hatch?
If it all went pear shaped I would ask CRT for an overstay due to prop falling off as the boat has no home mooring. I also have a 6hp outboard which could be strapped on the back in extremis.
I know props sometimes get wedged a bit tight on the taper so it might not be worth it but I am considering it. Or perhaps I can somehow read the measurements stamped into the boss ?
The water is usually very clear after a week of no boats and I have underwater lighting options.
Worth a try ?
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Post by twbm2 on Oct 30, 2016 20:29:05 GMT
Would you be able to to weight the front end down enough to get at from a dinghy?
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Post by JohnV on Oct 30, 2016 20:33:23 GMT
Anyway My launch is very clearly underpropped but I don't actually know what size the prop is. It seems a lot of agro to dock the boat just to find out prop details. Beaching on the tideway is an option but then if I can't get hold of a suitable replacement its all a bit pointless. So would it be worth trying to get it off via the weed hatch? If it all went pear shaped I would ask CRT for an overstay due to prop falling off as the boat has no home mooring. I also have a 6hp outboard which could be strapped on the back in extremis. I know props sometimes get wedged a bit tight on the taper so it might not be worth it but I am considering it. Or perhaps I can somehow read the measurements stamped into the boss ? The water is usually very clear after a week of no boats and I have underwater lighting options. Worth a try ? Bloody Hell !!! I think you're being very ambitious !!! That is a very tight space and an awkward angle to work on a fiddly job and you won't be able to get any leverage on anything. If you can manage to do it, you're a better man than I am Gunga Din
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Post by kris on Oct 30, 2016 20:49:53 GMT
Are there any stair case locks near by? The middle chamber is usually set up to be used as a dry dock. Just drain the water first to check it's okay before dropping the boat.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2016 20:58:53 GMT
No staircases about around here no. The best option is probably beach on the tideway at chiswick or isleworth. There's no particular hurry for it but I seemed to remember someone saying they had done it through the weed hatch. I'm not sure if I imagined it and I don't imagine its easy and would depend on how well locked the prop is on the taper.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2016 21:01:11 GMT
Would you be able to to weight the front end down enough to get at from a dinghy? Not really as its a fairly short but very heavy boat so the back won't "pop up" much.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Oct 30, 2016 21:15:24 GMT
Anyway My launch is very clearly underpropped but I don't actually know what size the prop is. It seems a lot of agro to dock the boat just to find out prop details. Beaching on the tideway is an option but then if I can't get hold of a suitable replacement its all a bit pointless. So would it be worth trying to get it off via the weed hatch? If it all went pear shaped I would ask CRT for an overstay due to prop falling off as the boat has no home mooring. I also have a 6hp outboard which could be strapped on the back in extremis. I know props sometimes get wedged a bit tight on the taper so it might not be worth it but I am considering it. Or perhaps I can somehow read the measurements stamped into the boss ? The water is usually very clear after a week of no boats and I have underwater lighting options. Worth a try ? The best way to go about it is to draw the tailshaft, with the prop still on it, do whatever's needed and then re-install the tailshaft with the new/re-worked prop already fitted. Doing it this way eliminates any chance of any discrepancies in the tapers or fit causing problems if the prop is being changed.
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Post by phoenix on Oct 30, 2016 21:15:26 GMT
diver?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2016 21:20:20 GMT
Anyway My launch is very clearly underpropped but I don't actually know what size the prop is. It seems a lot of agro to dock the boat just to find out prop details. Beaching on the tideway is an option but then if I can't get hold of a suitable replacement its all a bit pointless. So would it be worth trying to get it off via the weed hatch? If it all went pear shaped I would ask CRT for an overstay due to prop falling off as the boat has no home mooring. I also have a 6hp outboard which could be strapped on the back in extremis. I know props sometimes get wedged a bit tight on the taper so it might not be worth it but I am considering it. Or perhaps I can somehow read the measurements stamped into the boss ? The water is usually very clear after a week of no boats and I have underwater lighting options. Worth a try ? The best way to go about it is to draw the tailshaft, with the prop still on it, do whatever's needed and then re-install the tailshaft with the new/re-worked prop already fitted. Doing it this way eliminates any chance of any discrepancies in the tapers or fit causing problems if the prop is being changed. Yes thats probably the best option short of docking . I would have to remove the rudder to do that. I do have a short bit of shaft the right size to plug the stern tube so its doable if the rudder does come off OK. Worth looking at.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Oct 30, 2016 21:56:42 GMT
The best way to go about it is to draw the tailshaft, with the prop still on it, do whatever's needed and then re-install the tailshaft with the new/re-worked prop already fitted. Doing it this way eliminates any chance of any discrepancies in the tapers or fit causing problems if the prop is being changed. Yes thats probably the best option short of docking . I would have to remove the rudder to do that. I do have a short bit of shaft the right size to plug the stern tube so its doable if the rudder does come off OK. Worth looking at. Don't rely on an exterior bung whilst the tailshaft's out. Cut two square pads with a v-notch on opposite sides that will fit over the open face on the inboard end of the stuffing box between the packing follower studs, make one pad out of a piece of scrap ply or similar, and the other one out of rubber,or similar. Withdraw the tailshaft until the end is just inside the stuffing box and lift the packing follower away. Fit the rubber and ply pads between the packing follower studs and tighten them into place with either a couple of washers and the follower nuts, or the packing follower fitted back to front if the studs are at wide enough centres to get the nuts on without fouling the follower OD. Disconnect the greaser pipe at the stuffing box end, to break the suction, and withdraw the tailshaft the rest of the way out. Put a bung in the outer end of the tube to keep the muck out, and re-connect the greaser tube to ensure there's risk of leakage into the boat if any water gets past the bung. You'll need to disconnect the greaser again when feeding the tailshaft back in, to vent the water out of the sterntube.
