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Post by brummieboy on Sept 12, 2020 15:12:38 GMT
I think there are some large headed nails which would do for the rivets but not sure what they are called. Clout nails? Usually used for roofing felt. Or if you want a dome, upholstery tacks. Aluminium strip for the edge is soft and malleable. If you are using key clamps etc for the frame, then you could use wooden battens underneath and not only would they reinforce the planks after glueing, they would act as locators.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 14, 2020 12:01:24 GMT
Latest idea is to have a shelf underneath the smaller coffee table. An ideal way would be to suspend it off paired up long brackets but these things are hellish expensive, it's not going to happen. The other idea is to use 28mm tube (frame is 34mm tube) and wall fittings to suspend a single length of scaffold plank under the main 2 plank top. What do you reckon, any other ideas?
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Post by cygnus on Sept 14, 2020 12:31:16 GMT
Coach Bolts make excellent fake rivets.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2020 13:20:27 GMT
Latest idea is to have a shelf underneath the smaller coffee table. An ideal way would be to suspend it off paired up long brackets but these things are hellish expensive, it's not going to happen. The other idea is to use 28mm tube (frame is 34mm tube) and wall fittings to suspend a single length of scaffold plank under the main 2 plank top. What do you reckon, any other ideas? Given the small size of the dwelling I would be tempted to make a ceiling suspended table which could be winched up above head height as and when. This depends on internal headroom of the room but a suspended table with a central floor anchor with some sort of tensioning device is something I always liked the idea of. Having only ever had boats with about 6 or 7ft headroom my dreams of this sort of table have been dashed.
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Post by patty on Sept 14, 2020 15:00:03 GMT
Latest idea is to have a shelf underneath the smaller coffee table. An ideal way would be to suspend it off paired up long brackets but these things are hellish expensive, it's not going to happen. The other idea is to use 28mm tube (frame is 34mm tube) and wall fittings to suspend a single length of scaffold plank under the main 2 plank top. What do you reckon, any other ideas? Given the small size of the dwelling I would be tempted to make a ceiling suspended table which could be winched up above head height as and when. This depends on internal headroom of the room but a suspended table Bit like Mary Poppins....
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2020 15:52:16 GMT
Latest idea is to have a shelf underneath the smaller coffee table. An ideal way would be to suspend it off paired up long brackets but these things are hellish expensive, it's not going to happen. The other idea is to use 28mm tube (frame is 34mm tube) and wall fittings to suspend a single length of scaffold plank under the main 2 plank top. What do you reckon, any other ideas? Definitely knicker elastic. Everyone knows that.
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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 14, 2020 16:47:49 GMT
Latest idea is to have a shelf underneath the smaller coffee table. An ideal way would be to suspend it off paired up long brackets but these things are hellish expensive, it's not going to happen. The other idea is to use 28mm tube (frame is 34mm tube) and wall fittings to suspend a single length of scaffold plank under the main 2 plank top. What do you reckon, any other ideas? Definitely knicker elastic. Everyone knows that. Yes. However, the theme is industrial, rather than fishing.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2020 16:57:10 GMT
Definitely knicker elastic. Everyone knows that. Yes. However, the theme is industrial, rather than fishing. Don't knock it till you've tried it. Here's one I knocked up earlier:
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Post by Clinton Cool on Sept 14, 2020 18:51:39 GMT
Now you've got me thinking: I could get an old bike wheel, cut it in half, remove/ shorten selected spokes and create my very own suspension bridge, under a coffee table. This one may have mileage.
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Post by patty on Sept 14, 2020 19:15:34 GMT
Now you've got me thinking: I could get an old bike wheel, cut it in half, remove/ shorten selected spokes and create my very own suspension bridge, under a coffee table. This one may have mileage. That sounds an idea to have a go at...
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Post by paulhd on Sept 14, 2020 21:08:41 GMT
How about this for the bathroom.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2020 21:30:24 GMT
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Post by JohnV on Sept 15, 2020 5:48:58 GMT
I've never done any doweling but just off the top of my head I would have thought if you drilled very shallow holes in one of the boards, stand it face up, put ball bearings in the shallow holes then put the other board on top of it and whack it with a lump hammer... The ball bearings would dent the top piece of wood so you get lined up holes. No idea if it would work but sounds easier than doing all the set square stuff. You can get smashing little dowel diameter metal plugs with a slightly larger rim at one end and a point in the middle.
