Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 8:33:15 GMT
Hi folks, hopefully someone will have seen something like this before and have some ideas for solutions... Yesterday at about 5pm, with the help of my boating buddy, I removed a T connector on the 15mm water pipe under the sink (the T led off to feed the cassette toilet), and we replaced the T connector with a in-line connector, effectively joining the original pipe back together. This morning I noticed a large damp patch in the carpet close to the forward steps (the water pump is under the steps), so I removed the steps and there is a leak, slow but persistent, that looks as if it is coming from underneath the pump. Looking at the extent of the wet patch on the carpet, I would bet the leak started around the time of replacing the T junction yesterday. The joints on the pipes leading in and out of the pump seem dry to the touch, and the slowly spreading wet patch appears to come from underneath the pump itself- it might show in the photos. imgur.com/a/pT5iZCDMy next step thought is to stop the water supply into it with what looks like a stop screw thing on the inlet pipe, and then either lift it or remove it to see if I can find the leak. But how much of a coincidence is it that the pump or adjacent jointing should spring a leak almost as soon as yesterdays plumbing job was done? Obviously the pump is 5 years old, but it was running fine until our fix job yesterday, and the carpet was definitely dry yesterday. Taking out the T piece for the toilet surely hasnt led to any changes in water pressure, or anything else that could affect the water pump? I did turn the water pump off on the main elewctical switch panel during the fix- but again, suely that wouldnt cause a leak? I'm at Gayton and fortunately I have the car today, so I can abandon work and get to Braunston this morning if I need a new pump- unless I can find one closer. They may even have one in Gayton marina chandlery.
|
|
|
Post by lollygagger on Sept 11, 2020 8:44:16 GMT
I would guess that while you were swapping fittings you disturbed and caused a leak at one of those many fittings which may have been temporary...or not. I'd crack the speedy fitting and push them together to check. Find nothing I might tweak up the compression fittings but careful with those on the plastic pipe.
That pump installation looks like it was done by a one pawed drunk badger with zero common sense. Stressing plastic pipes is foolish. Chaining all those pipes and fittings then sawing a hole because of how it ended up? - narrowboat engineering at it's all too often normal standard.
|
|
|
Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 11, 2020 8:47:04 GMT
Probably just coincidence. Try tightening up all the connections.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 9:13:33 GMT
Thanks guys, the leak seems to be directly under the pump itself- the joints in and out of it all feel dry to the touch.
|
|
|
Post by Mr Stabby on Sept 11, 2020 9:17:35 GMT
Thanks guys, the leak seems to be directly under the pump itself- the joints in and out of it all feel dry to the touch. The fucking fucker's fucking fucked then.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 9:28:11 GMT
New pump time! Sometimes they are repairable but not always. You could spend days fiddling with it and it will still leak Off to the chandlers for a newun
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 9:31:00 GMT
Thanks guys, the leak seems to be directly under the pump itself- the joints in and out of it all feel dry to the touch. The fucking fucker's fucking fucked then. Yes, this tallies with my interpretation of events Just a bit odd that the pump should start leaking just after a minor piping change, but hey ho- its a few years old.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 9:35:31 GMT
Badly fitted shurflo on a boat is nothing new as lollygagger points out. Odds on its leaking from the front end of the pump. Get a shurflo trailking to replace it, it will come with the correct hose tails, I'll post a link to a 15mm push fit to 1/2" hose tail. Bin all that crap off and jobs a good un. You can spend lots on pumps, people bad mouth shurflo bit they are cheap, easy to come by and reliable if installed correctly.
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Sept 11, 2020 9:36:47 GMT
I'd be tempted to get a couple of push fit 90deg and a bit of pipe, route the pipe without the straining. Isolating valves before and after the pump too, though hopefully it will last years.
For finding little leaks and drips, a sheet of dry kitchen towel under the suspected area, the slightest drip shows up.
|
|
|
Post by naughtyfox on Sept 11, 2020 9:43:21 GMT
Yet everyone kept telling me how good Jabsco water pumps are! Our marina said, yes, they are the best and ordered one for us. How disappointed I was to see Made in China on it. Buy British! Only you can't.
|
|
|
Post by naughtyfox on Sept 11, 2020 9:44:59 GMT
For finding little leaks and drips, a sheet of dry kitchen towel under the suspected area, the slightest drip shows up. We have spent more on kitchen towel than diesel for our boat in the past 6 years. Fact.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 9:45:47 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Sept 11, 2020 9:45:48 GMT
For finding little leaks and drips, a sheet of dry kitchen towel under the suspected area, the slightest drip shows up. We have spent more on kitchen towel than diesel for our boat in the past 6 years. Fact. Prostate?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 9:57:16 GMT
Cheers folks, yes its definitely the body of the pump that's leaking, time to visit the chandlery!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2020 10:00:09 GMT
I'd be tempted to get a couple of push fit 90deg and a bit of pipe, route the pipe without the straining. Isolating valves before and after the pump too, though hopefully it will last years. For finding little leaks and drips, a sheet of dry kitchen towel under the suspected area, the slightest drip shows up. No need for service valves either side of the pump. It's not like a central heating pump where valves stop you having to drain the complete system. Ther be should be valve at the water tank outlet fitting, everything after is superfluous. Particularly if the pump is mounted under the step very near to the water tank. If a pump fails you only need to disconnect power supply, shut tank outlet valve, open taps, remove and replace. Takes minutes. No help to Tony but we keep a spare on board. Not had to replace it yet though 👍
|
|