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Post by Graham on Oct 30, 2016 22:17:59 GMT
Yes thats probably the best option short of docking . I would have to remove the rudder to do that. I do have a short bit of shaft the right size to plug the stern tube so its doable if the rudder does come off OK. Worth looking at. Don't rely on an exterior bung whilst the tailshaft's out. Cut two square pads with a v-notch on opposite sides that will fit over the open face on the inboard end of the stuffing box between the packing follower studs, make one pad out of a piece of scrap ply or similar, and the other one out of rubber,or similar. Withdraw the tailshaft until the end is just inside the stuffing box and lift the packing follower away. Fit the rubber and ply pads between the packing follower studs and tighten them into place with either a couple of washers and the follower nuts, or the packing follower fitted back to front if the studs are at wide enough centres to get the nuts on without fouling the follower OD. Disconnect the greaser pipe at the stuffing box end, to break the suction, and withdraw the tailshaft the rest of the way out. Put a bung in the outer end of the tube to keep the muck out, and re-connect the greaser tube to ensure there's risk of leakage into the boat if any water gets past the bung. You'll need to disconnect the greaser again when feeding the tailshaft back in, to vent the water out of the sterntube. having taken a few props off out of the water I would not want to attempt removal in the water. I would however be quite happy using Tony's method. The only addition I would add for this fumble fingers is a rope secured just behind the prop so I could support the weight in the tail end. I would secure it through the weed hatch and float the rope from under the boat using a small buoy or blown up fender.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Oct 30, 2016 22:25:08 GMT
Don't rely on an exterior bung whilst the tailshaft's out. Cut two square pads with a v-notch on opposite sides that will fit over the open face on the inboard end of the stuffing box between the packing follower studs, make one pad out of a piece of scrap ply or similar, and the other one out of rubber,or similar. Withdraw the tailshaft until the end is just inside the stuffing box and lift the packing follower away. Fit the rubber and ply pads between the packing follower studs and tighten them into place with either a couple of washers and the follower nuts, or the packing follower fitted back to front if the studs are at wide enough centres to get the nuts on without fouling the follower OD. Disconnect the greaser pipe at the stuffing box end, to break the suction, and withdraw the tailshaft the rest of the way out. Put a bung in the outer end of the tube to keep the muck out, and re-connect the greaser tube to ensure there's risk of leakage into the boat if any water gets past the bung. You'll need to disconnect the greaser again when feeding the tailshaft back in, to vent the water out of the sterntube. .... ..... ........ I would secure it through the weed hatch and float the rope from under the boat using a small buoy or blown up fender. Wasn't floating small bouys under boats on lengths of made illegal at the same time as sending them up chimneys ?
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Post by Graham on Oct 30, 2016 22:26:49 GMT
.... ..... ........ I would secure it through the weed hatch and float the rope from under the boat using a small buoy or blown up fender. Wasn't floating small bouys under boats on lengths of made illegal at the same time as sending them up chimneys ? Yea but me doubts neither CRT nor the PLA will be that awake lol
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Post by TonyDunkley on Oct 30, 2016 22:46:34 GMT
Wasn't floating small bouys under boats on lengths of made illegal at the same time as sending them up chimneys ? Yea but me doubts neither CRT nor the PLA will be that awake lol A rope [synthetic, . . polyester or nylon is best] strop is undoubtedly a useful addition, both for withdrawing and re-fitting the tailshaft, particularly if it's quite long and would put excessive strain on the outer bearing/bush and shaft if allowed to hang part way out and unsupported. The length of rope is best rigged by withdrawing the tailshaft by around half it's length and then passing a rope from one dolly, or cleat depending on what sort of boat it is, underneath it and then making it off on the other side dolly or cleat with a bight round it and a rolling hitch back to the standing part so it can be adjusted to just the right length to support the shaft in line with the bearing. The rope is then best left rigged, at exactly the right length, ready for refitting the shaft and propeller as an assembly.
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Post by Graham on Oct 30, 2016 22:54:22 GMT
Yea but me doubts neither CRT nor the PLA will be that awake lol A rope [synthetic, . . polyester or nylon is best] strop is undoubtedly a useful addition, both for withdrawing and re-fitting the tailshaft, particularly if it's quite long and would put excessive strain on the outer bearing/bush and shaft if allowed to hang part way out and unsupported. The length of rope is best rigged by withdrawing the tailshaft by around half it's length and then passing a rope from one dolly, or cleat depending on what sort of boat it is, underneath it and then making it off on the other side dolly or cleat with a bight round it and a rolling hitch back to the standing part so it can be adjusted to just the right length to support the shaft in line with the bearing. The rope is then best left rigged, at exactly the right length, ready for refitting the shaft and propeller as an assembly. In that case I would use two ropes, one fron dolly to dolly and the other as described to support. But that is because I don't have the strength any more
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