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Post by Mr Stabby on Feb 25, 2020 17:29:01 GMT
Well, you could try taking the pressure switch out of the one with the seized motor and putting it in the one that runs and see if that does anything. Not worth it. The 'workshop pump' is also old junk I suspect, and I don't even know what part of it all is the pressure switch. And new pump being ordered anyway. It is a shame that all the body and copper armature and stuff will just end up in landfill, when things like this could be repaired/renovated. What a waste of materials and time and work. I agree that it's probably not worth bothering with. If it helps in future, on a Jabsco pump, the pressure switch is beneath the blue cover at the end housing the inlet and outlet pipes. The bit I'm touching with the screwdriver in the third photo pushes in when the pump is pressurised and this turns the pump off. When a tap is turned on the pressure is relieved, the button pops out and the pump activates.
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Post by Mr Stabby on Feb 25, 2020 17:53:52 GMT
I'm not quite sure why it has been cabled up like that. I'm sure many of us have had to be "inventive" when faced with an electrical requirement for which we didn't have quite the right parts at the time, but a lot of that just seems totally unnecessary.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 18:06:57 GMT
I'm not quite sure why it has been cabled up like that. I'm sure many of us have had to be "inventive" when faced with an electrical requirement for which we didn't have quite the right parts at the time, but a lot of that just seems totally unnecessary. Maybe it was done by someone with no electrical skills or experience being 'talked through what to do' on the phone. What could possibly go wrong Rog
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Post by Mr Stabby on Feb 25, 2020 18:08:08 GMT
What's that little red thing where the engine should be?
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Post by Jim on Feb 25, 2020 18:10:48 GMT
Looks like it needs an oil change to me.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 18:17:04 GMT
It's wired like that because the previous batteries had the terminals arranged the other way around.
Slightly bizarre but I suppose it does the job. Would have been better to replace the heavy wires but maybe that was impractical or expensive.
Or get batteries with the same terminal layout.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 18:23:59 GMT
naughtyfox why didn't you get the BS scheme man who previously passed it to come back? Obviously with the modern trend of electronic copies it's a bit awkward to find out who it was but it might have been noted in the boat paperwork somewhere.
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Post by JohnV on Feb 25, 2020 18:30:11 GMT
With the battery wiring, it might "do the job" as a quick emergency bodge to get you out of trouble but it is pretty gross to leave it like that.
The best answer is to replace the cable with one of the correct length, the next best answer is a copper tube butt splice with heat shrink plus wrapping.
leaving something like that long term is asking for problems
(using a butt splice mean that you need a quality crimping tool that can do 25 or 35 mm cable ..... not a common tool)
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Post by duncan on Feb 25, 2020 18:33:02 GMT
I look forward to someone more knowledgeable than me coming up with a creditable reason why this has been done like this. I would have thought that both extension cables need removing and all the cables on the extension need to be transferred to the main post. seems simple enough.
I don't like the use of a brown cable on the negative side as brown should be positive. I would have thought the main reason for failing BSS should be that 2 of the positive terminals are not covered.
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Post by Jim on Feb 25, 2020 18:33:33 GMT
Here are those 'battery terminal spurs'. I am supposed to put the lot onto the terminal and not have those two branches up in the air. I don't know who did this as it is. A Twat? I don't even know what the problem is, boat has worked fine for almost 7 years with us like this. Ideally all your battery leads should be the same length, from common terminal blocks or junction boxes, - & +, then all your batteries get the same draw and charge.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2020 18:41:32 GMT
naughtyfox why didn't you get the BS scheme man who previously passed it to come back? Obviously with the modern trend of electronic copies it's a bit awkward to find out who it was but it might have been noted in the boat paperwork somewhere. I seem to remember Ross running his gob off about BSS passes that shouldn't have been due to shoddy work, something along the lines of shit inspectors ought to be publicly shamed. I wonder what approach naughtyfox will take over that bloody mess?
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Post by TonyDunkley on Feb 25, 2020 18:45:13 GMT
Here are those 'battery terminal spurs'. I am supposed to put the lot onto the terminal and not have those two branches up in the air. I don't know who did this as it is. A Twat? I don't even know what the problem is, boat has worked fine for almost 7 years with us like this. The two short links on the starter battery cables [the ones you've been told to get rid of] could originally have been for 2 x 6 volt starter batteries wired in series instead of the single 12 volt battery you've got now, or more likely [there being two short cable links rather than one] two much smaller 12 volt batteries in parallel. They definitely do need getting rid of, and that should really have been done when the existing single battery was swapped for the two. With the starter battery +ve terminal so close to the side of the steel battery box it would be as well to stick a sheet of rubber to the battery box side as insulation. Taking those links off and connecting the starter battery cables directly to the terminals is a straightforward enough job, and if you give me a ring on the number I posted earlier when you're ready to do it, I'll talk you through what needs to be done.
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Post by JohnV on Feb 25, 2020 18:49:12 GMT
Here are those 'battery terminal spurs'. I am supposed to put the lot onto the terminal and not have those two branches up in the air. I don't know who did this as it is. A Twat? I don't even know what the problem is, boat has worked fine for almost 7 years with us like this. Ideally all your battery leads should be the same length, from common terminal blocks or junction boxes, - & +, then all your batteries get the same draw and charge. Jim, don't pander to the battery pundits of the other channel They would have you using massive cables wired in fancy pattern that keep the wiring length accurate to within millimetres It's bollox ....... in theory they are completely correct but when you are dealing with the average boat it is totally irrelevant. With "Witchy and Foxy" with a very small charging rate and a minimal drain current it has even less importance.
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Post by JohnV on Feb 25, 2020 19:00:06 GMT
I wonder what approach naughtyfox will take over that bloody mess? I do think it is fuss about nothing and I wouldn't have bothered to have done anything. wired like that Ross it has the potential to cause problems (apart from anything else, the more connections in a circuit the more there are to work loose)
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Post by duncan on Feb 25, 2020 19:00:41 GMT
I would have thought the main reason for failing BSS should be that 2 of the positive terminals are not covered.
Covers were removed for inspection. And we have a rubber car mat that covers the batteries, all held down by ratchet strap. Fairy 'nuff
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