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Post by JohnV on May 11, 2017 10:51:52 GMT
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Post by tonyb on May 11, 2017 15:18:14 GMT
I am loath to point this out in view of the shower pump switch thread in the other place.
The technical specs make no mention of DC operation so it would not be best practice to use one. The ones I used had a magnet to draw the DC arc away from the contacts. However sometimes the magnet fell out and they did not seem to suffer.
Anyway they are double pole switches (or used to be) so you either use connect pole and keep the other as a spare or connect to both poles so they each carry a proportion of the current.
I suspect they will be fine but can not give the OK to use one, but I would if I could nt find a DC one at a reasonable price.
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Post by JohnV on May 11, 2017 16:18:25 GMT
I suspect they will be fine but can not give the OK to use one, but I would if I could nt find a DC one at a reasonable price. Whenever I have had to use an ac switch on dc circuits and have been worried about it's possible long term reliability I have used an automotive type 12v relay to carry the high current and simply used the ac switch as the control. Automotive relays being as cheap as they are it always seemed sensible. (My Parmax waterpump used to operate this way when I had one of the versions with the ac microswitch although being 24v it's less of a problem than on 12v)
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Post by tonyb on May 11, 2017 17:57:02 GMT
That is the best way to do it if you are going to use an AC switch but then that's another complication and another set of potential failure points. It comes down to which is likely to be the more unreliable and I suspect in the case of these pressure switches there will not be much in it. I suspect on my boat I would go for "less complication".
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Post by lollygagger on May 11, 2017 18:31:46 GMT
In any case, I don't think you should be losing much from the valve unless it has developed a leak.
Unknown to me, my hot water pressure release valve was teed into my shower drain, but upstream of the gulper pump. When it developed a slight leak, the shower tray would slowly start to fill, but only when I was on the boat. That caused a lot of head scratching until I finally worked out what was going on!
Thanks for this post bills, it steered me to the real problem (the pump) which is now sorted.
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Post by lollygagger on May 15, 2017 14:18:22 GMT
...Or not. I left my gauge attached somewhere with a non return valve on the cold to record the max pressure the pump had pumped should anything go wrong.
There's an inch of water in my overflow bucket so I checked the gauge - 2.3bar where it been set at 1.75 and double treble checked. I'll turn it down and monitor. I feel one of those Square D regulators will be on it's way before too long, the one in the pump is skanky even with the bigger hole feeding it.
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