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Post by Clinton Cool on Mar 26, 2024 18:24:51 GMT
Wot e said. Loads of 'hey gang let's do some welding' YouTube vidz. Some of them are good. Stick with smaw (haha). And a rule of thumb is, 'did the weld hold after hitting it with a hammer'? Totally go for it. Practice with scrap. BTW welding to the bike frame not a good idea. Stick with clamps. But if you decide to do it anyway remove the battery and ignition unit first. Maybe the reg-rec as well. The key clamps of which you speak look quite good, I have to say. Hmm I may have to scrap the welding idea. I don't like the sound of 'welding to the bike frame not a good idea' If I wasn't a bit nervous about it before, I am now. I think I'd have to expose a piece of bright metal elsewhere on the frame as well, to attach the negative, I'm not keen on that idea either. I now wonder if doing up a substantial, 10mm bolt with nut really tight (wrench and hammer maybe) to fix the single legged key clamp to the lug on the frame might be sufficient to stop the possibilityof the thing swinging down under the weight, and dangerously touching the road. Epoxy as well maybe? Or is there perhaps a material I could use between the key clamp and the lug on the frame before tightening up, that would improve the grip between the two? Edit: Nord-lock washers??
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Post by Jim on Mar 26, 2024 18:35:41 GMT
Without seeing a pic of the situation, a bolt especially 10mm should be as good as any weld, though if I understand right you want to make it tight enough not to swivel? That won't work imho, you need 2 fixing points, the further apart the better. Use thread lock and a nylock nut if you are worried about things coming undone.
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Post by Aloysius on Mar 26, 2024 18:40:22 GMT
Welding directly to the bike frame is probably best avoided because you are modifying the bike itself but there's no structural reason why you shouldn't do it.
Best to stick to clamps of some type though. Only my opinion.
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Post by Aloysius on Mar 26, 2024 18:47:51 GMT
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Post by on Mar 26, 2024 18:51:10 GMT
Stauff clamps. And for the locking nuts use binx nuts they are brilliant. Make nyloc look very mickey mouse. 28mm stauff clamp
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Post by Clinton Cool on Mar 26, 2024 18:54:59 GMT
Without seeing a pic of the situation, a bolt especially 10mm should be as good as any weld, though if I understand right you want to make it tight enough not to swivel? That won't work imho, you need 2 fixing points, the further apart the better. Use thread lock and a nylock nut if you are worried about things coming undone. Yes, it's to avoid it swivelling, rather than coming loose. Unfortunately there's only 1 possible fixing point. I've just edited my previous post having seen Nord-lock washers. These seem to bite into the metal, might help. Actually, when I run the horizontal steel rearwards and form the u cradle, part of this will be directly alongside the rear pannier carrier. This is made of relatively thin tubing but belt and braces, if I lashed the two together it would prevent the thing from swivelling downwards. Would start to look naff though (might draw the attention of plod) , and increase the set up time but if that's the safest way, I'll do that. One things for sure. When I've finished this I'm going to make yet another attempt to try to post pictures here. You all deserve a good laugh, after all the help you've offered
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Post by Aloysius on Mar 26, 2024 19:04:58 GMT
Also suggest sitting on the idea for a short while and let the details gestate a bit. I feel confident you'll arrive at a much improved start-point.
Without wishing to complicate matters further, building in a way of easily separating and joining the effort with the minimum of spanners is desirable, I should think.
The clamps Andrew loves so much do seem to have potential.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Mar 26, 2024 19:16:11 GMT
Also suggest sitting on the idea for a short while and let the details gestate a bit. I feel confident you'll arrive at a much improved start-point. Without wishing to complicate matters further, building in a way of easily separating and joining the effort with the minimum of spanners is desirable, I should think. The clamps Andrew loves so much do seem to have potential. Reasonably quick set up and dismantling is a priority. If I can find a solution to the swivelling issue it would be one bolt at the front, and tighten down the allen screw in the fitting 'clamp on tee'. The rear would be a single bolt. And a bit of lashing if I can't think of a different solution. Not too bad really. I'm sure Andrew's clamps are good but I can't imagine a use for them here. They seem to hold a tube firmly but offer no other fixing capability.
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Post by Aloysius on Mar 26, 2024 19:22:53 GMT
Two key things I would go for: make some sort of bracket that can be fixed to (for argument's sake) a stauff clamp which you can weld or bolt anything you like to, the stauff clamp being the only thing that actually connects to the bike frame. The bracket you make can be as simple as an L-shaped bit of metal that you cut from a bit of angle iron.
Build in triangulation to the surfboard carrier frame thing because triangles are inherently rigid. Find a pic of almost any Ducati to see what I mean.
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Post by Aloysius on Mar 26, 2024 19:25:31 GMT
Also suggest sitting on the idea for a short while and let the details gestate a bit. I feel confident you'll arrive at a much improved start-point. Without wishing to complicate matters further, building in a way of easily separating and joining the effort with the minimum of spanners is desirable, I should think. The clamps Andrew loves so much do seem to have potential. I'm sure Andrew's clamps are good but I can't imagine a use for them here. They seem to hold a tube firmly but offer no other fixing capability. Make the L shaped bracket so that it has two holes corresponding to the bolts on the clamp. Bolt it all up together. Simple.
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Post by on Mar 26, 2024 19:29:18 GMT
Binx nuts.
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Post by Jim on Mar 26, 2024 19:30:43 GMT
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Post by on Mar 26, 2024 19:32:20 GMT
Tbis 35mm Stauff clamp has 4 separate parts. The top steel part is a flat plate with holes. Two halves of the nylon clamp then the bottom steel part has two threaded holes with bosses which protrude into holes in the lower half. All these parts can be separated so yes you can weld the bottom part then assemble the clamp without having to use a nut on the bottom of it. If you don't want the pipe to rotate you can drill a 6mm hole from tbe top in the centre through all the parts and the pipe and knock a roll pin in it. As long as the pin is sitting in the steel parts top and bottom and sized right nothing will move.
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Post by on Mar 26, 2024 19:34:54 GMT
Why are binx nuts similar to women? Neither can be unscrewed.
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Post by Aloysius on Mar 26, 2024 19:42:37 GMT
Tbis 35mm Stauff clamp has 4 separate parts. The top steel part is a flat plate with holes. Two halves of the nylon clamp then the bottom steel part has two threaded holes with bosses which protrude into holes in the lower half. All these parts can be separated so yes you can weld the bottom part then assemble the clamp without having to use a nut on the bottom of it. If you don't want the pipe to rotate you can drill a 6mm hole from tbe top in the centre through all the parts and the pipe and knock a roll pin in it. As long as the pin is sitting in the steel parts top and bottom and sized right nothing will move. Talk about making a simple idea complicated. And also drilling holes into one's motorcycle frame is a dumb idea.
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