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Post by Clinton Cool on Nov 26, 2020 22:24:35 GMT
Ok I refurbished the Villager. It will never be a favourite, it's too feminine for a man cave but now I've replaced the ropes and sealed the gaps around the glass its proving quite controlable and is more or less warming the whole house with the wood the previous owner left behind.
However, 3 times now the 'throat plate' has fallen down of its own accord. I've checked it all out, it sits on 2 lugs towards the top of the stove, nothing seems to be missing. When I replace it it balances fairly precariously on the lugs. Any weight on the front of the plate, it comes crashing down. I can't see any way I could get it in if I got it altered by a welder. When I Googled this make of stove the manual said it shouldn't be run without the throat plate in place. It didn't explain why. It's disconcerting when the plate comes crashing down and possibly dangerous as well.
Does anyone know what purpose a throat plate in a stove serves? Is it anything to do with safety? If not I'll probably do away with it. My old Boatman didn't have a throat plate, and survived regular abuse by way of petcoke.
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Post by JohnV on Nov 27, 2020 7:16:45 GMT
Does anyone know what purpose a throat plate in a stove serves? Is it anything to do with safety? If not I'll probably do away with it. My old Boatman didn't have a throat plate, and survived regular abuse by way of petcoke. I'm no expert on stoves and neither of my current ones have a throat plate.
Years ago I was using a small "Ideal" stove that had one, I understood it was an anti-backdraft device. (the arm that operated it had a counter weight that just kept it open, a strong gust of wind would close it but then it would pop back open.)
Do you think yours might be missing part (or all) of the counterweight on the handle ? any signs of a bit broken or missing?
That is just a possibility .... you really need an owner or an ex owner of a villager to give you the info before you alter anything though
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 27, 2020 8:04:02 GMT
I think the throat plate is about improving efficiency. Without it, you will waste more heat going up the chimney.
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Post by JohnV on Nov 27, 2020 8:19:23 GMT
I think the throat plate is about improving efficiency. Without it, you will waste more heat going up the chimney. Am I thinking about something different to a "throat plate" ? the device I was thinking of was right at the top of the stove just under the flue outlet with the lever coming out of the flue coupler
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 27, 2020 8:31:41 GMT
I think the throat plate is about improving efficiency. Without it, you will waste more heat going up the chimney. Am I thinking about something different to a "throat plate" ? the device I was thinking of was right at the top of the stove just under the flue outlet with the lever coming out of the flue coupler If you mean an adjustable butterfly valve thing then that’s a flue damper. By my reckoning a throat plate is a large plate covering most of the top of the fire area including the flue outlet (but sitting below it), with a gap at the front. It forces the flue gases to take a more convoluted route to get to the flue outlet and in the process, more heat is extracted. eg this: www.gr8fires.co.uk/villager-throat-plate-vfs017?gclid=CjwKCAiA5IL-BRAzEiwA0lcWYofAfSclXI6NH7pMr-9qkDdyRv2tHOFiPgj8B0deVCnTb2HlD99ziRoCqnEQAvD_BwE
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Post by Gone on Nov 27, 2020 8:39:06 GMT
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Post by Telemachus on Nov 27, 2020 8:42:19 GMT
Certainly on our Squirrel the plate sits on top of the side firebricks. Perhaps they are not missing but just damaged at the top, not having a good “ledge” for the plate to sit on.
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Post by Gone on Nov 27, 2020 8:43:33 GMT
Certainly on our Squirrel the plate sits on top of the side firebricks. Perhaps they are not missing but just damaged at the top, not having a good “ledge” for the plate to sit on. My hobbit is the same as well.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2020 8:44:51 GMT
I think the throat plate is about improving efficiency. Without it, you will waste more heat going up the chimney. On the Morso I think it's called the 'Baffle Plate'. When we bought a replacement Morso stove a few years ago, it came with the baffle plate but as we use a backboiler on the stove the baffle plate has to be removed (the backboiler won't fit with the baffle either). The backboiler effectively replaces the baffle as it does the job of improving efficiency instead.
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Post by peterboat on Nov 27, 2020 8:53:36 GMT
Ok I refurbished the Villager. It will never be a favourite, it's too feminine for a man cave but now I've replaced the ropes and sealed the gaps around the glass its proving quite controlable and is more or less warming the whole house with the wood the previous owner left behind. However, 3 times now the 'throat plate' has fallen down of its own accord. I've checked it all out, it sits on 2 lugs towards the top of the stove, nothing seems to be missing. When I replace it it balances fairly precariously on the lugs. Any weight on the front of the plate, it comes crashing down. I can't see any way I could get it in if I got it altered by a welder. When I Googled this make of stove the manual said it shouldn't be run without the throat plate in place. It didn't explain why. It's disconcerting when the plate comes crashing down and possibly dangerous as well. Does anyone know what purpose a throat plate in a stove serves? Is it anything to do with safety? If not I'll probably do away with it. My old Boatman didn't have a throat plate, and survived regular abuse by way of petcoke. The new Boatman stoves have a baffle plate the addition of which makes them more efficient, along with a top air feed they gain 10% according to Eddie the guy who makes them, so I would say the baffle plate is needed
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Post by lollygagger on Nov 27, 2020 14:49:38 GMT
All stoves have them. Mine sits on two prongs at the sides and the brick at the rear.
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Post by JohnV on Nov 27, 2020 14:54:39 GMT
All stoves have them. Mine sits on two prongs at the sides and the brick at the rear. maybe "most" but certainly not "all"
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2020 15:10:11 GMT
I had terrible trouble with a fixed baffle plate on a villager stove where the shit from the flue dropped down, built up and eventually blocked the flue. CO alarm was like "beeepity beeepity beep".
I took the plate out as not ready to die of CO poisoning just yet.
Pleased to notice that the custom made fire on Dulcinea doesn't have any of that sort of nonsense. Ted definitely knew his stuff.
The opportunity for exiting via the Carbon Monoxide gate still exists because being a sea going boat there is no ventilation the boat can be completely sealed up.
Which is nice. A chosen route rather than a badly designed fire.
I do keep the windows open.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2020 15:14:20 GMT
I had terrible trouble with a fixed baffle plate on a villager stove where the shit from the flue dropped down, built up and eventually blocked the flue. CO alarm was like "beeepity beeepity beep". Did you not consider the chimney might need sweeping or a cowl fitting...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2020 15:16:06 GMT
Sweeping the flue out would still have piled all the shit on top of the baffle plate. Unless you do it when the fire is roaring it tends to drop downwards. ETA this was on a boat with a 4.5 inch flue pipe not a domestic setup. And it had a top exiting flue whereas I think the Clinton Cool one has a back exit flue. Flues exiting out of the back of a stove are another obvious danger point but usually I believe they have access panels for cleaning.
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