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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 10:08:03 GMT
On the subject of isolator switches. I had one which went closed circuit in both positions! I don't rely on them anymore and always disconnect the battery before messing about with the electrics.
Foxy, it would be a good idea to trace your battery connections and draw a diagram before you do anything.
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Post by Jim on Feb 25, 2020 10:08:23 GMT
Why keep the correct method secret? Because this way only the chosen are privy to the gospel... Of self appointed martyr and Saint Anthony?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 10:13:55 GMT
So the circuit breaker popped when the pump switch was activated. The pump was found to be seized. It seems at least possible that the circuit overloaded for that reason thus tripping the breaker. Isn't that what a circuit breaker is supposed to do? The circuit did not trip the breaker when the faulty pump was removed...because there was at that point no circuit? The breaker tripped out when the 'new' pump was added because a) the 'new' pump is faulty or b) there is a short to earth somewhere else in the circuit (think melted or chafed insulation on a wire) which occurred when the seized pump overloaded the circuit. Maybe. Stop guessing and test the circuit for continuity by sticking the probes of a multimeter into the connectors where the pump connects. They are cheap and you can buy one from just about motor parts factor. Maybe even Argos. I don't get why you are fannying about with the batteries in the first place. www.pdfdrive.com/the-12-volt-doctors-practical-handbook-for-the-boats-electric-system-d187622093.html
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 10:40:47 GMT
Because this way only the chosen are privy to the gospel... Of self appointed martyr and Saint Anthony? Actually I think it was Saint Peter preaching the epistles to the apostles
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Post by Jim on Feb 25, 2020 10:42:13 GMT
Of self appointed martyr and Saint Anthony? Actually I think it was Saint Peter preaching the epistles to the apostles Taking the epistle!
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Post by lollygagger on Feb 25, 2020 11:09:17 GMT
This battery stuff - it does need repeating, one can get in a proper pickle, or at least one of my neighbours did...
He decided that before he went cruising he would update a few things, one being the domestic battery isolator switch which on his cruiser stern was mounted on a sort of steel box with no underside outside on the back. So he loosened the nut, pushed the switch back through into the steel box and shorted out his domestic batteries.
The cables melted and so did the cable ties holding them in place. One cut the corner off a battery adding to the fun and the smoke could be seen for a fair distance. The chap didn't even have a spanner to disconnect the batteries and burnt his hands on the hot cables and acid while trying to tear them off and stop the disaster. The cables also melted through his indoor type 240v extension to his washing machine (under a tarp on the deck). I must confess that I collapsed into hysterics at the state of all this and that he didn't disconnect the batteries and he didn't speak to me again despite my offering to help him sort it out. He thought 12v was as dangerous as a torch battery. I always react to disaster by laughing, I can't help it - I started laughing at my own follies then it spread to everyone elses and this was one of the biggest heap of poop wiring and idiocy I've ever seen. Oops. He also had an inboard petrol engine GRP boat and didn't know what a bilge blower was. I was relieved when he moved on.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 11:10:18 GMT
So the circuit breaker popped when the pump switch was activated. The pump was found to be seized. It seems at least possible that the circuit overloaded for that reason thus tripping the breaker. Isn't that what a circuit breaker is supposed to do? The circuit did not trip the breaker when the faulty pump was removed...because there was at that point no circuit? The breaker tripped out when the 'new' pump was added because a) the 'new' pump is faulty or b) there is a short to earth somewhere else in the circuit (think melted or chafed insulation on a wire) which occurred when the seized pump overloaded the circuit. Maybe. Stop guessing and test the circuit for continuity by sticking the probes of a multimeter into the connectors where the pump connects. They are cheap and you can buy one from just about motor parts factor. Maybe even Argos. I don't get why you are fannying about with the batteries in the first place. www.pdfdrive.com/the-12-volt-doctors-practical-handbook-for-the-boats-electric-system-d187622093.htmlIt is customary to read the WHOLE thread before commenting. The bit about his BSS will answer why he's "fannying about with the batteries". I have taken as a guiding principle Red Adairs wise words, that if you think professionals are expensive, wait until you've had amateurs in. If you don't know what you're doing naughtyfox, I'd get someone who does to do the job, showing you how along the way, then it's done once, done right, and you're better able to deal with any future issues. Rog
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 11:34:47 GMT
