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Post by lollygagger on Dec 5, 2016 15:35:02 GMT
Having looked at the gi link, without getting up, it's very like that and I seem to recall checking it with my multimeter set on diode as recommended. It must have passed the test or I'd have tackled it.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 16:02:11 GMT
There was a chap on the other site recently that has had extensive problems with hull corrosion even though a GI was fitted. Yeah I read about this but the make and model was never given. I doubt it was one with an LED status monitor, which is what I would recommend, as they also have a higher blocking voltage. Even so it could have been due to faulty wiring on a nearby boat, but an LED status monitor would likely have picked this up. If people want to fit an IT instead of a GI that's fine by me... Problem is with GIs is that you do need to choose a decent one and fit it correctly which doesn't always happen evidently. Should that be a basis for making a blanket recommendation to fit an isolation transformer? I don't recall if it had LED's. it certainly sounds like some kind of fault indicator is required though. One that would advise if a fault has occured, not just one that advises a fault in progress. Do you have a recommendation for a decent one? or perhaps the answer is to use Two, like my underpants,one on top of the other in case one fails.
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Post by smileypete on Dec 5, 2016 16:10:12 GMT
I don't recall if it had LED's. it certainly sounds like some kind of fault indicator is required though. One that would advise if a fault has occured, not just one that advises a fault in progress. Do you have a recommendation for a decent one? or perhaps the answer is to use Two, like my underpants,one on top of the other in case one fails. Well for people who have money to burn and aren't into the technical side of things, the best option may well be an IT, say £300 for a 3kVA one plus £50 to £150 for professional fitting. OTOH for people on a budget who have some interest the technical side of things, a GI with remote LED status monitor like the Safeshore marine ones for £100. Needs to be fitted correctly and tested, but a reasonably competent DIYer should be quite able to do this. (though not all boatyards can!) I hope the above keeps everybody happy.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 16:14:27 GMT
I don't recall if it had LED's. it certainly sounds like some kind of fault indicator is required though. One that would advise if a fault has occured, not just one that advises a fault in progress. Do you have a recommendation for a decent one? or perhaps the answer is to use Two, like my underpants,one on top of the other in case one fails. Well for people who have money to burn and aren't into the technical side of things, the best option may well be an IT, say £300 for a 3kVA one plus £50 to £150 for professional fitting. OTOH for people on a budget who have some interest the technical side of things, a GI with remote LED status monitor like the Safeshore marine ones for £100. Needs to be fitted correctly and tested, but a reasonably competent DIYer should be quite able to do this. I hope the above keeps everybody happy. Thanks Pirate Pete. I've always liked the look of the airlink ones, but then I am a bit of a sad git! www.airlinktransformers.com/boating_transformers/BT3231/
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 16:20:30 GMT
I hate GIs and ITs.
Just leave the boat to rust and get a bloke to weld some new steel over it if its needed.
I also hate insurance.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 16:24:18 GMT
I hate GIs and ITs. Just leave the boat to rust and get a bloke to weld some new steel over it if its needed. I also hate insurance. Not sure either prevent rust, but who knows? If they ever are proved to prevent rust I will request a refund on all the bitumen I have shelled out for over the years.
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Post by smileypete on Dec 5, 2016 16:24:45 GMT
You could even make a combined isolation transformer and low frequency pure sine inverter, as both contain transformers.... that would be cool. A good torodial transformer would give pretty decent standby current, probably not much more than an amp.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 16:25:15 GMT
Fair point. OK just leave the boat to disintegrate is what I should have said.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 16:30:52 GMT
You could even make a combined isolation transformer and low frequency pure sine inverter, as both contain transformers.... that would be cool. A good torodial transformer would give pretty decent standby current, probably not much more than an amp. Woosh, what was that, flew right over my head. When you say you, you actually mean I ,not you,as I wouldn't have a clue, but you sound as if you do.
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 5, 2016 17:04:10 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 17:08:23 GMT
I think, unless you are confident that it has been correctly installed you won't be confident that it is protecting your hull. Depends how confident you are at installing and testing such things! To clarify, the key word here is confident. Or perhaps it should be competent?
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Post by lollygagger on Dec 5, 2016 17:14:18 GMT
Confident enough for that, it just sits in the hookup (inside the boat). I would keep the GI for DC, but does it help with stray current from a neighbour? Can anything help with that?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2016 17:36:56 GMT
I think this is a very pertinent (whatever that means) point. Without wishing sound like a patronising tosser.
Is it actually possible to prevent damage which may be caused by -other peoples' boats- by -their- misuse of -electrical systems- possibly caused by their innocent ignorance.
I hate the idea of my boat being damaged by -other people-
I also hate overuse of the -
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