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Post by JohnV on Apr 4, 2017 6:06:29 GMT
You would be better of going the Hybrid route and using the electric motor as the generator for the batteries when in diesel mode, less hassle only one prop and its simpler by far honest you are going a long way round a simple issue Sometimes doing something a bit off the wall can be a great deal of fun ........ but it can also take a great deal of time and effort to re-invent the wheel. I have a weakness for heading off down my own route but I have gone down some very twisted routes ........ only to end up in the middle of nowhere ! (I must confess it is very satisfying when you find a unique way to solve a problem ........ even if it is not as efficient as the conventional answer) (I blame the Heath Robinson cartoons )
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2017 6:30:19 GMT
You would be better of going the Hybrid route and using the electric motor as the generator for the batteries when in diesel mode, less hassle only one prop and its simpler by far honest you are going a long way round a simple issue I'm not convinced about that. Cost. How much is it to get the lynch motor, speed controller, regen electronics? For my setup the motors are £250 each (2 of), pwm speed controllers £20 each (2 of). Leece Neville 160a alternator £200. So about £750 for the electric and electronic parts. Excluding batteries. Another thing is trolling motors are very very quiet as the motor is in a pod underwater. I've heard from an owner that a lynch motor onto a conventional shaft and prop is quite noisy. And trolling motors are propped to move heavy boats slowly.
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Post by peterboat on Apr 4, 2017 9:25:24 GMT
I have a lynch motor original, not a lynch copy and its quiet, plus its designed to do the job all day long and is expensive for a reason . Normally things are cheap because they are and something made that way is rarely a bargain, or reliable
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2017 10:20:45 GMT
I have a lynch motor original, not a lynch copy and its quiet, plus its designed to do the job all day long and is expensive for a reason . Normally things are cheap because they are and something made that way is rarely a bargain, or reliable Minn Kota trolling motors are cheap because of mass production. They are good at what they do not high quality as such but very effective secondary propulsion systems. I'm not after an electric boat I would just like the option to use electric occasionally like around locks and other slow speed maneouvering. I'm not ruling out a hybrid as that might be the best arrangement but I am not convinced that the regen option is very doable without a lot of rather expensive electronics. I don't think it was the motor itself which was noisy it was the driveline ie a normal prop shaft with large heavy propeller on it.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2017 10:23:57 GMT
I'd ideally have a couple of these starboats.eu/en/e-tech-2-pod-24v-517Only thing is they will increase the drag when using the diesel, which would also happen with my cheap heath robinson arrangement.
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Post by peterboat on Apr 4, 2017 11:54:48 GMT
I have a lynch motor original, not a lynch copy and its quiet, plus its designed to do the job all day long and is expensive for a reason . Normally things are cheap because they are and something made that way is rarely a bargain, or reliable Minn Kota trolling motors are cheap because of mass production. They are good at what they do not high quality as such but very effective secondary propulsion systems. I'm not after an electric boat I would just like the option to use electric occasionally like around locks and other slow speed maneouvering. I'm not ruling out a hybrid as that might be the best arrangement but I am not convinced that the regen option is very doable without a lot of rather expensive electronics. I don't think it was the motor itself which was noisy it was the driveline ie a normal prop shaft with large heavy propeller on it. Got ya if its just for maneuvering its just short bursts so should last in that case I would just in first instance put a split charging system on it to try it out? I paid £1300 ish for my system for regen in wasnt much more but that was 8 years ago I will let you know how noisy it is when I have done the trial fit
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Post by peterboat on Apr 4, 2017 12:04:36 GMT
I'd ideally have a couple of these starboats.eu/en/e-tech-2-pod-24v-517Only thing is they will increase the drag when using the diesel, which would also happen with my cheap heath robinson arrangement. MMMM very neat I am in the EBA and do follow the stuff that is going on and really believe that electric is the future for boats how long away that is couldnt tell but the Broads are on it big style so thats where I want to put my boat when its done
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2017 12:11:33 GMT
Minn Kota trolling motors are cheap because of mass production. They are good at what they do not high quality as such but very effective secondary propulsion systems. I'm not after an electric boat I would just like the option to use electric occasionally like around locks and other slow speed maneouvering. I'm not ruling out a hybrid as that might be the best arrangement but I am not convinced that the regen option is very doable without a lot of rather expensive electronics. I don't think it was the motor itself which was noisy it was the driveline ie a normal prop shaft with large heavy propeller on it. Got ya if its just for maneuvering its just short bursts so should last in that case I would just in first instance put a split charging system on it to try it out? I paid £1300 ish for my system for regen in wasnt much more but that was 8 years ago I will let you know how noisy it is when I have done the trial fit Split charge from the main alternator is a good idea I think electric will make a comeback at some point but for heavier boats like canal boats unless you want to spend a lot of money and have access to national grid electric then diesel is the better choice. electric for slow maneouvering has potential I think but maybe not worthwhile overall. Worth playing with
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Post by faffer on Apr 4, 2017 15:56:54 GMT
some ideas i have been given for you kida You can get split sprockets for go karts so what about chain, rather than belt, drive ? Problem with a split pulley is he'd still have to remove prop shaft to attach a standard type drive belt. At least with chain you could have split link Another idea is attach a small rubber tyred wheel to the alternator and have friction drive on the prop with a spring that kept the tension. www.scag.com/splitsteelpulleys.html use 4bolt type, then cut in half through dia make two bearing shell type flanges to go round the propshaft, drill and tap the flanges longitudinally to suit the pulley hold the flanges around the prop with the bolts, but with the four separate pieces opposite to each other to line it all up ' run two equal jubilee clips together and round the flanges to clamp the flange onto the shaft tighten the bolts fully use nut link belting then no tensioning needed and bingo an alt drive ! things for you to mjuch on. I like the idea of a wheel on the alternator driven off the prop.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2017 16:39:42 GMT
Friction drive sounds interesting
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Post by faffer on Apr 4, 2017 16:46:19 GMT
Friction drive sounds interesting Idea i have for it would be have the alt fitted to a bracket so i can be detached/swung out the way from the prop. My compressor has given me an aswel to give the pressure/load needed on the prop.
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Post by jam on Apr 5, 2017 21:33:35 GMT
Don't forget that if you have a split pulley ....... you will need a splittable belt !!! From my days in the mill I recollect they were called 'button v belts' whereby the links could be added or removed. Very robust they were too. I believe that Fenner do a similar modern product called Super T Link Belt
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2017 20:03:40 GMT
Just did an image search for fenner T link belt. I've got one of those kicking around somewhere which someone gave me so maybe I can use it.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2017 15:18:01 GMT
I wonder about cutting a pulley in two and bolting it to a split clamp shaft collar like this : www.bearingboys.co.uk/Double-Split-/CADB38Z--38mm-Shaft-Collar-Double-Split-40390-pBearing in mind it is purely for testing purposes without the need to disconnect the propshaft coupling which is a clamp type with keyway (not rocket science to disconnect to be fair). Permanent install would obviously be a taperlock pulley.
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Post by lollygagger on Apr 7, 2017 16:16:01 GMT
Perhaps, if it's in a suitable place, something that utilises the coupling bolts?
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