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Post by TonyDunkley on Apr 23, 2019 20:27:31 GMT
Going by the frequency and number of 'cillings', and sometimes sinkings, occurring on the canals, observations of pleasure craft working downhill locks, and from posts in other threads on TB and elsewhere it seems to me that almost without exception pleasure boaters have adopted an ill-advised and potentially very risky approach to downhill lock working.
Working, or cargo carrying, canal boats of all types invariably worked downhill locks with the boat's stem/stem fender right up against the bottom gates, and almost invariably with a light line of some sort led up onto the lockside or gates to keep it there and to prevent the boats from drifting back over the cill as the water drained out of the lock chamber.
It appears that this well proven and long established practice has been completely abandoned by the pleasure boating fraternity, a large number of whom seem to regard hanging up the sterns of their boats on lock cills as an unavoidable occupational hazard which goes hand in hand with latter day canal boating.
How do you control the positioning of your boat in downhill locks - and why do you choose to do it that way ?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2019 20:45:03 GMT
When Jane's on board, she prefers to use the engine in forward or reverse to have either the bow or stern fender secure against the relevant lock gate. We call it 'riding the button'.
If I'm on board, I use the engine, forward or reverse as necessary to hold steady clear of gates, cill or anything else.
Rog
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2019 20:49:59 GMT
Going by the frequency and number of 'cillings', and sometimes sinkings, occurring on the canals, observations of pleasure craft working downhill locks, and from posts in other threads on TB and elsewhere it seems to me that almost without exception pleasure boaters have adopted an ill-advised and potentially very risky approach to downhill lock working. Working, or cargo carrying, canal boats of all types invariably worked downhill locks with the boat's stem/stem fender right up against the bottom gates, and almost invariably with a light line of some sort led ashore to keep it there and to prevent the boats from drifting back over the cill as the water drained out of the lock chamber. It appears that this well proven and long established practice has been completely abandoned by the pleasure boating fraternity, a large number of whom seem to regard hanging up the sterns of their boats on lock cills as an unavoidable occupational hazard which goes hand in hand with latter day canal boating. How do you control the positioning of your boat in downhill locks - and why do you choose to do it that way ? Which of course works if there is nowt to snag the stem fender as the boat descends. We just used to keep the boat as clear as we could from either end gates/the cill. We generally concerned ourselves with keeping it clearer from the cill than the bottom gates. Sometimes challenging dependent on lock length in a 60 foot boat in shortish locks. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2019 20:56:56 GMT
When Jane's on board, she prefers to use the engine in forward or reverse to have either the bow or stern fender secure against the relevant lick gate. We call it 'riding the button'. If I'm on board, I use the engine, forward or reverse as necessary to hold steady clear of gates, cill or anything else. Rog The only time our boat nearly came to grief was when it got caught on a protusion from the side. It was a big lock, jan thought she was ok tucking the boat in to the side well clear from both ends. I can confirm the emergency stop button on the big locks on the AandC do actually work. Or rather they did back then. |
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Post by Mr Stabby on Apr 23, 2019 20:57:44 GMT
I just position mine in the middle of the lock and take a couple of turns around a bollard with the centre line. I only normally open one paddle unless there's a boat following me and if it takes longer for the lock to empty then so be it- I'm not a working boater in the 1820s and I'm never in any rush to get anywhere.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2019 21:01:59 GMT
The interesting thing in my view, from Tony's description, is that I've NEVER seen a boat work a lock in exactly the way he described.
I have no doubt it was the way in the past, but certainly amongst leisure boaters I've never seen it used.
Rog
ETA Just a thought, but the shorter length of none working boats (57ft to 62ft frequently) leaves much more room in the lock.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2019 21:08:12 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2019 21:20:09 GMT
Going down the bow will be against the bottom gate. No fender so no snagging. As the levels equalise the boat moves back a bit naturally allowing gate(s) to be opened.
I do take a 3/8 line with me to the lockside as one of my pleasures is to bowhaul the boat out of the lock if practical to do so and this line can be used to keep boat at front of lock as well.
Have not done much narrow boating recently but I use the same technique for my 40 x 9ft canal boat as well. In wide locks obviously.
I definitely dislike the boat having the remotest chance of going over the cill.
The way I look at it as a single hander is the boat should be safe even when I am abducted by aliens. It works.
