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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2022 17:05:42 GMT
Another approach might be to use a hand wire cable winch to put loads of tension on the existing belt just to see if it works.
Not a good option for long term use but could be interesting for testing the link belt setup.
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Post by kris on Sept 26, 2022 17:15:00 GMT
Another approach might be to use a hand wire cable winch to put loads of tension on the existing belt just to see if it works. Not a good option for long term use but could be interesting for testing the link belt setup. I’m not really impressed with this brammer belt, it seems to just keep stretching and stretching. Apparently the newer ones are better.
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Post by Jim on Sept 26, 2022 17:24:00 GMT
Another approach might be to use a hand wire cable winch to put loads of tension on the existing belt just to see if it works. Not a good option for long term use but could be interesting for testing the link belt setup. I’m not really impressed with this brammer belt, it seems to just keep stretching and stretching. Apparently the newer ones are better. In the olden days, so I was told, they used to use ladies hosiery in an emergency. Can you not cadge one of Shania's stockings. No need to take gearbox off to fit. Might need a good wash first🤮.
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 26, 2022 17:46:45 GMT
It was similar to the one Jim linked to earlier. M10 or M12 with eyes at both ends. I think a poly vee belt will run on the flat surface of the flywheel. With the ratio you mentioned previously it seems likely that the weakness will be the belt wrap on the alternator pulley. Interesting idea and I get that the flywheel has a big surface area around the circumference. However a polyvee belt isn’t designed to take the load only on the tips of the Vs so I doubt it would last long.
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 26, 2022 17:49:51 GMT
Another approach might be to use a hand wire cable winch to put loads of tension on the existing belt just to see if it works. Not a good option for long term use but could be interesting for testing the link belt setup. You want to avoid a setup that puts a lot of radial strain on the alternator bearings for not much friction. As to the screw jack thingy, it would be better to push the belt inwards (increase the belt wrap) rather than pull it outwards (decrease the belt wrap).
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Post by kris on Sept 26, 2022 18:03:48 GMT
Another approach might be to use a hand wire cable winch to put loads of tension on the existing belt just to see if it works. Not a good option for long term use but could be interesting for testing the link belt setup. You want to avoid a setup that puts a lot of radial strain on the alternator bearings for not much friction. As to the screw jack thingy, it would be better to push the belt inwards (increase the pulley wrap) rather than pull it outwards (decrease the belt wrap). so a tensioned wheel pushing the belt up?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2022 18:12:22 GMT
automatic tensioners have been standard on all internal combustion engine new vehicles for the serpentine/auxiliary belt. This is mainly because of the small package size and multiple auxiliary devices running off the same belt.
I don't know if there are automatic tensioners on older vee belt setups just for alternators.
A very strong spring and an additional pulley might be interesting things to play with.
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Post by kris on Sept 26, 2022 18:20:58 GMT
automatic tensioners have been standard on all internal combustion engine new vehicles for the serpentine/auxiliary belt. This is mainly because of the small package size and multiple auxiliary devices running off the same belt. I don't know if there are automatic tensioners on older vee belt setups just for alternators. A very strong spring and an additional pulley might be interesting things to play with. I am trying to keep the setup as simple as possible.
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Post by Jim on Sept 26, 2022 18:27:41 GMT
automatic tensioners have been standard on all internal combustion engine new vehicles for the serpentine/auxiliary belt. This is mainly because of the small package size and multiple auxiliary devices running off the same belt. I don't know if there are automatic tensioners on older vee belt setups just for alternators. A very strong spring and an additional pulley might be interesting things to play with. I am trying to keep the setup as simple as possible. A pivoting lever with wheel at one end and a weight (to suit) on the other.
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 26, 2022 18:30:55 GMT
automatic tensioners have been standard on all internal combustion engine new vehicles for the serpentine/auxiliary belt. This is mainly because of the small package size and multiple auxiliary devices running off the same belt. I don't know if there are automatic tensioners on older vee belt setups just for alternators. A very strong spring and an additional pulley might be interesting things to play with. I am trying to keep the setup as simple as possible. Surely the best way is the usual way, alternator is held on by a long bolt through the front and rear flanges, and the other front bolt hole is connected to a slotted arm to allow the alternator to pivot in and out for tensioning?
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Post by Telemachus on Sept 26, 2022 18:32:29 GMT
You want to avoid a setup that puts a lot of radial strain on the alternator bearings for not much friction. As to the screw jack thingy, it would be better to push the belt inwards (increase the pulley wrap) rather than pull it outwards (decrease the belt wrap). so a tensioned wheel pushing the belt up? Well up from underneath on the lower part of the belt or down from above on the upper part of the belt.
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Post by kris on Sept 26, 2022 18:33:16 GMT
I am trying to keep the setup as simple as possible. Surely the best way is the usual way, alternator is held on by a long bolt through the front and rear flanges, and the other front bolt hole is connected to a slotted arm to allow the alternator to pivot in and out for tensioning? That’s what I’ve got setup at the min. I’ll try the slightly bigger pulleys on the alternator first. If this doesn’t work then I’ll except I’ve got to unbolt the gearbox.
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Post by peterboat on Sept 27, 2022 7:30:46 GMT
Yes I used a bottle screw for this job once. You do need a real one not mickey mouse. Eta if you can change pulleys it might be worth putting on a polyvee type belt instead of a vee belt. I seem to recall that vee belt will go up to about 1.5kw so 100 amps at 15v whereas a polyvee will do double that happily and probably last a lot longer. Beta marine for example use a single vee belt for the standard (70a?) Alt and a polyvee for the 175a optional extra alternator (12v). They also have a nice threaded rod based tensioner for the big alt. Better would be a automatic tensioner like on cars, boat engines are out of the ark for good tech
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2022 7:36:06 GMT
Hi Peter. Nice to see you where have you been?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2022 7:38:03 GMT
Some marine engines like this VW unit are more advanced
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