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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 24, 2019 16:54:45 GMT
Well I've done the first bit of gluing with the various bits of timber on the laminate floor. I decided to glue each door in 2 stages to make things easier. Stuck it together an hour or so ago, it's perfectly square, evidenced by the non glued end, which looks spot on. Seems I'm on to a winner. Just have to be careful I don't step on any of it when I'm cooking dinner
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Post by patty on Aug 24, 2019 20:18:08 GMT
PS: I only use superglue to repair things that are broken, like a plastic component or a chipped cup. I would never use it for structural joints. superglue is hopeless on non-porous surfaces such as plastics and ceramics, the only strength you're getting is surface tension, you'd be far better off with a 2 part epoxy. Superglue was designed for sticking flesh (battlefield wounds), the only things it sticks well are flesh-related porous organic materials (eg leather).
so to repair my PVC door which has plastic snapped off I'd need the 2 part epoxy?...I was thinking of having a go with super glue..Its the bit that sticks out to stop the wet coming in the bottom. I tried to see if the whole length was removable and could replace like for like but it isn't.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2019 22:05:37 GMT
superglue is hopeless on non-porous surfaces such as plastics and ceramics, the only strength you're getting is surface tension, you'd be far better off with a 2 part epoxy. Superglue was designed for sticking flesh (battlefield wounds), the only things it sticks well are flesh-related porous organic materials (eg leather).
so to repair my PVC door which has plastic snapped off I'd need the 2 part epoxy?...I was thinking of having a go with super glue..Its the bit that sticks out to stop the wet coming in the bottom. I tried to see if the whole length was removable and could replace like for like but it isn't. As stated by deadly, super-glue is mainly useful for sticking your hand to your face. It was invented by the U.S military during the Vietnam war for use in field triage. I keep some in my first-aid kit, cos ye never know. Some people say you should get the medical grade stuff, but I find that the type intended for veterinary purposes is much cheaper. Oh, and I sometimes use it on various bits of Seagull outboards as a locking compound. Yes, use the two-part epoxy resin. Get some latex gloves, its a bugger to get off your skin. So long as you get whatever it is very clean, all will be well. Best practice is to use acetone (nail polish remover) but failing that meths works well, as Mr Stabby will no-doubt attest. Also, keying the surfaces to be glued with sandpaper or similar first is an excellent prep. It will remain pliable for about 15-20 mins in warm weather so you need to have some way of keeping it still for that long. Once its stuck, its stuck for good.
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Post by patty on Aug 25, 2019 5:41:34 GMT
so to repair my PVC door which has plastic snapped off I'd need the 2 part epoxy?...I was thinking of having a go with super glue..Its the bit that sticks out to stop the wet coming in the bottom. I tried to see if the whole length was removable and could replace like for like but it isn't. Yes, use the two-part epoxy resin. Get some latex gloves, its a bugger to get off your skin. So long as you get whatever it is very clean, all will be well. Best practice is to use acetone (nail polish remover) but failing that meths works well, as Mr Stabby will no-doubt attest. Also, keying the surfaces to be glued with sandpaper or similar first is an excellent prep. It will remain pliable for about 15-20 mins in warm weather so you need to have some way of keeping it still for that long. Once its stuck, its stuck for good. Thanks..I'll wait until gets bit cooler as I don't think I can hold it in place for that long....just so long as its sorted by autumn
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Post by Gone on Aug 25, 2019 6:08:21 GMT
Yes, use the two-part epoxy resin. Get some latex gloves, its a bugger to get off your skin. So long as you get whatever it is very clean, all will be well. Best practice is to use acetone (nail polish remover) but failing that meths works well, as Mr Stabby will no-doubt attest. Also, keying the surfaces to be glued with sandpaper or similar first is an excellent prep. It will remain pliable for about 15-20 mins in warm weather so you need to have some way of keeping it still for that long. Once its stuck, its stuck for good. Thanks..I'll wait until gets bit cooler as I don't think I can hold it in place for that long....just so long as its sorted by autumn The warmer it is the faster epoxy will set. You can get 5 minute epoxy which in this heat will hold together in a few mins. Masking tape can also be used to support while setting added - www.toolstation.com/epoxy-resin-adhesive/p29905mix for about a min, then you only have another minute or so to apply and assemble your joint. Put it together after it has started to go stiff and it may not stick fully. So be quick.
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Post by patty on Aug 25, 2019 17:10:40 GMT
Thanks..I'll wait until gets bit cooler as I don't think I can hold it in place for that long....just so long as its sorted by autumn The warmer it is the faster epoxy will set. You can get 5 minute epoxy which in this heat will hold together in a few mins. Masking tape can also be used to support while setting added - www.toolstation.com/epoxy-resin-adhesive/p29905mix for about a min, then you only have another minute or so to apply and assemble your joint. Put it together after it has started to go stiff and it may not stick fully. So be quick. thank you..