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Post by Telemachus on Apr 23, 2019 23:10:42 GMT
Going by the frequency and number of 'cillings', and sometimes sinkings, occurring on the canals, observations of pleasure craft working downhill locks, and from posts in other threads on TB and elsewhere it seems to me that almost without exception pleasure boaters have adopted an ill-advised and potentially very risky approach to downhill lock working. Working, or cargo carrying, canal boats of all types invariably worked downhill locks with the boat's stem/stem fender right up against the bottom gates, and almost invariably with a light line of some sort led up onto the lockside or gates to keep it there and to prevent the boats from drifting back over the cill as the water drained out of the lock chamber. It appears that this well proven and long established practice has been completely abandoned by the pleasure boating fraternity, a large number of whom seem to regard hanging up the sterns of their boats on lock cills as an unavoidable occupational hazard which goes hand in hand with latter day canal boating. How do you control the positioning of your boat in downhill locks - and why do you choose to do it that way ? It all depends on the boat length and crew number. Obviously if you have a full length working boat there isn’t much spare room and it’s necessary to keep the boat on the bottom gate, as to drift back a few feet would be disastrous. On the other hand, your average 57’ modern narrowboat has 15 or so feet to spare and so no need to wear the front fender away. Normally our boat has 2 crew so one is on the back and one working the locks. Normally little if any engine thrust is required as the boat if anything tends to drift forward when emptying the lock. I wouldn’t leave it in fwd because with a 48bhp engine even idle represents quite a lot of thrust. No point in burning more fuel and pressing the fender hard against the bottom gate (probably causing it to lift up). When I single hand I position the boat near the bottom gate and wind the bottom paddles. I can’t recall it ever trying to drift backwards during emptying but if it did, I have a line ashore to check it. Some locks (eg Wolverhampton 21) the boat /lock is “clever” and boat will always start to drift back just as the lock finishes emptying - so that the gates can be opened. In those locks I’ll have taken a few turns around a bollard since it can be a race to get back on the boat and in reach of the engine controls having opened the gates, before it collided with the top cill. We used to have fairly short fenders and the rudder would be the first thing to hit. Now we have longer fenders and so less likely to hit rudder / swan neck but often there is water leaking over the cill and don’t want that on the back deck. Line tied in the right place pulls tight after the boat has moved back enough to open the gates, so once the gates are open it springs forward again and slowly starts to exit whilst I’m getting back on the boat. Thinking about it, on W21 etc Jeff often goes ahead if locks against us, immediately after I’ve closed the top gate and he’s opened the bottom paddles, so I remain off the boat and continue as per single handing. I think what I’m trying to say is there is not one formulaic way of doing it, it depends on the locks, the boat, and the number of crew. But for us with a big engine, leaving it in fwd against the bottom gate is never the way. Deffo not when single handing as you’d have to get back on the boat to put into neutral once lock empty, get off again to open the gates, get on again to drive out. Re-Reading the OP I realise that the suggestion is not to leave it in gear as you might do going uphill, but anyway my response covered why we both think this would be a bad idea. |
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Post by JohnV on Apr 24, 2019 6:23:58 GMT
When doing the locks on the main part of the system I'm usually singlehanding on Shapfell and being only 25'6"
I normally have the centre line ashore with me but with her tied to a downhill end bollard while somewhere near the centre of the lock.
I can then just let her do her own thing.
As the water level drops she naturally is pulled further towards the down hill gates and is never in danger of cilling.
I have been trying to remember (in fairness it was a hell of a long time ago) what technique I used with the Mary Jo (72' ex BCN Joey) and I think it was pretty much as Tony describes ..... because of her size (she was also 7'2" beam) you were always very conscious of how tight the locks were.
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Post by naughtyfox on Apr 24, 2019 6:56:12 GMT
I did two locks down on Saturday on my own. Just hold centre string (ha! narrowboating term!) in my hand and keep our 40-foot boat in the middle. One paddle for starters, and then the other one when I get round to it, and if I want. Keeping an eye on everything all the time, finally pulling the boat's back end to the ladder so's I can get back on, without having to rub my bum against the green, slimy, wet lock wall.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Apr 24, 2019 7:21:46 GMT
I go into the lock slowly and allow the boat to drift up against the bottom gates while I close the top gates. Open one paddle slowly until the boat's fender is up against the bottom gate then open the paddle fully. I sometimes then open the other paddle, sometimes not, depends on my mood. An easy process. The only hassle is that I sometimes need to haul the boat back when the lock is empty to position the boat correctly in relation to the ladder. Half my roof is covered with solar panels, I'd rather use the ladder to access the rood rather than the deck, less slimy rungs to clamber down.
Going uphill is a whole load more hassle.
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Post by Jim on Apr 24, 2019 7:59:38 GMT
Got a 30 odd foot boat, use centre line with enough slack for the descent, tied on a bollard. Round here, its a narrow boat on a broad lock, they've built the gates with the bolt heads pointing inwards, just to catch unwary boaters, so I wouldn't leave it rubbing against the bottom gate. I'm often single handing, I open one paddle and if I'm in the mood, trot across the top of the gate to open the other side, or use the bridge if there is one near the tail gates.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2019 8:00:21 GMT
What would be good in flights where the next lock is nearby would be to have some sort of catapult to fire the boat out of the lock and give it momentum to get to the next one.
That way it would be straightforward to operate flights with no engine and minimal bow hauling.
I like bow hauling and strapping but the bit between locks needs some sort of motive power.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2019 8:27:04 GMT
Like it  Must admit I'm not a fan of the volunteers in general but places like Camden with too many gongoozlers I don't mind someone else doing the lock even if they are often very ponderous which winds me up a little. |
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