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Post by TonyDunkley on Dec 31, 2017 9:57:38 GMT
I've searched over there, but despite trawling though 6 pages of listings, can't find a suitable topic... perhaps I should BRACE myself for attack and start a new one of my own ;-) Don't bother doing that, the usual collection of self-appointed experts will just launch off into spouting another load of bollocks based on more bollocks they've read elsewhere written by another bunch of equally stupid navel-contemplaters. In the real world it's actually quite a staightforward matter to decide on what spec. of oil you should be using. There is no equivalent to API-CC spec. oil, and there's no reason to use the stuff anymore because oils to later, better performing spec.s are available and whatever make or model of engine you've got, it will be fine being run on them. In fact it will be better off with the later spec. oils because they contain more, and better, additives for keeping rings, pistons and combustion chambers cleaner.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2017 9:57:56 GMT
The CC part of the spec is more important than the 10w40. The CC is an old spec but its more suitable for slow running boat engines than the latest spec as IIRC its a lower detergent oil than the newer spec which is why even new engined specify it. If it was me I would go for 20/50 with the CC spec such as the classic car oil available from wilko. As you say, the CC bit is the spec of the oil and the weight is the temperature range an oil can operate in. For the uk Ford specified a 15/40 CF oil for the old 2.5 DI transit, in the winter it was recommended to change to a 5/40 CF to aid cold starting. I changed mine to 5/40 only once during the cold winter of 08/09
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2017 10:03:45 GMT
I've searched over there, but despite trawling though 6 pages of listings, can't find a suitable topic... perhaps I should BRACE myself for attack and start a new one of my own ;-) Don't bother doing that, the usual collection of self-appointed experts will just launch off into spouting another load of bollocks based on more bollocks they've read elsewhere written by another bunch of equally stupid navel-contemplaters. In the real world it's actually quite a staightforward matter to decide on what spec. of oil you should be using. There is no equivalent to API-CC spec. oil, and there's no reason to use the stuff anymore because oils to later, better performing spec.s are available and whatever make or model of engine you've got, it will be fine being run on them. In fact it will be better off with the later spec. oils because they contain more, and better, additives for keeping rings, pistons and combustion chambers cleaner. Canaline do it to cover their arse with bore glazing due to low load low RPM operation - particularly if charging while moored. It's bollox as you and I know, and were it me I'd use a 15/40 CF oil (of which the best part of a gallon has just gone into dad's 4108) the same stuff our 3-6 cylinder electropak Perkins run on for hours on end with no issue. But seeing as quaysider wants exactly the spec that canaline specify I doubt he'd be comfortable doing what the rest of us who operate, maintain and repair diesel engines of all flavours do. I use 20/50 in the BMC as it definitely helps on the oil pressure front at idle when hot.
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Post by TonyDunkley on Dec 31, 2017 10:18:22 GMT
There are some things not adding up to make any sense in this thread. In post #1, Quaysider, is saying that his drum of Morris's engine oil has run out, but he doesn't say what spec. it is, only that it was 'golden film'. Later on Nick is saying, correctly, that API-CC is an obsolete spec., so I'm assuming now that this Morris's 'golden film' name is something they only use for oils they produce to the old API-CC spec., . . . it's got to be round about 30 years since it began to be superseded, at a guess, but API-CC was for normally aspirated diesels, and API-CD for turbocharged diesel engines. Where things really start making no sense is when 'Quaysider' says there's still 18 months of Warranty left on his engine, . . . if that's so, then the next question is why are you going out of your way to buy and use such an old, out of date spec. of oil in what has to be an almost new engine ? Cause that's what it says in the book. In that case the book isn't telling you the whole story, . . it should be saying API-CC or a later, higher spec. of oil, . . . generally referred to as 'back compatible', . . such as API-CE, CF, CF-2, CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4, CJ-4 and CK-4. In fact anything except the very latest API-FA-4, which is not suitable for use as a substitute for earlier spec.s.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 31, 2017 10:36:48 GMT