So the circuit breaker popped when the pump switch was activated. The pump was found to be seized. It seems at least possible that the circuit overloaded for that reason thus tripping the breaker. Isn't that what a circuit breaker is supposed to do? The circuit did not trip the breaker when the faulty pump was removed...because there was at that point no circuit? The breaker tripped out when the 'new' pump was added because a) the 'new' pump is faulty or b) there is a short to earth somewhere else in the circuit (think melted or chafed insulation on a wire) which occurred when the seized pump overloaded the circuit. Maybe. Stop guessing and test the circuit for continuity by sticking the probes of a multimeter into the connectors where the pump connects. They are cheap and you can buy one from just about motor parts factor. Maybe even Argos. I don't get why you are fannying about with the batteries in the first place. www.pdfdrive.com/the-12-volt-doctors-practical-handbook-for-the-boats-electric-system-d187622093.htmlIt is customary to read the WHOLE thread before commenting. Not lately Boris
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 11:39:30 GMT
So the circuit breaker popped when the pump switch was activated. The pump was found to be seized. It seems at least possible that the circuit overloaded for that reason thus tripping the breaker. Isn't that what a circuit breaker is supposed to do? The circuit did not trip the breaker when the faulty pump was removed...because there was at that point no circuit? The breaker tripped out when the 'new' pump was added because a) the 'new' pump is faulty or b) there is a short to earth somewhere else in the circuit (think melted or chafed insulation on a wire) which occurred when the seized pump overloaded the circuit. Maybe. Stop guessing and test the circuit for continuity by sticking the probes of a multimeter into the connectors where the pump connects. They are cheap and you can buy one from just about motor parts factor. Maybe even Argos. I don't get why you are fannying about with the batteries in the first place. www.pdfdrive.com/the-12-volt-doctors-practical-handbook-for-the-boats-electric-system-d187622093.htmlIt is customary to read the WHOLE thread before commenting. Ask Johnv about this...
(Must read to the end of the thread before posting...)
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Post by Isambard Kingdom Brunel on Feb 25, 2020 12:39:54 GMT
So the circuit breaker popped when the pump switch was activated. The pump was found to be seized. It seems at least possible that the circuit overloaded for that reason thus tripping the breaker. Isn't that what a circuit breaker is supposed to do? The circuit did not trip the breaker when the faulty pump was removed...because there was at that point no circuit? The breaker tripped out when the 'new' pump was added because a) the 'new' pump is faulty or b) there is a short to earth somewhere else in the circuit (think melted or chafed insulation on a wire) which occurred when the seized pump overloaded the circuit. Maybe. Stop guessing and test the circuit for continuity by sticking the probes of a multimeter into the connectors where the pump connects. They are cheap and you can buy one from just about motor parts factor. Maybe even Argos. I don't get why you are fannying about with the batteries in the first place. www.pdfdrive.com/the-12-volt-doctors-practical-handbook-for-the-boats-electric-system-d187622093.htmlIf you don't know what you're doing naughtyfox , I'd get someone who does to do the job, showing you how along the way, then it's done once, done right, and you're better able to deal with any future issues. Rog Please ! Let me come and see you and show you exactly what can go wrong, I'll laugh my t*ts off !!!
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Post by Mr Stabby on Feb 25, 2020 14:25:10 GMT
Fairly unlikely that the fault is with the pressure switch.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Feb 25, 2020 16:04:08 GMT
Well, you could try taking the pressure switch out of the one with the seized motor and putting it in the one that runs and see if that does anything.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 25, 2020 16:06:34 GMT
Fairly unlikely that the fault is with the pressure switch. Pump comes on when switch at switchboard turned on, with all taps closed. It shouldn't. Keeps running when taps turned off, but goes slower and slower until fuse pops. It should stop as soon as taps are closed. What else would cause this other than faulty pressure switch? How do the pressure rating, pumping capacity, and current draw figures for the new pump compare with the old one ?
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Post by JohnV on Feb 25, 2020 16:18:59 GMT
Fairly unlikely that the fault is with the pressure switch. Pump comes on when switch at switchboard turned on, with all taps closed. It shouldn't. Keeps running when taps turned off, but goes slower and slower until fuse pops. It should stop as soon as taps are closed. What else would cause this other than faulty pressure switch? that sounds like a sensible conclusion Ross and unless the pumps are exactly the same make, model and age you will almost certainly be wasting your time trying to change the pressure switch over. Your conclusion that you need a new pump is almost certainly the correct one The only sensible reason for repairing either knackered pumps is to keep it as a spare, ready for the next time it fails. edit to add .... of course what actually happens next time it goes, is that you can't find where the hell you hid the spare one .... and end up buying another one anyway
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 16:48:28 GMT
Fairly unlikely that the fault is with the pressure switch. Pump comes on when switch at switchboard turned on, with all taps closed. It shouldn't. Keeps running when taps turned off, but goes slower and slower until fuse pops. It should stop as soon as taps are closed. What else would cause this other than faulty pressure switch? It could be related to sun cream interacting with the galley taps.
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