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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:55:30 GMT
Created by Dan at 2:07pm now, apparently, hidden.
Is he hiding his own threads now?
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:50:25 GMT
Another word of nautical origin is "aloof" . Deriving from 'Aloft'?
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:46:36 GMT
That's a sad story MM. You have my sympathies.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:42:12 GMT
Sorry, I missed the pretty obvious "I charge my Trojans" bit!
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:41:15 GMT
Out of interest this is what the well respected BatteryFAQ website has to say about Absorb and Float "9.1.2. The ABSORPTION stage is where the charger voltage, depending on the battery type, is constant between 14.1 VDC and 14.8 VDC at 80° F (26.7° C) and the current decreases until the battery is fully charged, which is typically the last 20% of the recharge. For wet batteries, gassing ( making a bubbling sound) usually starts at 80% to 90% of a full charge and is normal. A full charge typically occurs when the charging current drops off to 2% (C/50) or less of the AH capacity of the battery and each cell of a wet battery is moderately gassing equally. For example, end current for a 50 AH (C/20) battery is approximately 1.0 amp (1000 milliamps) or less. If the battery will not "hold" a charge, the current does not drop after the estimated recharge time, and a wet battery is hot (above 125° F (51.5° C)), then the battery may have some permanent sulfation. (Please refer to Section 16 for more information about sulfation and how to remove it.) Manual two-stage chargers that have a bulk and absorption stage must be turned off when the battery is fully charged to prevent overcharging. 9.1.3. The optional FLOAT stage is where the charge voltage, depending on the battery type, is reduced to between 13.0 VDC and 13.8 VDC at 80° F (26.7° C), held constant. It can be used indefinitely to maintain a fully charged battery to overcome the natural self-discharge of the battery. The current is reduced to approximately 1% (C/100) or less. Three-stage "smart" chargers usually have the bulk, absorption and float stages. (Please refer to Section 13 for more information about storing batteries and continuous float charging.)" I pretty much agree with all of that. Although where is says "The current is reduced..." I take it to mean as a result of the battery's demand, not the charger's max output. The important point is that float is not entered until after the battery is fully charged, and that float is a maintenance function Is it possible to nail this down a bit? Okay, I can't hear anything over the sound of the engine (the first bit I've highlighted) but what does "moderately gassing" mean? I charge my Trojans at 14.8v and the bubbles are a bit like a glass of pop. That is, about once a second, more or less, I see a small bubble come to the surface. The impression I get, when people mention gassing, is one of a saucepan, more or less, bubbling away. What batteries do you have? If they're Trojans then they will only gas 'lightly' at 14.8V. A 'standard' leisure battery (whatever that is) will bubble maybe not as fast as a rapidly boiling pan of water, but will be a pretty constant, albeit gentle, burble.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:38:33 GMT
My point was that his heart wasn't really in the debate for whatever reason Spot on
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:36:01 GMT
I think there is no doubt that the SG copes fine when the solar is producing 30A. Or even 20A. Or even 10A. Same as when a charger is connected. It does not necessarily become inaccurate, it may do over time, until the next discharge cycle. where there has been some doubt expressed is when the solar is producing just a trickle such that the SG is not quite sure whether it's in charging mode or discharging mode. However as I said, lots of people with solar + SG say this never gives them a problem. I can't comment from 1st hand experience since I don't have solar. The issue has never been quantified so I strongly suspect it is imagination. I have solar and a SG (and recently a battery monitor).I have never noticed a problem, but not sure I would recognise if the batteries were fully charged or not with just the SG. Now I have the battery monitor as well, perhaps I will see a different picture! Exactly this. It is advised to use an ammeter in conjunction with the Smartgauge for precisely this reason.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:34:27 GMT
Interesting Nick, the solar panels are a charger when the battery is gaining charge the smartgauge become inaccurate, already admitted. I don't know why you have this perverse insistence on ignoring the facts as they are repeatedly pointed out to you. The above is NOT already admitted. What is admitted, and it is written in the SmartGauge manual so it's no huge secret, is that SG can become up to 10% out during charging and will instantly re-synch when the batteries are being used. Hence the advice to use an ammeter to monitor charge current. By your own admittance you don't have one, have never used one, and the only experience you have of one is a faulty one up in Liverpool. By contrast, many thousands of them are in use daily all over the world, supplying their users with exactly what they're supposed to.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:26:04 GMT
I'm rather hoping Gibbo will return having thought about it. He didn't really put up any substantial counter argument which makes me think he needed to go away and think about it. Gibbo has other demands on his time at present, it has nothing to do with 'thinking about' anything. It's up to him to say what he's been up to if he so chooses to but I can assure you it's not that.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:19:05 GMT
AFAIK Tri-rated, being fire-retardant, meets the spec without having to search out anything esoteric. Ok but it doesn't say it has to be fire retardant. Is trirated cable necessarily oil resistant? Maybe not. I could be wrong, you know
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 15:12:34 GMT
It says the cable must be rated for 70C and oil resistant, or in a conduit or sleeving. I don't think that is the same as saying tri-rated is it? But perhaps trirated cable meets those requirements? AFAIK Tri-rated, being fire-retardant, meets the spec without having to search out anything esoteric.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 14:46:17 GMT
It can cause it to be up to 10% out when charging as already described, but as soon as the batteries are back to discharge it will re-synch and it then becomes a non-issue. I think it is one for a Amp reading device Yes, agreed, as both Nick and I said several posts back.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 14:37:04 GMT
I can go along with that. Phew, can I get on with something else now?! No we have not worked you hard enough yet and there is a Smartgauge question Smartgauge question has been answered.
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 14:29:19 GMT
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Post by tonyqj on Nov 1, 2016 14:27:32 GMT
Additionally I understand that the Solar cells while charging the batteries will lead the Smartgauge to give inaccurate reading. It can cause it to be up to 10% out when charging as already described, but as soon as the batteries are back to discharge it will re-synch and it then becomes a non-issue.
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