I thought there was something in older spec oils that prevented solid lifter cam wear but perhaps it only really matters with silly high lift cams on dragster engines?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2017 10:42:52 GMT
I thought there was something in older spec oils that prevented solid lifter cam wear but perhaps it only really matters with silly high lift cams on dragster engines? THere's next to bugger all special in old spec oils! Brown and slippery as my Dad is often heard to say.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 31, 2017 11:05:05 GMT
I thought there was something in older spec oils that prevented solid lifter cam wear but perhaps it only really matters with silly high lift cams on dragster engines? THere's next to bugger all special in old spec oils! Brown and slippery as my Dad is often heard to say. Or my favourite - any oil is better than no oil. A mate ran a punto on hydraulic oil when that was all he had. It seemed just fine. But there is an additive in older oils. I'll do some digging...probably not pertinent to fat burners.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 31, 2017 11:20:45 GMT
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Post by deadly on Dec 31, 2017 11:21:52 GMT
Have you tried ASK at Kippax? Almost walking distance from Castleford visitor moorings in a push (altho I wouldn't want to walk it with 20 litres of oil even if it is down hill all the way back), and the cheapest and best stocked motorists store for 50 miles around. I'd be surprised if they don't have something 15w40 to API CC, I wouldn't be surprised if they had a choice!
note I have no connection to ASK other than as a happy customer of about 10 years or so. Prices so good it's worth the drive from Wakefield.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2017 11:38:21 GMT
God love the yanks! Interesting article though. Oil is indeed cheaper than engine bits, and some applications (such as yours) will need specialist oils to keep the up and down and round and round bits from becoming stationary broken ornaments. Quaysiders canaline 42 a bit less so
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2017 11:43:08 GMT
What is interesting is that older oils, just like paint and varnish are having the useful stuff taken out to appease the eco nutters. Resulting in an inferior product to the one they replace.
A bit of zinc and phosphate in oil has to be more environmentally friendly than producing new camshafts and lifters every time a rednecks hotrod shits itself. Lowering the limit so as to make the rednecks need for a never ending supply of lunpy cams seems a very backward step.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 31, 2017 12:31:17 GMT
What is interesting is that older oils, just like paint and varnish are having the useful stuff taken out to appease the eco nutters. Resulting in an inferior product to the one they replace. A bit of zinc and phosphate in oil has to be more environmentally friendly than producing new camshafts and lifters every time a rednecks hotrod shits itself. Lowering the limit so as to make the rednecks need for a never ending supply of lunpy cams seems a very backward step. You're no fun. For the record I have a stock pre loved cam and refaced followers, I'm not keen on aftermarket poorly balanced cranks and HP seeking cams, but for oil, what's good for the goose...
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Post by JohnV on Dec 31, 2017 13:16:27 GMT
Welcome aboard the Thunderboat deadly
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Post by Telemachus on Jan 1, 2018 1:31:12 GMT
Cause that's what it says in the book. In that case the book isn't telling you the whole story, . . it should be saying API-CC or a later, higher spec. of oil, . . . generally referred to as 'back compatible', . . such as API-CE, CF, CF-2, CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, CI-4, CJ-4 and CK-4. In fact anything except the very latest API-FA-4, which is not suitable for use as a substitute for earlier spec.s. Not necessarily. The later oils are fine if you are running the engine reasonably hard, but if you are running a 40+bhp engine at say 5bhp to trundle a leisure narrowboat along a typical shallow canal, the new oils are “too good” and can, allegedly, result in bore glazing. Aviation piston engines (which routinely run flat out for takeoff) these days are run on multigrade oils by anyone who values long engine life. But even so, if you have a brand new one or have to fit a new cylinder, you have to run for the first 50 hrs on old fashioned straight mineral oil. Otherwise it won’t bed in and you will have low compression and high oil consumption.
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Post by Gone on Jan 1, 2018 9:41:06 GMT
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