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Post by deadly on Aug 25, 2019 21:28:04 GMT
I'd make 4 separate wooden corners then draw them all together around the job with a length of string and a trucker's hitch, but only because that's how I learned to make picture frames so it seems like an easy way. Wedging it in against the surrounding furnishings sounds like it may well work.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 26, 2019 7:16:33 GMT
I've now glued the other end together. Despite everything looking perfectly square the frame isn't 100% flat; when I put the frame on a flat floor one corner is lifted by about 3mm. Not a lot and maybe it shouldn't bother me but it now has a heavy weight on each end for a day or so, see if that can become 1 or 2mm.
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Post by Gone on Aug 26, 2019 7:57:43 GMT
I've now glued the other end together. Despite everything looking perfectly square the frame isn't 100% flat; when I put the frame on a flat floor one corner is lifted by about 3mm. Not a lot and maybe it shouldn't bother me but it now has a heavy weight on each end for a day or so, see if that can become 1 or 2mm. Put a couple of shims say 6mm thick at the ‘low’ points then weights at the high points to bend it a bit past flat. Then when you remove the weights it will spring back to flat.
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Post by deadly on Aug 26, 2019 8:52:34 GMT
As stated by deadly, super-glue is mainly useful for sticking your hand to your face. It was invented by the U.S military during the Vietnam war for use in field triage. I keep some in my first-aid kit, cos ye never know. Some people say you should get the medical grade stuff, but I find that the type intended for veterinary purposes is much cheaper. Oh, and I sometimes use it on various bits of Seagull outboards as a locking compound. You really should get the medical grade stuff, it's a cyanide product (ethyl cyanoacrylate) so worth the extra caution. At minimum you should be familiar with the symptoms of cyanide poisoning before you go squirting it in a wound, look out for your patient going bright red and struggling to breath. Can kill in extreme cases, it's a bit like carbon monoxide poisoning, it stops the haemoglobin in your blood from releasing its oxygen.
A relative managed to give themselves cyanide poisoning by gluing a dental crown back on. Spent a day in hospital on an oxygen mask.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Aug 26, 2019 11:02:02 GMT
I've now glued the other end together. Despite everything looking perfectly square the frame isn't 100% flat; when I put the frame on a flat floor one corner is lifted by about 3mm. Not a lot and maybe it shouldn't bother me but it now has a heavy weight on each end for a day or so, see if that can become 1 or 2mm. Put a couple of shims say 6mm thick at the ‘low’ points then weights at the high points to bend it a bit past flat. Then when you remove the weights it will spring back to flat. Nice tip thanks, I'll give that a go.
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Post by patty on Aug 26, 2019 11:57:33 GMT
I've now glued the other end together. Despite everything looking perfectly square the frame isn't 100% flat; when I put the frame on a flat floor one corner is lifted by about 3mm. Not a lot and maybe it shouldn't bother me but it now has a heavy weight on each end for a day or so, see if that can become 1 or 2mm. Put a couple of shims say 6mm thick at the ‘low’ points then weights at the high points to bend it a bit past flat. Then when you remove the weights it will spring back to flat. This forum is a wealth of info for all our D I Y have a goes....
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Post by Gone on Aug 26, 2019 13:11:40 GMT
Put a couple of shims say 6mm thick at the ‘low’ points then weights at the high points to bend it a bit past flat. Then when you remove the weights it will spring back to flat. Nice tip thanks, I'll give that a go. Just to be clear, it takes a few days.
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Post by bodger on Aug 26, 2019 13:44:07 GMT
I've now glued the other end together. Despite everything looking perfectly square the frame isn't 100% flat; when I put the frame on a flat floor one corner is lifted by about 3mm. Not a lot and maybe it shouldn't bother me but it now has a heavy weight on each end for a day or so, see if that can become 1 or 2mm. don't despair - I find it takes 2 goes to get some jobs right. I wouldn't bother with trying to flatten it - break the joints and start again, this time with a GOOD FLAT SURFACE. good luck.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2019 15:29:45 GMT
As stated by deadly, super-glue is mainly useful for sticking your hand to your face. It was invented by the U.S military during the Vietnam war for use in field triage. I keep some in my first-aid kit, cos ye never know. Some people say you should get the medical grade stuff, but I find that the type intended for veterinary purposes is much cheaper. Oh, and I sometimes use it on various bits of Seagull outboards as a locking compound. You really should get the medical grade stuff, it's a cyanide product (ethyl cyanoacrylate) so worth the extra caution. At minimum you should be familiar with the symptoms of cyanide poisoning before you go squirting it in a wound, look out for your patient going bright red and struggling to breath. Can kill in extreme cases, it's a bit like carbon monoxide poisoning, it stops the haemoglobin in your blood from releasing its oxygen.
A relative managed to give themselves cyanide poisoning by gluing a dental crown back on. Spent a day in hospital on an oxygen mask.
Its a fair point. Sounds like your relative actually swallowed the stuff though. I must say I would hesitate to use it on anyone else in this litigious culture. I used to know a chap who was really into RC aircraft, and he was forever slicing his fingers with a scalpel (or whatever it was) as he repaired his latest crash. He constantly glued himself up with no obvious bad effects. But he was also a big hashish fan so he may not have noticed...
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