Drill your dowel holes wherever you see fit in one plank then pop in the little thingies.
Place on a flat surface with a block at one side and at one end.
Place the next plank alongside, line them up then hit the edge wiv an 'ammer ....... lining up problem sorted
Drill the holes in the second plank where the points have marked it.
After completing this stage slop loadsa glue in the holes, pop a dowel into each hole (on one plank only, this is very important)
Now hit the edge wiv an 'ammer (try to not hit it in the same places as last time, as that way the dents won't be too deep to sand out)
At this stage you often come across problem number two
If you have put too much glue in the dowel holes, then like all liquids, it won't compress. In pracice this means that the dowels "bounce" and the planks keep moving apart again however hard you hit them.
This is easily solved by taking it all apart again and cleaning out the excess glue with those handy little cotton buds on sticks.
Re-line up the recalcitrant planks and hammer them together,
At this stage problem three often rears it's ugly head.
If when you drilled the holes (stage two) you didn't get them in line with the surface of the plank and not perpendicular to the mating surface (Drilled them on the huh) then however hard you hit the edge they will jam a fraction of an inch apart.
There are two possible means ofr correcting this problem.
One is a heck of a lot of filler and two is a bonfire
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2020 9:37:36 GMT
I've never done any doweling but just off the top of my head I would have thought if you drilled very shallow holes in one of the boards, stand it face up, put ball bearings in the shallow holes then put the other board on top of it and whack it with a lump hammer... The ball bearings would dent the top piece of wood so you get lined up holes. No idea if it would work but sounds easier than doing all the set square stuff. You can get smashing little dowel diameter metal plugs with a slightly larger rim at one end and a point in the middle.
Drill your dowel holes wherever you see fit in one plank then pop in the little thingies.
Place on a flat surface with a block at one side and at one end.
Place the next plank alongside, line them up then hit the edge wiv an 'ammer ....... lining up problem sorted
Drill the holes in the second plank where the points have marked it.
After completing this stage slop loadsa glue in the holes, pop a dowel into each hole (on one plank only, this is very important)
Now hit the edge wiv an 'ammer (try to not hit it in the same places as last time, as that way the dents won't be too deep to sand out)
At this stage you often come across problem number two
If you have put too much glue in the dowel holes, then like all liquids, it won't compress. In pracice this means that the dowels "bounce" and the planks keep moving apart again however hard you hit them.
This is easily solved by taking it all apart again and cleaning out the excess glue with those handy little cotton buds on sticks.
Re-line up the recalcitrant planks and hammer them together,
At this stage problem three often rears it's ugly head.
If when you drilled the holes (stage two) you didn't get them in line with the surface of the plank and not perpendicular to the mating surface (Drilled them on the huh) then however hard you hit the edge they will jam a fraction of an inch apart.
There are two possible means ofr correcting this problem.
One is a heck of a lot of filler and two is a bonfire
There' no real substitute for doing things the hard way. Incidentally purpose made dowels come with channels to allow the excess glue to escape (but you could just use less glue). The techniques I alluded to are literally thousands of years old (but don't let that get in the way). Your post all made sense at the end.
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Post by brummieboy on Sept 15, 2020 10:06:51 GMT
I thought Clinton Cool was looking for an industrial type arrangement not fine carpentry. I'd go over the whole top after construction with a flap disc on an angle grinder to take out any high points. It would be quite easy to make up a little guide for the top plank by screwing lengths of batten to each side and end of the other piece. Old screw holes and nails are essential for authentic industrial tables. A couple of burn marks here and there. Don't forget to drill a flat hole and glue a coin in with the year the table was constructed. That's always sensible for anyone wondering about the provenance of such a class item in future. Please make it. I'd love to watch. BTW, Fred Dibnah once stopped his house collapsing by drilling several holes all the way through the building and installing the biggest set of bolts you ever saw. Top work. It was amazing that he got the bolt holes to line up properly, but I expect he took the time to mark it out first. In a previous existence, working for a division of G.K.N. that specialised in corrosion resistant fasteners, I was involved in the administration of orders for the restoration of York Minster. Now there were the biggest set of stainless steel bolts you ever did see.
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