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Post by JohnV on Feb 28, 2019 23:38:43 GMT
I'm trying to fit a switch to turn on/off my 4g modem/router and have been struggling to find a wall switch that is specifically for 12v. Midland Chandlers has this www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/product/vs-215.aspx which suggests it works with 240v as well. I've just picked up a 240v 20a switch from screwfix and wondering if there's any reason why it wouldn't work with my router? The router requires 12v, 1a supply. Any thoughts? Cheers! Sorry if this is a daft question but hasn’t the router got it’s own on/off switch? Why do you need a separate switch? I also wondered ...... but it occured to me that he could be using the same supply for the outside (powered) aerial he is installing
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2019 23:38:54 GMT
My curiosity got the better of me.
Positive from the boat into Live in. Negative from the boat into Neutral in.
Live out from the switch into Positive in on the router Neutral out from the switch into Negative in on the router.
Flicked on the switch. All the lights went out. Flicked off the switch. All the lights came back on.
Weird. Note that this cable is routed into the lighting circuit. Not sure what would have caused that. Without the switch, it's been working hunky dory.
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Post by Telemachus on Feb 28, 2019 23:40:35 GMT
I would suggest that a 20A switch has quite big screw connections. Have you ever poked a small wire designed for 1A, into a large screw connection designed for 20A, tightened it up and then found that the screw has entirely missed the wire, which can then easily be pulled out? In which case, sharing one connection with 2 wires (thus making it fatter) might be a better idea. Although admittedly the problem might recur on the positive side! Anyway, we don’t know where the connection between the router’s cable and the switch will be. Will the router be connected directly to the switch, or will it be more remote with additional wire? Who knows. But anyway the important point is that there is nothing electrically beneficial in using both poles, and some minor disadvantage. It may or may not be physically convenient to use the second pole as a physical connector. we could continue this almost ad infinitum but it would end up looking like a CWDF technical thread (thinks ...... shall I mention bootlace ferrules and the latest regs ) Bootlace ferrules are obviously a good idea, but only if you have them! What latest regs?
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Post by Andyberg on Feb 28, 2019 23:41:24 GMT
but it would end up looking like a CWDF technical thread I think this thread is just about to achieve this John! 😂😂😂
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Post by JohnV on Feb 28, 2019 23:41:36 GMT
My curiosity got the better of me. Positive from the boat into Live in. Negative from the boat into Neutral in. Live out from the switch into Positive in on the router Neutral out from the switch into Negative in on the router. Flicked on the switch. All the lights went out. Flicked off the switch. All the lights came back on. Weird. Note that this cable is routed into the lighting circuit. Not sure what would have caused that. Without the switch, it's been working hunky dory. Now that is confusing ..... I think that might need Nick and I both to work out that one ..... I will have to have a think about that
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 28, 2019 23:42:35 GMT
My curiosity got the better of me. Positive from the boat into Live in. Negative from the boat into Neutral in. Live out from the switch into Positive in on the router Neutral out from the switch into Negative in on the router. Flicked on the switch. All the lights went out. Flicked off the switch. All the lights came back on. Weird. Note that this cable is routed into the lighting circuit. Not sure what would have caused that. Without the switch, it's been working hunky dory. Where, and how, have you tapped into the lighting circuit ?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2019 23:42:36 GMT
My curiosity got the better of me. Positive from the boat into Live in. Negative from the boat into Neutral in. Live out from the switch into Positive in on the router Neutral out from the switch into Negative in on the router. Flicked on the switch. All the lights went out. Flicked off the switch. All the lights came back on. Weird. Note that this cable is routed into the lighting circuit. Not sure what would have caused that. Without the switch, it's been working hunky dory. Did it go up in flames?
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Post by Telemachus on Feb 28, 2019 23:42:51 GMT
My curiosity got the better of me. Positive from the boat into Live in. Negative from the boat into Neutral in. Live out from the switch into Positive in on the router Neutral out from the switch into Negative in on the router. Flicked on the switch. All the lights went out. Flicked off the switch. All the lights came back on. Weird. Note that this cable is routed into the lighting circuit. Not sure what would have caused that. Without the switch, it's been working hunky dory. Sounds like you wired it up right. Has the router been fed from that same circuit before? Just wondering if there might be a high resistance connection (corroded fuse etc) that caused an excessive voltage drop when you loaded it up with the extra supply for the router.
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Post by Telemachus on Feb 28, 2019 23:44:27 GMT
I would suggest that a 20A switch has quite big screw connections. Have you ever poked a small wire designed for 1A, into a large screw connection designed for 20A, tightened it up and then found that the screw has entirely missed the wire, which can then easily be pulled out? In which case, sharing one connection with 2 wires (thus making it fatter) might be a better idea. Although admittedly the problem might recur on the positive side! Anyway, we don’t know where the connection between the router’s cable and the switch will be. Will the router be connected directly to the switch, or will it be more remote with additional wire? Who knows. But anyway the important point is that there is nothing electrically beneficial in using both poles, and some minor disadvantage. It may or may not be physically convenient to use the second pole as a physical connector. Sorry, I now realise I don’t know what I’m talking about. Not to worry, stick to giving advice on the tidal Trent and avoiding London bridges.
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Post by JohnV on Feb 28, 2019 23:45:54 GMT
My curiosity got the better of me. Positive from the boat into Live in. Negative from the boat into Neutral in. Live out from the switch into Positive in on the router Neutral out from the switch into Negative in on the router. Flicked on the switch. All the lights went out. Flicked off the switch. All the lights came back on. Weird. Note that this cable is routed into the lighting circuit. Not sure what would have caused that. Without the switch, it's been working hunky dory. Sounds like you wired it up right. Has the router been fed from that same circuit before? Just wondering if there might be a high resistance connection (corroded fuse etc) that caused an excessive voltage drop when you loaded it up with the extra supply for the router. good call especially if it is an LED lighting circuit
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Post by JohnV on Feb 28, 2019 23:47:46 GMT
Welly do you have a test meter .... even a basic one ?
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Post by Andyberg on Feb 28, 2019 23:52:13 GMT
Just a quick question.....WTF would anything non lighting be wired into the low draw lighting cct?....
Surely the clue is in the title..LIGHTING circuit, not ACCESSORY circuit.
( I think you've intercepted a 2 way switching lighting cct personally and its got bog all to do with overload!)
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 28, 2019 23:58:38 GMT
Sorry, I now realise I don’t know what I’m talking about. I know I'm a irritating, pompous old prat, but I was born that way, and there's nothing I can do about it. Never mind, Nick, you've got all those pillocks in the C&RT management who think the world of you thanks to the way you always stand up for them !
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Post by Telemachus on Feb 28, 2019 23:58:57 GMT
Just a quick question.....WTF would anything non lighting be wired into the low draw lighting cct?.... Surely the clue is in the title..LIGHTING circuit, not ACCESSORY circuit. ( I think you've intercepted a parallel switching lighting cct personally and its got bog all to do with overload!) At 1A (12w) it’s hardly outwith the design criteria of a lighting circuit. Not ideal from a purist’s point of view perhaps, but possibly pragmatic if it was the easiest way.
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Post by Telemachus on Mar 1, 2019 0:01:17 GMT
I know I'm a irritating, pompous old prat, but I was born that way, and there's nothing I can do about it. Never mind, Nick, you've got all those pillocks in the C&RT management who think the world of you thanks to the way you always stand up for them ! Haha well it takes one to know one! <anyway, fail on the impersonation. I would never say “a irritating”. I went to a proper school. Not dragged up in the back cabin of some working boat with the writing on the cans of spam and tinned peas as my only childhood literary input>
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